Changing the Carburator 1973 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 12, 2019
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8
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Location
Great Falls, Montana
What is the best carburator upgrade that isn't a Weber? I saw a rochester on a 1963 FJ and was thinking this has got be cheaper yet dependable. More importantly not the hunk of junk japanese carb on it.
 
Second on the stock rebuilt. Years ago I removed the Weber that was on my truck and replaced it with a Mark A carb. Stock rebuild is the only way to go with the F/2F.
 
Mark Algazy owns Mark's Off Road. He's an Aisan carburetor guy. He can dial your carb in if you haven't already smashed it with a double jack;)

Check your vacuum at idle. Should be 18ish on a warmed up engine.
 
The engine hesitates off the line I must reeve it up to get it moving. It appears too complicated for such a simple engine

Could easily be a timing issue. 50% of carb problems are really electrical problems...
 
Thanks for the props guys. Happy to help. 818-953-9230.
 
is this a US spec rig?
what have you done up to this point?
 
What is the best carburator upgrade that isn't a Weber? I saw a rochester on a 1963 FJ and was thinking this has got be cheaper yet dependable. More importantly not the hunk of junk japanese carb on it.


i will 2nd and 3rd mark at marks off road in Burbank


he Speaks OLD Skool ...........

1963 Factory Carburetors

this is your best Path forward ...............

:wrench::D
 
is this a US spec rig?
what have you done up to this point?
The wires from the coolant senders to the carb were shorting so I repaired them hoping it might help the hesitation at start off and get my temp gage to work but without result. I also have replaced the voltage regulator and alternator but that was because both were worn out. I noticed the carb was in need of work but I have never seen so many moving parts for what is basically old school in-line 6 from GM. Now I am hearing removing the Japenese carb is not the answer???? I also have a new distributor electronic instead of points with a new coil. I plan to replace it next to see if the helps. The motor idles and runs great except when starting out coughs and hesitates. You are in Helena? Do you work on these old Crusiers?
 
The wires from the coolant senders to the carb were shorting so I repaired them hoping it might help the hesitation at start off and get my temp gage to work but without result. I also have replaced the voltage regulator and alternator but that was because both were worn out. I noticed the carb was in need of work but I have never seen so many moving parts for what is basically old school in-line 6 from GM. Now I am hearing removing the Japenese carb is not the answer???? I also have a new distributor electronic instead of points with a new coil. I plan to replace it next to see if the helps. The motor idles and runs great except when starting out coughs and hesitates. You are in Helena? Do you work on these old Crusiers?


there shouldn't be wires between the coolant sensor and carb?? coolant sensor should be a single wire, if there is a solenoid on the carb, I can't remember but I'm thinking it is a single wire also. but they should not be connected to each other.

Yes, I do work on Landcruisers on the side, as my schedule allows, and I am in Helena.
 
I think he means they come out of the harness in the same place.

As far as the carb goes, yes it is complicated compared to some. If you want knuckle-dragger simple, I recommend a Rochester 2Jet. They have all the finesse of a toilet bowl. I've rebuilt a few of those over the years for people who are very happy to keep using them. :meh:
 
there shouldn't be wires between the coolant sensor and carb?? coolant sensor should be a single wire, if there is a solenoid on the carb, I can't remember but I'm thinking it is a single wire also. but they should not be connected to each other.

Yes, I do work on Landcruisers on the side, as my schedule allows, and I am in Helena.
Thanks. I live in Great Falls. I am going to try and sort this out on my own. It is a retirement project that has been on my bucket list but it has been awhile since I have done any mechanicing. By the way the wire to the soleniod comes from what looks like a sensor attached to the head. It is a single wire. I bet when i get a timing light on it I find that to be at least part of the problem.
 
the solenoid just affects idle, it shouldn't affect acceleration. that could be a non working accelerator pump among other things
 

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