changing the belts (1 Viewer)

[Michael Browning]

I have to change the belts on my 90 FJ62.

I have been looking it over, I don't have a manual, but it seems like I cannot get to the adjustment pulleys. Also, the alternator does not have enough range of motion to get the new belt on....

Do I need to pull the radiator? The power steering pump etc..????

Help!

I cannot believe it is not easier than it is......

Mike

 

[Wile E Coyote]

The pulleys can be reached just as it sits right now, w/o pulling anything. I reach the adjustment on one of the two idler pulleys from below, the other's access might be improved w/ pulling the battery, but is doable if left in place.
If the new belt won't fit, then you'll simply have to get that idler adjusted further out. Take a fresh look at it.

Here's a poor replacement for an FSM, but it could help ya:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=173224&highlight=fsm

 

[rfj62]

Hey, you should not have to remove any of those items. Here is how I whould change the belts, I'm going from memory but I think its accurate.

First I would lossen the two bolts (14mm) that hold the power steering pump in place, just loosen them and the PSP should slide down to the one side.

Next remove the brace that holds the alternator to the air pump, one bolt and one nut, both 12mm. Then loosen the other bolt that holds the air pump (14mm on front). This should cause the pump to slid down. The main belt should be now loose enough so you can easily get a 12mm wrench in to remove the 4 nuts that hold the fan to the pully. Not sure if you need to do this but I found it easier to get to everything and it only takes a minute to remove the fan.

With the fan removed it is easy to get to the other belts. Loosen up the ac belt pully and it should easily come off. Sometimes the alternator belt can be a little tighter and harder to remove and install. To make it easier you might want to remove the alternator, this only takes a minute to do, just remove the one through bolt (14mm) and the two bolts that hold the alt to the tensioner plate. You will easily be able to remove and install the alt belt this way. It is a good idea to loosen the idler pulley at this time since there is notheng in the way.
I would install and properly tension the ac belt first since it goes in the back and the botton. Then position the other belts in place, and then reinstall the alt to its brackets. Install the fan to the pulley and retighten n the nuts. After the fan is back on and the belts are in place (still lose though), adjust the alt belt properly by using the alt adjustment bracket.
At this point you should have two out of the three belts tight (the ac belt and the alt belt). Now install the brace that holds the air pump in place between the alt. Next pull up on the PSP and retighten the bolts that hold the PSP in place. The only thin left to do is tighten the belt by adjusting the idler pulley.

 

[Michael Browning]

Will do....thanks for the help....

Mike

 

[agent orange]

Hey, you should not have to remove any of those items. Here is how I whould change the belts, I'm going from memory but I think its accurate.

First I would lossen the two bolts (14mm) that hold the power steering pump in place, just loosen them and the PSP should slide down to the one side.

Next remove the brace that holds the alternator to the air pump, one bolt and one nut, both 12mm. Then loosen the other bolt that holds the air pump (14mm on front). This should cause the pump to slid down. The main belt should be now loose enough so you can easily get a 12mm wrench in to remove the 4 nuts that hold the fan to the pully. Not sure if you need to do this but I found it easier to get to everything and it only takes a minute to remove the fan.

With the fan removed it is easy to get to the other belts. Loosen up the ac belt pully and it should easily come off. Sometimes the alternator belt can be a little tighter and harder to remove and install. To make it easier you might want to remove the alternator, this only takes a minute to do, just remove the one through bolt (14mm) and the two bolts that hold the alt to the tensioner plate. You will easily be able to remove and install the alt belt this way. It is a good idea to loosen the idler pulley at this time since there is notheng in the way.
I would install and properly tension the ac belt first since it goes in the back and the botton. Then position the other belts in place, and then reinstall the alt to its brackets. Install the fan to the pulley and retighten n the nuts. After the fan is back on and the belts are in place (still lose though), adjust the alt belt properly by using the alt adjustment bracket.


At this point you should have two out of the three belts tight (the ac belt and the alt belt). Now install the brace that holds the air pump in place between the alt. Next pull up on the PSP and retighten the bolts that hold the PSP in place. The only thin left to do is tighten the belt by adjusting the idler pulley.

Yup, thats how its done. Its even nicer when you can yank the top half of your fan shroud out.

 

[jmstu76]

Hey, you should not have to remove any of those items. Here is how I whould change the belts, I'm going from memory but I think its accurate.

First I would lossen the two bolts (14mm) that hold the power steering pump in place, just loosen them and the PSP should slide down to the one side.

Next remove the brace that holds the alternator to the air pump, one bolt and one nut, both 12mm. Then loosen the other bolt that holds the air pump (14mm on front). This should cause the pump to slid down. The main belt should be now loose enough so you can easily get a 12mm wrench in to remove the 4 nuts that hold the fan to the pully. Not sure if you need to do this but I found it easier to get to everything and it only takes a minute to remove the fan.

With the fan removed it is easy to get to the other belts. Loosen up the ac belt pully and it should easily come off. Sometimes the alternator belt can be a little tighter and harder to remove and install. To make it easier you might want to remove the alternator, this only takes a minute to do, just remove the one through bolt (14mm) and the two bolts that hold the alt to the tensioner plate. You will easily be able to remove and install the alt belt this way. It is a good idea to loosen the idler pulley at this time since there is notheng in the way.
I would install and properly tension the ac belt first since it goes in the back and the botton. Then position the other belts in place, and then reinstall the alt to its brackets. Install the fan to the pulley and retighten n the nuts. After the fan is back on and the belts are in place (still lose though), adjust the alt belt properly by using the alt adjustment bracket.
At this point you should have two out of the three belts tight (the ac belt and the alt belt). Now install the brace that holds the air pump in place between the alt. Next pull up on the PSP and retighten the bolts that hold the PSP in place. The only thin left to do is tighten the belt by adjusting the idler pulley.

I'm also in the middle of a belt change on my '89 62. I have the PS/Air Pump belt off and I have the water pump/Alt. belt off. Both Idler pulleys were maxed out on the tension and non Toyota belts are on the truck. I am having a really hard time fitting any type of wrench to access the AC idler pulley. The PS bracket seems to cover most of the head of that bolt. Any imput on how to access that adjustment bolt and with which tool??

Also, reading what I quoted above, he makes it sound easy to remove the fan. I have a new Aisin fan clutch that I would like to put in at this time too. Is he talking about talking the fan and clutch loose from the water pump as one unit??

My fan shroud is not split so I still have the fan and clutch tightly mounted to the water pump and the shroud, all though loose, is banging around getting in my way constantly.

Any helpful tips would greatly be appreciated.

So to recap, Alt is loose, air pump is loose, battery is out, shroud is loose, PS pump is loose. I am able to access the PS pump idler pulley. Cannot access the adjustment bolt on the AC idler pulley (I believe than adjustment bolt runs vertically..) and the AC belt is still firmly in place.

 

[SmartyPants]

62 must be a bit different than the 60 in the belt department, because it only took me 10 minutes to remove and replace all the belts on my 60. Just loosened the a/c compressor, smog pump and alternator and all belts came right off. I just slipped them over the fan to get them out. Reverse to install. In fact I considered it the easiest belt change I have ever done on any of my vehicles.

Good luck

 

[jmstu76]

62 must be a bit different than the 60 in the belt department, because it only took me 10 minutes to remove and replace all the belts on my 60. Just loosened the a/c compressor, smog pump and alternator and all belts came right off. I just slipped them over the fan to get them out. Reverse to install. In fact I considered it the easiest belt change I have ever done on any of my vehicles.

Good luck

Sorry Smartypants,
60's and 62 belts are very different. The AC compressor does not pivot on a 62 and it uses an adjustable idler pulley to tighten the belt. PS pumps is on the Passenger side and alternator is below the smog pump on the drivers side. Alt has both large belts running over it. Take my word, different cats.

That being said. I was able to remove the AC belt last night. I did it by taking the idler pulley off.

I do not have a nut on the bottom of my AC adjustment pulley as shown on the last post in this thread.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/67573-changing-water-pump-help.html

Believe me I have been searching like crazy.

At this point, I think I'm going to have to pull the Power steering pump and bracket from the block to access the top of the bolt used to adjust the AC pulley. It could be a non stock bolt that is
A. too long
B. has too big a head on it for any wrench to fit coming from the side.

Any thoughts?

 

[jmstu76]

Ok. So I have concluded that I need to remove the power steering bracket to access the head of the AC belt tensioner. I had three bolts off the bracket and it wouldn't budge. After searching the FSM. I concluded there were 4 bolts that hold the power steering bracket to the block. The 4th bolt is a shared bolt with the power steering bracket and the AC compressor bracket. That lady bolt was even more difficult to access than the others. After the power steering bracket was moved with pump attached. I had access to the head of the tensioner bolt. And last night my new Toyota AC belt was fitted and tightened.

I would really like to remove the fan clutch combo before I reassemble any more. Any tips on cracking loose the 4 nuts that hold the clutch to the water pump without a belt to prevent it from spinning?

Here are some pics to show you what I was looking at.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

This is the idler pulley adjuster viewed from below (flex magnet reacher is attached to the bolt head). You're saying your 62 with a gas motor does not have said adjuster?

 

[jmstu76]

It has that adjuster but is just a bolt. No nut on the bottom. Nothing but threads from below. I was able to back the tensioner down with my hands once the belt was off but I don't see a way to tighten it from below. I could have a non OEM bolt on there though. Not sure. I agree you can access and see the tensioner bolt from below but I don't understand how you would tighten the belt from that vantage point.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

It has that adjuster but is just a bolt. No nut on the bottom. Nothing but threads from below. I was able to back the tensioner down with my hands once the belt was off but I don't see a way to tighten it from below. I could have a non OEM bolt on there though. Not sure. I agree you can access and see the tensioner bolt from below but I don't understand how you would tighten the belt from that vantage point.

If I understand, then what happened was the bolt head was sheared off when it was frozen from rust or they didn't realize the bolt in the center of the pulley needed loosening first. There's nothing special about the adjuster bolt, so a generic replacement of proper length could be found. It would make proper tensioning and further work 'more gooder' next time.


As far as the fan clutch bolts, I've just been able to hold the fan by hand while cracking loose the 4 bolts.
Edit: Also, try a strap wrench around the pulley.

 

[jpsfj60]

Ok. So I have concluded that I need to remove the power steering bracket to access the head of the AC belt tensioner. I had three bolts off the bracket and it wouldn't budge. After searching the FSM. I concluded there were 4 bolts that hold the power steering bracket to the block. The 4th bolt is a shared bolt with the power steering bracket and the AC compressor bracket. That lady bolt was even more difficult to access than the others. After the power steering bracket was moved with pump attached. I had access to the head of the tensioner bolt. And last night my new Toyota AC belt was fitted and tightened.

I would really like to remove the fan clutch combo before I reassemble any more. Any tips on cracking loose the 4 nuts that hold the clutch to the water pump without a belt to prevent it from spinning?

Here are some pics to show you what I was looking at.

That Pic is not right!! THERE should be 2 nuts on the top and you
loosen them and adjust from underneath the truck. ITs a 14mm bolt that will move the pulley up and down. Loosen the 14mm bolt on the pulley 1st. I will post pics up tommorrow as i tear down my spare 3FE motor.

 

[jmstu76]

I would love to see a pic of how this is supposed to be set up. When the tensioner pulley failed, compressor bearings go or the belt shreds, I'll probably just cry...

 

[jpsfj60]

Ok. So I have concluded that I need to remove the power steering bracket to access the head of the AC belt tensioner. I had three bolts off the bracket and it wouldn't budge. After searching the FSM. I concluded there were 4 bolts that hold the power steering bracket to the block. The 4th bolt is a shared bolt with the power steering bracket and the AC compressor bracket. That lady bolt was even more difficult to access than the others. After the power steering bracket was moved with pump attached. I had access to the head of the tensioner bolt. And last night my new Toyota AC belt was fitted and tightened.

I would really like to remove the fan clutch combo before I reassemble any more. Any tips on cracking loose the 4 nuts that hold the clutch to the water pump without a belt to prevent it from spinning?

Here are some pics to show you what I was looking at.

I would love to see a pic of how this is supposed to be set up. When the tensioner pulley failed, compressor bearings go or the belt shreds, I'll probably just cry...

I will get those pics tom. for ya. I also have the part # for that bolt and nut but you cant get the other nut that goes on top and acts as a lock nut. Dont know why TOYOTA did it this way.
I learned the hard way cause i couldn't see that it was double
nutted and i broke the bolt trying to back it off from underneath the truck. You can get to it real easy from underneath the rig.

 

[jmstu76]

Pics and part numbers would be great!

 

[jmstu76]

This is the idler pulley adjuster viewed from below (flex magnet reacher is attached to the bolt head). You're saying your 62 with a gas motor does not have said adjuster?

Looks like my adjustment bolt is in upside down.

 

[jpsfj60]

Looks like my adjustment bolt is in upside down.

Yes it is upside down. But now you are missing the 2 nuts for
the top of it. One of the nuts is flared and sits into that bracket and spins. The other nut is that nut that goes on top and acts like a lock nut. With bolt truned around you can adjust from botton and don't have to remove PS bracket and pump. I don't
remove anything except smog and thats if i am going to take out my alternator.

 

[jpsfj60]

Pics of the double nut

Ok Here are those pics i was talking about. This is my
back up 3FE motor that i thought was good untill today!!!

 

[jpsfj60]

HERE are some extras!!