Car carrier vs Tow Dolly (1 Viewer)

[zebrabeefj40]

Your 33s will almost certainly be too big for their slings, I had 28" rollers and even then there wasn't much slack left. I threw heavy chains around both axels (watch your brake lines) and secured with come-alongs.

I'll second this idea. Head over to Harbor Freight/Tractor Supply and buy a couple chains and some load binders. Use the chains instead of the straps on the trailer. That way you can place the Cruiser on the trailer for best weight distribution not because that's where the straps are.

I've moved Cruisers with both a dolly and a trailer. I prefer the trailer because it has brakes while the rental dollies do not.

Good luck!

Nick

 

[Lugal]

I prefer the trailer because it has brakes while the rental dollies do not.

That's really what sucked so hard when I did it. I gave myself a lot of room for stops and turns, but the 60 kept on pushing the 100 around. Wouldn't be as much of a problem with a bigger truck pulling, but for safety's sake I'll be using a carrier or a flatbed in the future.

 

[Elbert]

the dual axle uhaul trailer works fine, except for the built in tire straps. I bought my own rachet straps and axle straps (as I'm planning on buyin my own trailer at some point). Make sure you trailer reciver is rated for the load as well as the trailer ball and hitch. I belive I noted that the uhaul trailer is rated to haul 5,400lbs.

sometimes the uhaul people want to see the trailer hitch and ball etc...other times they don't. I use a K2500 suburban and don't have issues.

with my 33 tires...the built in straps will not work as noted above, so you have to come up with your own. the uhaul trailer does have two built in saftey chains and is well made. I would use a trailer over a tow dolly any day for this type vehicle.

 

[bosljeff]

Sounds like as long as I can get it on a carrier, that is the way to go, pending a purchase of my own/better straps and chains.

I will be pulling it with the biggest van I can rent. Whether it be penske or uhaul. Uhaul always seems like crap to me and my experiences with penske have been great: newer trucks, cleaner, safer. Ultimately, it depends on which one I can get a carrier that the 60 fits on. After that, I will rig it on there myself.

All good advice. Thanks everyone.

 

[doug720]

Another option is a tow bar. I tow our 60 behind our motor home all the time. Thousands of miles with no issues. I use a RoadMaster tracker bar with the base plate bolted directly to the front bumper. The bar was less than $200.00 at camping world.

I use the bar to tow the 60 behind my Ford E350 van also. For a few hundred dollars, you have a great option for as long as you own the your 60.

Any Penske or U-Haul truck would no problem with the tow bar and 60 combo. A tow bar set up weighs way less than a dolly or trailer.

Only one draw back with the tow bar...The odometer still runs and records mileage. I tired disconnecting the odo cable, but oil leaked out. I don't really care about the added miles, I just adjust my service intervals to compensate.


Good luck no matter which method you use.

Doug


https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/289461-towing-60-a.html#post4524088

 

[bosljeff]

Part of the reason I don't want to drive it is the wear and tear and that it is a ticking time bomb of problems just waiting to happen. Even thought straight up towing isn't as taxing, things are still spinning and being worked on. The suspension is shot, the alignment is way off...I just really hope a carrier fits, especially from penske.

 

[bosljeff]

Okay, googled it, can't find it. Where can i find a flatbed vehicle carrier if I am considering just buying one as an investment?

 

[Elbert]

trailer

Okay, googled it, can't find it. Where can i find a flatbed vehicle carrier if I am considering just buying one as an investment?

big tex trailers, pj trailers, metal deck car hauler,

 

[Elbert]

car hauler

Here is what I do, until I can buy a trailer. This is the galvanized trailer....its not the older model " red metal trailer" this is not as good.

 

[bosljeff]

Awesome. This can serve as proof too. So, you have 33s (10.5 or 12.5?) and what strap set up, as specifically as possible, did you use? You mentioned their straps wont work. If I understand right, you didn't use any of the strapping/chaining supplies from the uhaul. What do you use, where did you get it? I don't want to re-invent the wheel here.

As for the receiver and hitch, since I am getting a uhaul truck, that shouldn't be a problem. The only thing I have to rig up is getting the cruiser to stay safe and secure on the trailer.

I guess, to keep it simple, give me a shopping list, name and item and quantity then I'll go buy it and figure out the rest once I have what I need.

Thanks for your time. It is nice to simply emulate others' work and just do it right the first time.

Here is what I do, until I can buy a trailer.

 

[bosljeff]

1 axle strap, 1 load binder with chains on each per axle or 1 axle strap, 1 load binder with chains per "corner" of vehicle? Meaning tie down simply the front axle and the rear axle or 2 tie downs per axle?

 

[Elbert]

stay clear of the Load binders...

I use the ratchet straps made for car.. I think mine were from northern tool, but I know various others make all kind of styles, cost. What I use is 4 ratchet straps with 4 axle straps. The uhaul trailer has built in tire straps for the two front tires, but with 33 or larger tires you will not be able to use them. The uhaul trailer also has built in d rings on teh inside edge of the trailer for using your own straps, plus it has two bulit in safety chains. I "x" the straps front and back, One ratchet and one axle strap per each side, then front and rear. I'll post up a pic a little later of the straps.

33 * 12.50.. tires is what I run

One things is this.... history makes no difference with the uhaul place, I've found that every store is different. Some are "anal" about the rules, others could care less. Personally you need to have the right rated hittch and reciver along with the right tailer ball. Max is 2 inch ball on these trailers, they also have surge brakes in place of the 7 pin electric type.

Axle Straps | Straps | Material Handling | Northern Tool + Equipment

4 of the above

S-Line Ratchet Tie-Down Strap — 10,000-Lb. Capacity, 2in x 8ft. | Ratchet Tie-Down Straps | Northern Tool + Equipment

4 of these too.

axle straps loop around the axle, ratchet strap connect to the d-ring on the trailer and then connect to the axle strap.

Generally its a good idea to run strap from drivers side d ring, to passenger side axle strap.

Then from passenger side d ring, to drivers side axle strap. This is the "x" pattern. Then of course you loop saftey chains around approprate parts.

Best to tie down from front and rear axles, 2nd best would be from frame, third might be from d rings on truck if you have them front and rear on bumpers. I would avoid compressing the suspension on the towed truck unless you have no other choice. They also make some things called "cluster hooks" that have tie down connectors made into them like they use on the car haulers that bring new cars into the dealer ships. Many frames have slots, or other type holes made in them from the factory to facilitate these type of connectors. You'll be fine using appropriatley rated straps like I linked to, making sure they don't get cut or damaged with too much grease or crap on them for extended periods.

If you need a pic of the straps... let me know.. I think the links should give you a good idea. As stated..there are multiple versions of straps and all kind of stuff. Everyone will have their own idea of how things work for them. I do what's safe and proven. I drove a wrecker for a few years and have towed all kind of garbage both on conventional wreckers and on roll backs.

Dont waste your time telling the uhaul people the details about your truck you are going to tow... it will only cause you aggrivation.

 

[bosljeff]

axle straps loop around the axle, ratchet strap connect to the d-ring on the trailer and then connect to the axle strap.

Generally its a good idea to run strap from drivers side d ring, to passenger side axle strap.

Then from passenger side d ring, to drivers side axle strap. This is the "x" pattern. Then of course you loop saftey chains around approprate parts.

Awesome detail. Thank you. It all makes sense. Quick clarification: with the 'X' pattern (driver's side trailer D ring to ratchet strap to passenger side axle strap) doesn't that just ask for the strap to be pulled and potentially slide towards the center of the vehicle and cause undwanted slack? Maybe I misunterstood. If you happen to have pix that would be awesome, maybe I misunderstood.

Thanks for your time. It is very much appreciated.

 

[Cruzerman]

stay clear of the Load binders...

Why? I've always used these and it seems like I see these being used by all the truckers and haulers I have seen.

 

[Elbert]

I should have said, I prefer ratchet straps over the load binders for this type of towing.

in my view, load binders are for getting serious with a set of chains...with something thats fairly heavy. the new ratchet straps and tie downs work better for the light stuff like small trucks and cars...

 

[Elbert]

using an x pattern with the tie downs... help keep the vehicle or item where you want it on the trailer.

 

[bosljeff]

I guess I'm missing something. I understand the x pattern, but as you tighten the ratchet strap, wont the axle strap have a tendency to slip on the axle towards the anchor point? So the driver's side anchor point, attached to the ratchet strap, attached to the axle strap, wrapped around the passenger side axle; won't this strap slide centrally, toward the driver's side anchor point?

 

[bosljeff]

Safe assumption Penske car carrier is about the same size as Uhaul i.e. will it fit on a penske trailer?

 

[ramble59]

Here is what I do, until I can buy a trailer.

XX2 Best and safest option

 

[forestdan7]

Hey Elbert,

Got any pictures of your strap setup? I'm thinking about doing the same thing to move my 60 next time.

Thanks.