How's it going. I did some searching on here but did not find much on changing spark plugs. I am new to attempting to do my own maintenance on the my Cruiser so bare with me and my questions. I have a 94 and I just purchased the spark plugs from Toyota, Denso plugs. This will be my first time changing the plugs in a Land Cruiser. I am told the plugs come gapped, but I know I should check the gap, can someone tell me the correct gap for the 94. Last question, is there a DIY on how to do this properly? I don't want risk screwing anything else up? I mean it seems pretty cut and dry but I don't want to create other problems. It also looks like I have to remove the air intake unit to get to the rear plugs, right?Thanks
Changing Spark Plugs (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LACRUISERGUY
- Start date
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Yes, you should always check the gap. I don't have my manual right now so I don't know what it is.
Your truck may or may not have the plastic cover over the valve cover. Remove it.
Remove the air intake.
Carefully pull the spark plug wires. If they are old you should consider replacing them with the spark plugs.
Pull the spark plugs. There is a tool in the tool bag that works great for the #6.
Put the new spark plugs in. and reverse everything.
Your truck may or may not have the plastic cover over the valve cover. Remove it.
Remove the air intake.
Carefully pull the spark plug wires. If they are old you should consider replacing them with the spark plugs.
Pull the spark plugs. There is a tool in the tool bag that works great for the #6.
Put the new spark plugs in. and reverse everything.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks Frankencruiser, as I read your reply, I did another search and found a thread on plug gap for 94 to.31, and that I should also use anti-seize on the threads. Okay, never used this stuff before but I am sure I can pick it up at the auto parts.
definitely use anti-seize. I should have mentioned that. just a dab on the threads, and next time you pull the plugs they will come out much better.
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks, picking up anti-seize now. What about dieelectric, is it needed?
It is also a good idea. Keeps the plug wires from getting stuck.
Be gentle on the #6 plug, it's a pain in the R#$%!
93yotasr5
Come and take it
and also extra protection from water and moisture.
- Thread starter
- #10
Well the plugs are done. #6 was a pain as I was warned. It took me about 20 minutes alone to just get the plug wire out. I didn't know if would be okay to try and undo the hose connections that sit right above #6 so I didn't chance it, and it was tough. I very carefully slid out the #6 wire, but I was worried it would break. Just reaching back there is tough and it was getting harder as I got to #4.
I was on a step stool, and I made sure I didn't place any of my weight on the radiator or anything else. And having a messed up lower back doesn't help, but I managed and got it done. The other pain was putting back on the big air intake connection since i removed it to have better access.
Started up the cruiser and it sounds strong so Im thinking all turned out okay.
Thanks for the responses and tips and it does feel good to do something like this myself, not to mention I saved myself $198 bucks which is what the dealer wanted to charge to install the plugs.
I'll see what I tackle next.
I was on a step stool, and I made sure I didn't place any of my weight on the radiator or anything else. And having a messed up lower back doesn't help, but I managed and got it done. The other pain was putting back on the big air intake connection since i removed it to have better access.
Started up the cruiser and it sounds strong so Im thinking all turned out okay.
Thanks for the responses and tips and it does feel good to do something like this myself, not to mention I saved myself $198 bucks which is what the dealer wanted to charge to install the plugs.
I'll see what I tackle next.
As a noob here myself...it's great to find free advice on here! (As in plug/wire #6)
Thanks!
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #12
So I took the cruiser for a drive on the freeway and it does feels good especially after the engine has been warmed up for a bit.
But I have been noticing now for a few weeks on cold start ups the truck feels shaky, and stuttering a little bit.. The RPM's are usually lower than where they would be if the engine was warmed up and running for a while and I figure this is normal on cold start ups, is this a correct assumption?
I ask because now after changing the plugs the stuttering and shaking was stronger this time, especially when I was stopped at a red light. The truck was cold since it had been sitting all day. But after I drove on the freeway for about 10 miles and it was warmed up it feels good and strong. Take offs are strong as well.
If what I described on cold start ups it not to be expected, any suggestions on what I should check next?
But I have been noticing now for a few weeks on cold start ups the truck feels shaky, and stuttering a little bit.. The RPM's are usually lower than where they would be if the engine was warmed up and running for a while and I figure this is normal on cold start ups, is this a correct assumption?
I ask because now after changing the plugs the stuttering and shaking was stronger this time, especially when I was stopped at a red light. The truck was cold since it had been sitting all day. But after I drove on the freeway for about 10 miles and it was warmed up it feels good and strong. Take offs are strong as well.
If what I described on cold start ups it not to be expected, any suggestions on what I should check next?
Possibly a vacuum hose came loose or is cracked. Do a thorough inspection of all possible vacuum hoses and the PVC and brake booster vacuum hoses.
I used a spark plug boot puller and made life easy
http://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...JU/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1321823408&sr=8-14
This made getting the #6 spark plug boot super easy as well as the rest of the spark plug boots.
$7 at O'Reilly Auto Parts, well worth it!
http://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...JU/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1321823408&sr=8-14
This made getting the #6 spark plug boot super easy as well as the rest of the spark plug boots.
$7 at O'Reilly Auto Parts, well worth it!
- Thread starter
- #15
So I bit the bullet and dropped the cruiser off to a toyota mechanic I know who has experience with working on the Cruisers. Reason is the cold start rough idle just got worse. I don't think its a result of me changing the spark plugs since this was happening before I changed them, but not as bad as now. I checked all the vacuum hoses and other hoses and none of the hose appear to be damaged. But since I was new to working on my own Cruiser its possible I overlooked something.
The mechanic called me this morning and he reports the problem to be extensive carbon build-up in the throttle body housing unit. So, the exterior/interior of the throttle body housing needs a thorough cleaning. So, I gave him the go ahead to do this.
The mechanic called me this morning and he reports the problem to be extensive carbon build-up in the throttle body housing unit. So, the exterior/interior of the throttle body housing needs a thorough cleaning. So, I gave him the go ahead to do this.
Also consider that the "big" intake hose can get brittle/dry and crack, it may not be easily visible on the truck, but can cause rough/idle problems. Removing/installing the hose without care, can increase the chance it will crack. Movement of the engine/body can exacerbate the rough running, by moving the hose and opening/closing the crack in the hose. ALso if the spark plug wires are original, they should be replaced with new OEM at this age. They can cause rough running/idle as well.
- Thread starter
- #17
Thanks Ben. The big round intake hose is new, I just had it put on two months ago, but I will admit that taking it off was a piece of cake. Putting it back on was not so easy. I did my best to be patient and not forceful but this sucker did not want to easily go back on and I was worried that I may have damaged it. I don't think I did and the mechanic did not say it was damaged, but I am still keeping my fingers crossed!
Your hose is probably fine, in that case.
this might help for #6
In the pic you can see the combination I used to pull/change infamous spark plug #6. The key feature here is the wobble extension just above the spark plug socket.
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more
This wobble extension kept me from putting a potentially dangerous side load on the plug while removing and installing (considering the universal-joint). And it put the universal joint at just the correct extension height above the valve cover and below the heater hose tubes.
It worked really slick.
In the pic you can see the combination I used to pull/change infamous spark plug #6. The key feature here is the wobble extension just above the spark plug socket.
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more
This wobble extension kept me from putting a potentially dangerous side load on the plug while removing and installing (considering the universal-joint). And it put the universal joint at just the correct extension height above the valve cover and below the heater hose tubes.
It worked really slick.
