bloc
SILVER Star
Makes sense. A lift in the front pulls the lower link bushing sleeve out of alignment and I think that’s where most of the trouble starting the bolt comes from.
Check Your Bushings and Swaybar Links!!! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Boston Mangler
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did you replace entire parts or just bushings? if bushings, what is best method to remove or punch out? thx in advance
Entire parts. One link has an integrated ball joint. The other link could just have the bushings pressed out but meh, by the time you add up the fuss of that it makes sense to just get the part which comes with the bushings installed. I don't think this was remotely needed at 140K and a bit of a waste of money at this mileage. Glad I did it but definitely not an urgent need at all.
Many thanks b/c I'm at 141K and suspension feels OK. However, I do want to tighten up the responsiveness and cornering which is why I might change shocks/struts and if so, change bushings.
- Thread starter
- #25
Entire Parts
When you price the cost of just the bushings, it’s not much more $ at all to buy the whole assemblies and also saves a bunch of headache
- Thread starter
- #26
Did you do the 3 turns of the KDSS valve to replace these or just do one at a time and maneuver them in place?
The rest of my bushings finally showed up yesterday and thinking I might tackle it today
I actually forgot to open the KDSS valves, so I had a big lean after I did the job. Cracked the valves open on level ground and it settled back out. Even with the valves closed it was pretty easy to maneuver everything. I started by disconnecting everything. Both ends. both brackets, then putting it back together in reverse order. At no point was anything difficult to replace or align.
- Thread starter
- #28
Thank you very much
Bringing this back to the top. As @Boston Mangler suggested, the bushings can get used hard on this truck. Probably true for any modern vehicle approaching 200k, but there's some bushings that take more wear than others.
Notably the rear upper trailing links. Took a closer at mine this weekend and they look similar to his. For context, my rig has 175k. Some good towing miles. Lots of fun crawling off-road regularly, fast desert running, and overlanding trips.
Rear upper control arm forward bushing
Rear upper control arm rear bushing
Notably the rear upper trailing links. Took a closer at mine this weekend and they look similar to his. For context, my rig has 175k. Some good towing miles. Lots of fun crawling off-road regularly, fast desert running, and overlanding trips.
Rear upper control arm forward bushing
Rear upper control arm rear bushing
- Thread starter
- #30
Holy Hell Man!
For context, mine looked perfectly fine while the truck sat at ride height. It wasn’t until I took mine out (replaced them simply because the ones in my 100 came out in pieces so I knew they wear) and put them in a vice to check them did I notice how cracked and toasted they were.
Glad you’re addressing this
Will likely notice a substantial difference
Superpro makes a complete OEM length arm with poly bushings. I went back and forth and eventually decided I wanted to keep the rubber for comfort reasons. But with your heavier use, maybe poly?
Good call on checking these!!
570s have track bars? Out of all the arms I took out and replaced, my trackbar was probably the worst, the bushings were literally split in half and detached from the sleeve, random FYI
Look close
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- Thread starter
- #32
Can do either
I just bought all the links with the bushings already installed.
For ME, wasn’t worth the headache and time involved to press out old bushings and press in new ones. I had a ton of things to get done on the truck in one weekend (with access to a lift) the bushings would of added considerable about of time, they’re more of a PITA than they look
The links aren’t that expensive if ya shop around. I believe I paid $125 or so each +/-
But for each is own of course
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I've often thought about replacing with the Superpro Polyurethane kit. Has anyone gone down that road? It's probably cheaper just to buy new Toyota arms with new bushings.
This is super helpful. My '10 LC has 150K and I'd like to replace all bushings and end links. Since the parts for all upper and lower control arms runs around $1300 I'd prefer to do replace just the bushings, end links, track bar and cushions. What would an independent mechanic charge for labor to replace all swaybar and control arm bushings, endlinks, and trackbar? Thx
I have seen 2 upper control arms break and both were on poly. Friends dont let friends run poly.
Also factory control arms and panhard bushing are encapsulated and will have a short life if not torqued at ride height. Meaning anytime your ride height changes you should loosen all the control arms and panhard and retorque at ride height.
Also factory control arms and panhard bushing are encapsulated and will have a short life if not torqued at ride height. Meaning anytime your ride height changes you should loosen all the control arms and panhard and retorque at ride height.
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And make sure you retorque resting on the ground, not while jacked up.
- Thread starter
- #39
That’s a slick option since they actually use OEM Toyota bushings
- Thread starter
- #40
I’m willing to bet tacos, it would end up being more expensive to pay someone else to press out and press in all those bushings versus having them replace complete units.
I’d BALLPARK 2-3 hours labor to press them all out and in. Ballparking labor $125/hr, ballpark cost $250-375. What’s the price difference between all new assemblies and just bushings? I know on the LCAs at least, the difference is minimal. Something to consider
I can see where people can save money doing it themselves if they have a press, time and patience, but paying someone an hourly rate to do it might get costly.
Encapsulated Toyota bushings can be a massive and royal pain to swap out, even with the proper tools and especially if ya live in a rust prone area. So time to replace will vary, and if your paying by hour, you could be up a creek sans paddle
We have a big fancy press and all the fittings for it here and after replacing the bushings of the LCAs on my Tundra, I swore I’d never bother doing that again, opting to buy the complete assemblies instead from now on
YMMV
