Cel not on (1 Viewer)

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Does it run?
 
2nd guess; dash bulb for the CEL burnt out perhaps?
 
Is it easy to check and remove the dash?
No light even on jumping wires
Thanks
 
Is it easy to check and remove the dash?
No light even on jumping wires
Thanks
Its not too bad. Just some screws and clips. Watch the plastic pieces when removing as there trucks are getting older the plastic bits get brittle.
 
Thanks for reply
Whats the best way to check those fusible links
Given your truck runs, I don't that is the issue. If the fuses were blown, probably wouldn't start. But to answer your question a good digital multi meter would be the tool to test the circuits for power and continuity.
 
Given your truck runs, I don't that is the issue. If the fuses were blown, probably wouldn't start. But to answer your question a good digital multi meter would be the tool to test the circuits for power and continuity.
 
Is using test lights the same connecting to diagnostic pins e1 to t1, would that give me a code reading
Thanks
 
Thanks for reply
Whats the best way to check those fusible links

for the cost your just better off replacing, i think i got a new set for about 12$. as stated above their probably fine but its possible to get corrosion in the wires that can be hidden by the wire insulation.

i dont know if using a test light would give the codes by flashing out, but it might
 
Is using test lights the same connecting to diagnostic pins e1 to t1, would that give me a code reading
Thanks
Not likely. The diagnostic output is the flashing of the CHECK ENGINE light. Shorting TE1 to E1 enters the diagnostic mode on the ECU.
 
It wouldn't start or would start idle fine but die once you raised your RPMs, it's a bad bulb most likely
If FL1 was open there would be no power to the starter logic.
If FL2 was open there would be no power to the coil/igniter and injectors.
If FL MAIN was open there would be no power to the ECU.
 

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