Caster Bushing alignment Templates

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Ah-Ha! Thanks for the illustration, Christo. Now I get it! I was thinking that the bushings represented a mounting in the frame end and you had one template that took care of both arms. I feel really stupid now.
 
However with our arms that is not the case. With the arms we did not rotate the axle, we designed them to put the axle exactly in the same orientation (rotation as seen from the side) but 6" lower under the truck.

Christo, I never meant to give the impression that your custom arms had this type of dynamic.

I was only trying to help people to understand what it was I was saying concerning correcting for caster with using stock arms and how this press pattern avoided it.
 
I can see how the caster plates can yield a different result, but I can not see it in the arms. I am trying to understand why?

Next 6" truck we do, we will send it for pre and post alignment again and see what we get.
 
I have finally jumped off the fence.
I am going to use Ricks template with Slee's CC bushings.
My thinking goes like this:
I will lose some castor by centering the axle rather than just maximizing castor.
I will gain a little height due to the centering therefore I will need alittle more castor.
So I need to go with 3* adjustment over 2* adjustment.
I feel better about Slees polyester bushings flexablity anyway so I really hope this works out for my UJ angles.
I will post up measurements once installed.
 
I plan on trying the second set of OME bushings with Rick's template. Again, THANKS for the wealth of experience here, and time to help out others. True FJ comrodery. (misspelled)

I'm running 851's and 860's with a 30 mm OME spacer up front with an ARB, no winch. Found caster is 1.2 on right .6 on the left. More than likely, I'm off on the install, but I was quite careful. I am a technical visual designer, so I did my best on my measurements off "natural" means of using a "flat surface" my driveway, to do so. Thid was my process: http://pages.sbcglobal.net/desmo/fj80/INDEX.HTM

This made me really question the actual measurements since no driveway or road is really flat! You have to remember I deal with pixel measurements! Anyway, I also purchased Christo's bushings as a backup. Rick has provided some real starting point for me, and I'll post results as soon as I get her done. Hope it helps others in the process. It will be interesting how the templates and Christo's bushings work out on a 3 inch lift compared to my 2.5 (2.0) lift.
 
I sent out three sets of templates. You will need to press the bushings into the templates. This is intentional so the bushings will stay in place during the initial press to get them started.

Since I haven't used them to install any bushings myself you guys are on your own to figure out a good procedure for these.
 
Alright,
Finally got on the same rack with the same tech that did my first alignment.
Orginally my castor was DS -1.15 PS -1.35
Post Rick template-Slee 3*Bushings
DS 1.25 PS 1.00
So it would appear the axle centering took away exactly 1 degree.
It feels great on the road but I have one unexpected problem.
My wife keeps taking off in it again like she did when it was stock.
I know this puts my 80's front drive shaft right were it needs to be.
I will measure them as soon as I clean out the garage again and I can get it from my wife.
I could not be happier.
Bill
 
The end result was that the OME yielded 3* of correction and the Slee bushings yielded 4* of correction.

At this point the templates need to be evaluated against an arm and pressed in.

Rick,
Would it be possible to mark your template for the setting to vary (maybe in 1/2* increments) between 0* and 3* with the OME bushings and between 0* and 4* with the Slee bushings.

The reason that I am asking is for those that later need to tweak their caster after installing either your plates or the Slee plates with stock bushings. These templates could be used for a more precise caster alignment after someone has make a major change like spring spacers, or a winch & dual battery. I realize adding front end weight would reduce the needed caster so you would need to also index for negative caster adjustments.

It might be possible for someone that has installed your plates (at 7*) to get enough adjustment with the Slee 4* bushings to go all the way up to the 6" springs. Maybe?

-B-
 
wow i am glad i drive a leaf spring 62.
 
wow i am glad i drive a leaf spring 62.

And how do you adjust your caster with your leaf springs?
Welded or bolt on shims?
Cut-n-turn?

-B-
 
Rick,
Would it be possible to mark your template for the setting to vary (maybe in 1/2* increments) between 0* and 3* with the OME bushings and between 0* and 4* with the Slee bushings.

The reason that I am asking is for those that later need to tweak their caster after installing either your plates or the Slee plates with stock bushings. These templates could be used for a more precise caster alignment after someone has make a major change like spring spacers, or a winch & dual battery. I realize adding front end weight would reduce the needed caster so you would need to also index for negative caster adjustments.

It might be possible for someone that has installed your plates (at 7*) to get enough adjustment with the Slee 4* bushings to go all the way up to the 6" springs. Maybe?

-B-

The problem here is that even though I could mark the templates as you said it would be in relation to the arm Right now the position holds the arm in place because the axle rotates on it's center. I couldn't do that in any other position, it's offset dependent. So in those other positions of different degrees the arm would shift slightly altering the results of change in caster. So you are back to varying results.

While rotating the axle on it's center does allow for more correction without objects colliding like tierods on arms, it does have it's limitations. The problem comes at the rear of the bracket on the axle. Eventually you will rotate the axle to where the socket on the arm that holds the bushing will hit the ceiling of the bracket. I estimate this to be around 9* possibly 10* from looking at my truck. The OME bushings could possibly work but I doubt the Slee blues would go. It would have to be tried to know for sure. Whether you are rotating with my plates or a cut and turn I believe the limitations are close to the same.

For what you are asking, if someone had my plates on set to 7* an option would be those weld on plates that Downey sells. They weld onto the rear bracket and drop that mounting point by 2". That would help with caster for sure but I don't know how it would play with the drive shaft.
 
rick -

i currently have OME springs and the OME bushings in, castor still feels off. just bought the slee plates and 1" front spacers. i am bringing the whole thing up to your place to figure it out! oh yeah, and at least 2 cases for all this work!
 
rick -

i currently have OME springs and the OME bushings in, castor still feels off. just bought the slee plates and 1" front spacers. i am bringing the whole thing up to your place to figure it out! oh yeah, and at least 2 cases for all this work!

I've got plenty of beer all ready. I've got a grinder so we could bolt the plates on but no welder to finish the job off.
 
i might be able to bring a welder.

now is this the wrong place to ask but what about OME bushings and slee castor plates? how many degrees? too much?
 
i might be able to bring a welder.

now is this the wrong place to ask but what about OME bushings and slee castor plates? how many degrees? too much?

Some people with stock bushings have interference problems so OME bushings will probably be a sure bet. I think they were designed with stock bushings in mind.

And I think you can drive with just the plates bolted on also, so welding could be done later.
 
8 years later...
How did this all work out?

This is an old thread and I really can't place it in the time line of what I was doing. I ended up designing my own caster plates. The idea was to rotate the axle on it's center axis to help clearance issues with the tie rod among other things. This was done by drilling all new holes for that purpose. After the first batch was out and installed I repositioned the holes to add an arm drop which solved the contact problem completely.
 
Sorry Rick- I have your plates on (from FOR) can you remind me what they were intended to achieve caster wise?
 
I just did a couple caster plate swaps one was for a 4" lift (which mine is about a 5") came out at +.8 and +.4" caster . Seat of the pants feel was not bad really . Then i swapped them out for the iron man 6" lift plates and got +3. 6 and +2. 6. Seat of pants no real change that i could feel really.
My truck is a 1990 jdm 81 with the 1997 lx450 axles.
A freind has the same truck with the same iron man plates but with a 6" lift his caster was -.1 and -.5 .
Funny the lift difference is under an inch but totally different caster . We then figured it must be the difference in axle turn . His has the original jdm axles.. Both have the same clearance at the tie rod. You can actually see my axle sits flatter than his . I dont think his truck could achieve proper caster with any plates even homemade , without a washer mod on the axle mount itself.
 

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