Caster angles and handling effects (1 Viewer)

[KiwiDingo]

How much caster is everybody running? I'm just playing around with my adjustable caster plates to see how it changes the steering and handling at different settings. Any pros/cons of going less or more than factory specs? I had a go at driving with 0.9 degrees and steering was really nice and light but it no longer returns to center very well. Might give around 3 degrees a test drive too before setting it somewhere in the middle. Interesting to feel how it changes the driving style

 

[Lumpskie]

Someone will correct me here, but I believe that the stock specs for caster are between roughly 2 degrees and 4 degrees. The more caster you dial in the less your rig will want to change direction. That means less "dartiness" on the road... especially on the highway. Less caster makes your steering feel light. I think shooting for 3 degrees is a good target.

 

[KliersLC]

Just a quick note, setting caster at less than factory specs seems to work fine for a lot of folks, and in most cases nobody notices. I have found that in emergency maneuvers, the truck is VERY hard to control when you have less caster than is called for. YMMV

Dan

 

[jonheld]

The combination of caster and toe is what makes the truck well behaved on the street.
Too little caster and she will become unstable in certain situations. This can sometimes be reduced by adding a bit of additional toe in. However, there are down sides to this. Faster tire wear, worse fuel economy, etc.

Additional caster (more than OEM specification) will add heaviness to the steering and will force return to center. Zero toe will add a bit of lightness back to the steering but still maintain good road manners.
Since adding the Delta 4" radius arms, that is where I am now and she is a pleasure to drive.

 

[COYS]

Can't imagine that driving an 80 with your current caster spec can be all that relaxing as mine used to be between 0 an 1 with those lame correction bushings. Hwy driving twitchiness made the truck feel... aftermarket.

It's all relative, though. Until one drives an 80 that's properly sorted, ignorance is bliss.

Like jonheld, I'm running the Delta 4 on an OME medium lift. My caster is at 4.25 both sides. Happy.

 

[patrickk]

After driving my truck a good amount of miles with 0* caster... I didn't think it was "that bad." But like others have said, ignorance is bliss. The random two feet side to side at highway speeds was a little nerve wracking, but if you were paying attention it was bearable.

However, now that I've got correct caster... I'll NEVER go back. It's so nice to cruise at 70+ without having to worry about the random two feet side to side movement. It's so much more relaxing to DD the truck now. Also, my wife, even as a passenger, most definitely noticed the better handling after I got the caster corrected.

 

[SNLC]

Mine is at 2.5* and I think it sucks. I like 4.5*.

Cheers

 

[KiwiDingo]

Thanks, awesome info. I'm going to keep adjusting it up and driving it each time to see how it feels. By the sounds of it seems like I might be leaving it at the highest setting though.

I've been told I need to recheck my toe each time I change caster as it's linked and changes toe as you move caster. Which way does toe move as you increase caster? Further in or out? I guess I'll find out when I get it measured anyways

 

[SeaJay]

I didnt think it changed the tow adjusting the caster, be intresting to hear if it did on yours. Mine was 4* last time it was checked 3 yrs ago, it will vary a bit between fully loaded and unloaded

 

[Heckraiser]

Caster and toe are independent. Only way to change toe is to adjust your tie rod ends. Change in caster will not affect toe and vice versa.

What kind of caster kit are you using that's adjustable? Most caster products are an "install it, and that's what you get." sort of product.

 

[SeaJay]

I have the xxi kit, its adjustable

 

[KiwiDingo]

I'm using an old XXI caster plate kit, I don't think they make them anymore.

I was told by my suspension guy that it's because of solid axles having a fixed camber. As you roll back your axle the contact patch changes but king pin angle stays the same. Camber is fixed but changes as caster rolls back and changes toe.

 

[Heckraiser]

That is cool, I've never seen one of those!

 

[jonheld]

I've been told I need to recheck my toe each time I change caster as it's linked and changes toe as you move caster.

That would only be true if you were changing caster by 45 degrees.
For a few degrees in either direction, toe in/out will not change.
With caster correction brackets or radius arms, the entire axle housing is rotating. Everything moves together.

 

[SeaJay]

KiwiDingo FYI mine is in hole 7, second last hole, and from hub center to flair 550-560mm

 

[Shoredreamer]

I went from 2° to 3.6° now with my Delta arms I recently installed. If feels great, the only issue that may be related to caster that I’m having is light death wobble on curvy mountain roads at speed if I accelerate or lightly hit the brakes. Anybody else have that issue?

 

[SeaJay]

I went from 2° to 3.6° now with my Delta arms I recently installed. If feels great, the only issue that may be related to caster that I’m having is light death wobble on curvy mountain roads at speed if I accelerate or lightly hit the brakes. Anybody else have that issue?

no, are your tie rod ends and rubber bushes good, no chassis cracks? if all ok im guessing your wheel bearings are a tad loose

 

[secretasiansam]

I went from 2° to 3.6° now with my Delta arms I recently installed. If feels great, the only issue that may be related to caster that I’m having is light death wobble on curvy mountain roads at speed if I accelerate or lightly hit the brakes. Anybody else have that issue?

I was fighting a pretty severe death wobble at 35-45 mph. I'd recently replaced all suspension bushings with oem. Added landtank rear lower arms and delta 4" radius arms.
The truck drive night and day better with those mods, minus the death wobble. After checking and rechecking my torque values i got fed up and took it to a mechanic.
He put it on the lift for an inspection and found nothing obvious. But on a test drive couldn't replicate the death wobble. That was super weird because it was super consistent.
Our only guess is putting it on the lift and letting the suspension droop changed where the axle was positioned. It no longer has death wobble. It also reduced drive line vibes.
Long story short, if you recently changed a bunch of suspension parts, maybe throw the truck on a lift and let it fully droop.
Edit; the wobble came after all the new parts.

 

[KiwiDingo]

Ok so just tried a few positions but it's now in the highest position available, which I think I'll leave it at, and it feels great. Steering is much more direct albeit a tad bit heavier. I was at 1 degree in position 2 so I should be about 3.5 now in position 7 as the manual says it moves 0.5 degrees each position. Only thing I haven't tested yet is high speed turns and tracking, it's wet here today so might wait till it dries first.

 

[KiwiDingo]

KiwiDingo FYI mine is in hole 7, second last hole, and from hub center to flair 550-560mm

Mine only has 7 positions, that's weird?

Edit - never mind, there's another hole further around before position 1 but that's only there for installation and can't be used for caster correction, I think you were counting that one as well?