Charcoal Canister Modification- need help (7 Viewers)

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packed it in and jb weld shut.

I wish it had a screw-top, it would make service so easy. If anyone comes across a can like this, please PM me. I would like to have something reusable

What about using some FIPG and JB welding some of the latches on there similar to the tuna catch can or the air filter? You might need to add a ring on the outside to keep it from shifting, but would be easy to do.

Would seal it shut and make PM fairly easy to do.

Heck, if you did that you probably wouldn't even need the FIPG...
 
Heck, if you did that you probably wouldn't even need the FIPG...

I believe he will need some type of gasket material. The canister should be able to handle both pressure and vacuum.

-B-
 
Firsttoy -

Did you just cut the top off with a saw near the flange? No explosions I assume!

I took my canister out last week as I have high pressure in my gas tank. The check valves did not pass the FSM test of 1psi and something less than 1psi. So I wanted to get in there and clean the check valves, but I didn't see a way to get inside without chopping it.

Are you comfortable with the JB Weld securing the top?

Thanks - great post!
 
yes just used a cutting wheel. quick.
if you cut right under the lip, it would be cleaner. power sand the paint off first so the jb (or whatever you use) can stick to the metal.

you can clean out the valves with brake cleaner or some spray cleaner. to open that mechanism, you have to drill out the rivits but I wouldn't recommend it. It would probably have some delecate springs to hold those ball bearings and would be pretty tough to get it all back. I think just cleaning would be the same.

I don't know what the pressure is in the can but with the bottom tube open to the air, there is no way for pressure or suction to build so I think the jbweld will hold. we will see.

i think the engine heat would break down the jbweld before anything else
 
Hows this holding up for you so far??

I have been noticing (the last 2 times) I went up into the mountains that I get a very strong gas smell and when I pop the gas cap it will vent for (no joke!!) at least 5 minutes. Thats going from 2500' to nearly 8000' on 100+ degree days in less than 1 hour. With that much pressure I guess my gas tank looked like a football. I won't be leaving the valley again until I fix this.

This evening I removed the canister and tested it according to FSM. It failed. While I was at it I also tested the VCV and the check valve just after it. Both passed no problem. I'll be calling Dan in the a.m. for a new canister. I gather it's $$.
 
Alvin,
it works fine driving around. no fuel smell, no pressure from the tank. I have not gone offroading/altitude to really get the fumes going but so far so good.
I'm sure you can figure out a better way to seal it than my booty jb weld (if you do, post it up so i can copy it ;) )

OEM CC is $200-350
 
I'll probably wuss out on the booty-fab cure for the bad canister. I was planning on going up the mountain this weekend, but now maybe not. I need to fix this first. It really freaked me out how long it took the gas tank to stop releasing pressure when I pulled the gas cap.
 
I'll probably wuss out on the booty-fab cure for the bad canister. I was planning on going up the mountain this weekend, but now maybe not. I need to fix this first. It really freaked me out how long it took the gas tank to stop releasing pressure when I pulled the gas cap.


Is this a significant sign that the CC is bad? If so I am pretty sure I have a bad one because my gas tank has always taken a long time to release pressure. I never really thought anything of it.

After doing some reading on CC's I do recall that I did smell fuel the other day, but it was subtle enough I was able to track it down and I didn't think to check the CC.


Any updates on how the Booty-fab/aquarium charcoal canister is holding up? 300 bones is a little steep for a new one if I can remedy the old one.
 
It's going fine nicholas,
no fuel smell and no backpressure. it's working fine.

I should have drilled some holes into the can to give the JBWeld a mechanical grip but it seems to be holding fine so far.

I wouldn't freak out about it if the smell isn't strong, just stop overfilling your tank. Mine was noticable and strong (I think a combo of sloshing around, heat and altitude change).
 
If your vehicle is desmoged, do you need the charcoal canister?:confused:
 
If your vehicle is desmoged, do you need the charcoal canister?:confused:

The canister doesn't have anything to do with smog.

It's mostly to prevent too much pressure in the tank.
 
I've been reading but I still don't quite understand what the charcoal canister does. When I stopped my truck today (I filled it earlier today too) when I got home, I noticed gas dripping just to the inside of my front DS tire.

I opened the hood and saw that it was coming from under the canister. I removed the canister and the plastic fitting that comes out of the bottom was broken and that was where the fuel was coming from.

Can someone school me on what I should do about this?
 
You should repair or replace the charcoal canister.

Repairing will be problematic because (as you see) the repaired area might be exposed to petrol. I would try JB Weld if a repair was attempted.

You can buy a new one from Cruiserdan. They are expensive. If cost is a barrier then look to a salvage yard because other Toyotas used the same or a similar charcoal canister.

-B-
 
to add to Beo's post,

I would also check the rubber formed hoses that go to the CC. They may be old and clogged/leaking/cracked so don't just zero in on the CC. Look at the whole thing.

I'm happy to report the JBWeld is holding up from the snowy, freezing temps; wheeling and big altitude changes. I think it's just a no-brainer to try it and buck up $12 if you think the CC is the problem.

Beo, if you come across any screw top container or something suitable from another vehicle, please PM or email me! thanks :cheers:
 
It was definitely coming out of the bottom. THe other hoses are old but aren't leaking. THe one on the bottom is only about a foot or two long and doesn't lead to anything.
Do you think I ruined the canister by overfilling the gas tank?

I have read a couple of discussions (can't remember whether from this forum). But the general consensus is that overfilling the gas tank is bad for the canister.
 
what I'm saying is that the other lines might be clogged, thus contributing to the problem-- just a brainstorm-- basically, look at the whole thing and don't assume it's the CC just because that is where you see the problem.

The charcoal does get saturated and ineffective by overfilling- that's one reason why all vehicles say don't overfill= No room for vapors. they either go out the gas fill or saturate the CC and emissions system. I think the gas fill is about the same level as the CC? So if you fill it to the neck, it's gotta equalize somewhere at the CC end.... and that is designed for vapor, not for the liquid fuel.

The bottom line actually sucks in fresh air but if you are oversaturated, of course fuel will spill out. That's a lot of fuel since it has to make it's way thru all the charcoal.

I *think* maybe several things or a combination of these:
1. there are two ball bearing check valves at the top of the CC. The exit valve may be stuck shut, giving the fuel vapor no where to go but down

2. the fresh air inlet (at the bottom-where you see fuel leaking) is clogged up w/ dirt, not letting enough air in to properly allow the CC to work

3. the charcoal is completely saturated and ineffective in absorbing the vapor (pretty safe bet this is the case w/ the charcoal at this point)

note that the CC is very simple. the only moving parts are the two check valves at the top.
also note that I am no expert! :) so maybe people can explain the system better, i don't know the extent of it.
 
I removed the canister and the plastic fitting that comes out of the bottom was broken and that was where the fuel was coming from.

You say the plastic fitting is broken. Can you post a picture so we can see what you are talking about?

-B-
 
You say the plastic fitting is broken. Can you post a picture so we can see what you are talking about?

-B-

yes, I will tomorrow. I don't have my camera handy at the moment. ...it's basically just the plastic/rubber hose fitting that attaches the longer hose to the bottom of the canister. This fitting attaches to a small plate that uses 2 small (7mm I think) machine screws to attach it to the bottom of the canister itself.
 
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it sounds like you're vent line fitting is broken but I don't understand how that can be the actual culprit. Scratching my head on this one!
 

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