Charcoal Canister Needed - Which aftermarket one?

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The Vapor Canister I used was manufactured by Standard Motor Model No. CP3029 and sold by Autoplicity at a retail price of 139.27. Ok, it’s costly... but ruggedly all metal. I was able to use the original OEM Mounting Brackets by using EMAGNETS Adhesive backed tape (.60 mm thickness and 1” wide) applied to the top and bottom of the canaster in a thickness that equates the necessary difference beteween the old and new canaster diameter.
It’s a simple and very clean installation.
 
The Vapor Canister I used was manufactured by Standard Motor Model No. CP3029 and sold by Autoplicity at a retail price of 139.27. Ok, it’s costly... but ruggedly all metal. I was able to use the original OEM Mounting Brackets by using EMAGNETS Adhesive backed tape (.60 mm thickness and 1” wide) applied to the top and bottom of the canaster in a thickness that equates the necessary difference beteween the old and new canaster diameter.
It’s a simple and very clean installation.


FYI
While this seems to be the closest now to the OEM one. the price has gone up. They are about 185-220 depending on where you shop.
 
You’re Absolutely correct, Willard. UNBELIEVABLE, Huh! I bought my vapor canister just one year ago. There was a time when I bought (2) of everything when replacing a part to avoid obsolescence, ergo... horrendous price fluctuations. Even bought Cruiser parts when I knew I would eventually replace “down the road” as they say. Hence, I now have over a $12,000 inventory of mostly OEM/NOS parts in my garage. As both the Cruiser and I mature (over 30 years of cohabitation) I believe it’s time to let the next owner “maul” over these “long life” quality replacement parts and the never ending price inflation. I’d like to bequeth the Cruiser Goldmine to one of my Nephews but none of ‘em know the difference between a “ wrench” and a “Wench”! In the meantime...keep the faith! We’re in a new era of quality replacement parts with some still manufactured or remanufactured by original Toyota suppliers!
 
Showing available online at AutoZone for $48. If this one will work: https://www.autozone.com/engine-management/vapor-canister/duralast-vapor-canister/239708_0_0
Rock Auto - $57 https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/airtex/wells,4B1004,vapor+canister,5180
Would love to hear from anyone who has installed either of these to understand any mods required to make it work.

I just installed the one from autozone last week. The VC120. I have a 62. Like most on this thread, the VC120 is wider than the OEM one, so you have to figure out a way to mount it. I used wire ties to get the band around it, and really only bolted down 2 of the original bolts holding it to the compartment. At some point I'll just get some longer bolts with spacers and make this more secure. I also replaced the flexible fuel lines going from the canister to the VCV and from the VCV back to the tank and to the engine using standard lines from o-reilly. standard 1/4" line. Prestone makes a 2-foot length that works well (2 feet VCV to engine. cut another 2 foot length to handle the other parts). part number FU0104. My fuel tank pressure woes are now gone at the cost of about $60.
 
anyone here plumb one of these cannisters to just deal with the vapor vent line from the fuel tank only (rest of my I'm emissions stuff went away when I did an engine swap and I need an effective way to still vent the fuel tank and be "safe"...emissions not a factor where I live. IF so where did you attach the vapor vent hose coming off the fuel tank the terminates on the firewall ? I'm mainly just wanting to address the fuel tank vent line as noted...
 
Mine has a purge and tank nipple on it. I ran my tank line to the tank nipple and tee’d that with the carb vent line. The purge goes to the vcv. That’s how I dealt with going to a two nipple canister from the original three.
 
Elbert,
If venting the tank is your only need then a venting gas camp will work.
 
You’re Absolutely correct, Willard. UNBELIEVABLE, Huh! I bought my vapor canister just one year ago. There was a time when I bought (2) of everything when replacing a part to avoid obsolescence, ergo... horrendous price fluctuations. Even bought Cruiser parts when I knew I would eventually replace “down the road” as they say. Hence, I now have over a $12,000 inventory of mostly OEM/NOS parts in my garage. As both the Cruiser and I mature (over 30 years of cohabitation) I believe it’s time to let the next owner “maul” over these “long life” quality replacement parts and the never ending price inflation. I’d like to bequeth the Cruiser Goldmine to one of my Nephews but none of ‘em know the difference between a “ wrench” and a “Wench”! In the meantime...keep the faith! We’re in a new era of quality replacement parts with some still manufactured or remanufactured by original Toyota suppliers!

Do you have that inventory itemized and how do I take a tour, "American Pickers" style?
Or maybe I could just adopt you as my uncle?
:)
 
I would have paid more for a canister that fit easily in the existing bracket. Right now, my VC120 is tucked away in the corner of the engine bay.
 
Mine has a purge and tank nipple on it. I ran my tank line to the tank nipple and tee’d that with the carb vent line. The purge goes to the vcv. That’s how I dealt with going to a two nipple canister from the original three.

ok...thanks for the feedback
 
Elbert,
If venting the tank is your only need then a venting gas camp will work.

yea...maybe I just need to cap the vent line at the firewall and find a vented gas cap. Seems rather obvious :) I think I still have the OEM gas tank cap which I'm guessing is not vented...Never paid much attention to that.

since I'm on a roll here is another related question. Do the vented gas caps allow raw fuel to escape? I do drive my truck off road at times and would not be a fan of raw fuel coming out the cap on unusual vehicle angles. Off hand where to find a vented gas cap for the 60? I was web surfing and did not see one.
 
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I just finished my VC120 installation. Only used one of the brackets and had to slide it to the lower portion of the canister and mount it to the top set of mount holes so it didn't hit the wheel well. Long bolts to get the original bracket to close around the large replacement. All in all, happy with the results. No more pressure in the tank.
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I did the hose swap on my OEM canister about a year ago, and since this last winter I've been losing a lot of fuel through the tank cap. I've checked the gasket on it and everything seems kosher, so I'm wondering why it's belching out fuel. I need to go ahead and do the charcoal canister replacement and I'll get a new cap anyway since they're cheap. Hopefully one of these solves the issue because I would like for it to not be spewing gas when I start painting it.
 
I did the hose swap on my OEM canister about a year ago, and since this last winter I've been losing a lot of fuel through the tank cap. I've checked the gasket on it and everything seems kosher, so I'm wondering why it's belching out fuel. I need to go ahead and do the charcoal canister replacement and I'll get a new cap anyway since they're cheap. Hopefully one of these solves the issue because I would like for it to not be spewing gas when I start painting it.

So, how'd it go?
 
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