Carburetor for my FJ40 is missing, what do I need? (1 Viewer)

[FJ40GRUFF]

The 1977 FJ40 I have acquired is missing its carburetor. The little bit of research I have done shows an Aisan carb as the original. Are there any carbs that will run fine on the 2F engine as the original or are the Aisen's the one I need? I see they also have "no name" carbs out there for a 2F engines. Anybody have any luck with those? I'm looking for something that's reasonably priced and won't break the bank. Let me know what yall have! Thanks

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

I bought one of those no-name Taiwan copy $80 carbs and it works just fine once it's all tuned.

I had a problem with the idle circuit being clogged, so go ahead and blow every fuel circuit and orifice out with carb cleaner and air and it should work fine. I'm at sea level and so the factory installed jets work for me. You may want to swap stuff around if you are at any decent elevation.

 

[FJ40GRUFF]

I bought one of those no-name Taiwan copy $80 carbs and it works just fine once it's all tuned.

I had a problem with the idle circuit being clogged, so go ahead and blow every fuel circuit and orifice out with carb cleaner and air and it should work fine. I'm at sea level and so the factory installed jets work for me. You may want to swap stuff around if you are at any decent elevation.

I'm also at sea level so thinks for the information.

 

[OGBeno]

This one…. If you have no real smog requirements.

Aftermarket 2F / 1.5F Carburetor for Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ60 - Made in Japan

High quality aftermarket 2F / 1.5F carburetor for desmogged applications. Same as OEM part # 21100-61012. Made by Fuji Japan. Notes: If your vehicle is 1976 or newer and your vehicle is registered in California or other areas with smog check requirements, you cannot use this carburetor. We...

www.cityracerllc.com

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

I'm also at sea level so thinks for the information.

Mine is also a 1977 FJ40 so the linkages and everything should work. The one I bought is identical looking to the one posted by @OGBeno but was made in Taiwan vs Japan. Same equivalent part number and everything since my rig is completely de-smogged. $80 on Amazon.

 

[FJ40GRUFF]

This one…. If you have no real smog requirements.

Aftermarket 2F / 1.5F Carburetor for Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ60 - Made in Japan

High quality aftermarket 2F / 1.5F carburetor for desmogged applications. Same as OEM part # 21100-61012. Made by Fuji Japan. Notes: If your vehicle is 1976 or newer and your vehicle is registered in California or other areas with smog check requirements, you cannot use this carburetor. We...

www.cityracerllc.com

Thanks so much

 

[FJ40GRUFF]

Mine is also a 1977 FJ40 so the linkages and everything should work. The one I bought is identical looking to the one posted by @OGBeno but was made in Taiwan vs Japan. Same equivalent part number and everything since my rig is completely de-smogged. $80 on Amazon.

$80 is such a good deal

 

[pjohnson]

$80 is such a good deal

A couple of the local guys have tried them and ended up sourcing an original used carb or buying the higher quality aftermarket from CityRacer. They literally gave the carbs away to anyone who would take them.

 

[OGBeno]

A couple of the local guys have tried them and ended up sourcing an original used carb or buying the higher quality aftermarket from CityRacer. They literally gave the carbs away to anyone who would take them.

I was going to caveat my recommendation in saying that the Japanese iterations are of significantly higher quality Patrick, but in the end, it wasn’t worth it.

Thanks for the empirical evidence.

 

[mattressking]

I was going to caveat my recommendation in saying that the Japanese iterations are of significantly higher quality Patrick, but in the end, it wasn’t worth it.

Thanks for the empirical evidence.

The Fuji reps are fine, but the ICS o-ring usually is torn and the float fails if driven often. Swap both for oem and you’re good to go.

Also inspect the emulsion tube - but usually it’s the Chinese copies that drop the emulsion tube out of the primary/secondary nozzle.

The vacuum secondary gasket is also worthwhile to inspect along with secondary kickup angle.

Or just buy new OEM, that’s the easiest

 

[FJ40GRUFF]

Such great information from everyone!

 

[kerplunk]

I've had one of these for 7 years now:
Amazon product ASIN B07X2LH35Y
It works, I guess, more or less, sort of. Not sure how many of my problems could be contributed to it or other things (can't really blame it for the vacuum leak). I'm working through them (slowly....).

Have never had the right clip to hook up the choke cable, so that's been unused.

And have recently found every time after sitting for several days (maybe less) the float bowl seems to be emptying itself somehow (i.e. can't see any fuel in the glass window) and it's even harder to start that just no choke....

 

[knuckle47]

Had to try this…. Bought the $80 carb…installed it and the truck started and idled well. The transition from idle to anything else was a catastrophe. Tried several adjustments and it improved slightly. Pulled it off and put back the old carb after a rebuild and cleaning. Ran as if it was never removed.. going to dissect the Chinese carb and see where the oddities are.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

u do this and carry on , as usual ...

@FJ40GRUFF

NEW OEM Type Modern Updated CHOKE CABLE Assy. Part # 78310-60420 Fits ALL 1/75-10/85 FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 2F Engine Carburetors w/ a Barrel Stop Type Butterfly Attachment Point - VintageTEqParts.com

NEW OEM Type Modern Updated CHOKE CABLE Assy. Part # 78310-60420 Fits ALL : 1/75-10/85 FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 2F...

vintageteqparts.com

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NEW OEM Type Modern Updated CHOKE CABLE Assy. Part # 78310-60420 Fits ALL 1/75-10/85 FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 2F Engine Carburetors w/ a Barrel Stop Type Butterfly Attachment Point - VintageTEqParts.com

NEW OEM Type Modern Updated CHOKE CABLE Assy. Part # 78310-60420 Fits ALL : 1/75-10/85 FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 2F...

vintageteqparts.com

 

[Skreddy]

Had to try this…. Bought the $80 carb…installed it and the truck started and idled well. The transition from idle to anything else was a catastroph. Tried several adjustments and it improved slightly. Pulled it off and put back the old carb after a rebuild and cleaning. Ran as if it was never removed.. going to dissect the Chinese carb and see where the oddities are.

Check out this thread in the 60 section if you haven’t seen it. I’ve got some pics of what to look for. I’ve used 5 of these carbs I think and every one needed basically the same stuff. 2 buddies each used one and they were flawless out of the box. Go figure.

Carb leaking Fuel

Hey fellas, Installed this chinese carb on my newly rebuilt 2f, and after running the 2f/break in its apparently started to leak -- fuel. The sight window didn't show gas up to the level like i've seen this carb properly do befoore. Wondering what's going on here and the fix --- and most...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[knuckle47]

Well @Skreddy thanks for confirming what I would not think is that obvious. I had bought a few carb replacements for my power washer and riding mower (Briggs & Stratton) , Echo string trimmer and even my Stihl chain saw. Likely all Chinese copies and surprised they all worked very well. Of course they are a lot simpler in design. Especially that my chain saw was nearly 43 years old and needed very little adjustment.

From a visual standpoint, it looked great and sprayed fuel. I was surprised it idled well too. Pressing the accelerator was just sputtering, coughing and then stalled. it’s as if the accelerator pump had no fuel. I’ll post a few photos when I pull it apart. I actually bought two of the carb rebuild kits. Used one for the original carb already .

My dumb question of the day is: can someone tell me what is the purpose of the elongated butterfly shaft?

 

[Skreddy]

That shaft is for the ac kick up/ idle up. If you don’t have ac it’s unnecessary and on a 40, I cut it off or it interferes with the vacuum port in the carb spacer. 60 series port is a little different and works fine with it.

 

[kerplunk]

My dumb question of the day is: can someone tell me what is the purpose of the elongated butterfly shaft?

Cruise control, it gets stuck on the vacuum line off the carb insulator and holds the throttle open for a pretty steady 45 mph.

You'll probably want to make sure, if there's a clamp on that hose, to make sure the screw isn't on the top.

(or just cut it off)

 

[Aussie Alaskan]

Well @Skreddy thanks for confirming what I would not think is that obvious. I had bought a few carb replacements for my power washer and riding mower (Briggs & Stratton) , Echo string trimmer and even my Stihl chain saw. Likely all Chinese copies and surprised they all worked very well. Of course they are a lot simpler in design. Especially that my chain saw was nearly 43 years old and needed very little adjustment.

From a visual standpoint, it looked great and sprayed fuel. I was surprised it idled well too. Pressing the accelerator was just sputtering, coughing and then stalled. it’s as if the accelerator pump had no fuel. I’ll post a few photos when I pull it apart. I actually bought two of the carb rebuild kits. Used one for the original carb already .

My dumb question of the day is: can someone tell me what is the purpose of the elongated butterfly shaft?

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I'm no carb expert, but it almost sounds like your main jet may be clogged. If it idles fine then your idle circuit is working as it should, but when you crack the throttle valve open by hand or by pushing on the accelerator pedal it pulls in alot more air which in turn needs more fuel to run.

If you start the engine and have it idling you should be able to look down the carb (no air filter housing installed) and hear it sucking away, but you shouldn't see any fuel. Then manually give it some throttle and watch and see if you get a stream of fuel coming from the main jet. If not, then that may be your issue. Run a fine wire thru the jet from the fuel bowl side, spray copious amounts of carb cleaner thru the it and then use compressed air to really blow any obstructions out. You can do all of that without even take the card off the manifold. Put the top back on and try again.
Good luck.

 

[knuckle47]

I'm no carb expert, but it almost sounds like your main jet may be clogged. If it idles fine then your idle circuit is working as it should, but when you crack the throttle valve open by hand or by pushing on the accelerator pedal it pulls in alot more air which in turn needs more fuel to run.

If you start the engine and have it idling you should be able to look down the carb (no air filter housing installed) and hear it sucking away, but you shouldn't see any fuel. Then manually give it some throttle and watch and see if you get a stream of fuel coming from the main jet. If not, then that may be your issue. Run a fine wire thru the jet from the fuel bowl side, spray copious amounts of carb cleaner thru the it and then use compressed air to really blow any obstructions out. You can do all of that without even take the card off the manifold. Put the top back on and try again.
Good luck.

Actually, the main jet port is spraying fuel…possibly not enough so I am going to peek inside anyway. I will try your wire technique and re-install but some of the stories i have read about the assembly of this carb almost wants me to pull it apart and inspect the parts and pieces. I am going to cut that excess shaft off.