Carpet Install / Tint Removal / Wheel rust repair

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Hi, I've had good luck removing the film with air. Find a loose place and put your air hose pistol to it ,inflates the film like a ballon and mine came off. Mike
 
Steam is definitely the way to go on the tint.

Ok, so I finally got the backing plate off and successfully made the wheel well look like swiss cheese. It's hard to tell where the bottom rivets are. I had to search the web until I found a pic of one. Thank you very much to this blog. 84 FJ60 RESTO then I guessed at where I thought it was. Got it wrong... drilled another two holes and this time was successful.

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Took the old seat guide plate to the vice and pounded it flat. Then to the bench grinder and cleaned it up.
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Got a package from S.O.R. today. New knock off door handles (my driver door handle was cracked and not working well at all) and I got this new knockoff hand brake boot. Not sure how I feel about it. 1. It's obnoxiously large. 2. It's not leather. Maybe I'll break out my wife's sewing machine and try making my own. Not high on my priority list at the moment. This one should do fine for now. It's not ripped.

[Edit above^] I really liked the SOR Nylon Ebrake boot after I installed it. it actually looks really good with the new seats, newer Tuffy Box and new carpet. An old leather one would have looked weird. I also really like the size of the new one despite my first reaction. The old one ripped because it’s to small for the hand brakes motion. I bought a used leather one and it was 2 pulls away from ripping in the exact same spot. So let’s say I’m totally happy with this one and do in fact recommend it.

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The aftermarket door handles are a bit cheap feeling. I had to bore out the hole a bit to make the pin fit. The yellow plastic dodad is also kind of janky and not that snug of a fit. $30 bucks for a pair. It's better than before that's for sure. We'll see how long it lasts.
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Back to the wheel wells... Got a little progress done today. Now just need some sheet metal.
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Cancer removed. Remember those 3 little guide holes I drilled in the beginning. Well I was sure not to cut past that second one. I had to cut out the bottom one but that still leaves me the top two, plus I have the rivet hole on the bottom to get me back to home base.
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Made a little cardboard cut out so I can get the sheet metal snugged in there just right...
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I'll use this as a template to trace out on top of the sheet metal. Then I'll stick the sheet metal in the hole, spot weld it and then give it a good bead all the way around. Then It will be time for the heat and beat.
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Been a bit slow moving around here with the rains. Also had to put a new suspension on my daily driver.

Got a little bit further on the wheel wells. My neighbor here filling the rust holes in the backing plate with my MIG Welder.

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I mostly tig welded this at my neighbors house. I was a little scared to just melt the sheet metal with my Mig welder. After I ground the welds I went back in with my mig to plug some super small holes. Took me a few times to get it all sealed up.

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I used to do patches exactly cut to size but found it really hard to weld without going thru. Now I do small over lapping patches. But that looks very nice.
The wheel well areas are a can of worms to say the least.
 
Then all hell breaks lose... I can't seam to break the backing plate. Can any one tell me if this bottom section has any rivets? I can't see the backside here as it's under the truck. I tried with a mirror and my iphone but can't get a look behind it. Im struggling to get the plate all the way off. View attachment 1651288

Does this bottom section have rivets to drill out? Any one have a pic of this plate removed they can share?
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Going to need some serious work here. I'll be amazed if I ever get the back seat in right again. lol.
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I've got the same hole!

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Ok so it took me three and a half months to get the interior back in. Not 4 days like I originally thought. Those wheel wells kicked my A$$! Once I got those all buttoned up I was able to move on to the carpet and padding install. Here are a few pics of the wheel well finish up.

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I used these bolts along with my orginal guide holes to line it all back up before welding the seat brace on.
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After primer and what ever red rattle can I had laying around the garage, we're back in business
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On to the next side... This one goes wayyyyy faster. Like 3 months on the passenger side and 1 day on this side. I sorta rushed through this one though. I was over it. This side really was a lot easier just because of the simple fact that I'd done the other side allready. It just came apart with much less of a fight since I knew what I was looking for on this side.

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I bought some "weldable primer" and painted the first one all the way and then struggled to get good clean welds. This time I used these garage sale stickers to leave me some clean metal to weld the holes back up. Worked pretty good.
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very nice! good work to get done.
 
Good job! I am all too familiar with that job, be happy that your floor pans are in good shape :) Not many are willing to dive in that deep, kudos Sir :beer:
 
Nice job on the prep and welds. Good to see you are taking care of your drill bits. Tap magic is great stuff! Most people just drill and do not add anything for lubricant/ cooling.
 
When you're all done with all painting and welding, you might buy a can of aerosol Lithium grease, and shoot it up those drain channels. This will act as rustproofing so that this never has to be done again.

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