Can't get this damn starting/stalling issue sorted, made a video this time

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Francis K

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May 11, 2005
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Location
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I actually have my truck for sale and I just reduced the price drastically when this popped back up today, honestly I'm just done dealing with this mess. If it doesn't sell even at the reduced price I guess she's going back to the shop again and I'll relist her at a higher price. So with that being said just in case she doesn't sell I would like to get an idea of what I'm dealing with here.....again.

I thought I had this problem sorted months ago after blocking off the EGR and having the manifold cleaned, she was driving great but it came back today:


-Have to continually crank her to turn over

-Turns over RPM's fluctuate and stalls out

-This is sometimes accompanied by a squealing sound and the parking brake light coming on

-Also sometimes my dash back lights will turn on and off as if I am using the keyfob to lock/unlock her

-Today it was accompanied by a fuel smell in the cabin

-After a few tries I get her rolling and she will buck as if the gas peddle isn't doing anything and then kicks in

-Eventually she starts driving fine like it never happened

Oh and the check engine light is back for P0770, transmission solenoid.....I don't think it's related and I have the part.


Again this is intermittent, it seems to do it completely randomly. Warm or cold it doesn't matter, just completely random and it hadn't done it in a month. Weather here has been consistent, no rain in weeks nothing like that which would cause a variable.


I didn't shut her off in the video, she shut off on her own.



 
If you didn't have the problem before you removed the manifold (I assume you're referring to the upper/lower intake), and now you do, I suspect the problem is the injectors. Specifically, the electrical connection to the injectors.

Also, it'd be a help to know what year this truck is and if any modifications have been done to the engine or electrical system.
 
If you didn't have the problem before you removed the manifold (I assume you're referring to the upper/lower intake), and now you do, I suspect the problem is the injectors. Specifically, the electrical connection to the injectors.

Also, it'd be a help to know what year this truck is and if any modifications have been done to the engine or electrical system.

No it was there, removing the manifolds was to fix it and it hasn't done it in the month or so since.

It's a 97 with 246k sorry about that, no engine modifications other than abs and Egr delete. Electrical is an after market keyless entry/remote start....

Thank you
 
OK, so you're stuck with engine troubleshooting. It's in the FSM. Sorry, there are no easy answers.
 
Like usual, next day and she's driving perfect again. Started up no issues, fuel smell gone and idle smooth as butter....

I'm taking her off sale for the time being, this is silly. I'm not going to pawn her off on the next guy just because she happened to be running fine that day and a week later it happens again.
 
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"Electrical is an after market keyless entry/remote start...."

Is the remote start system (alarm also?) still installed?

@jonheld might have something to add.
 
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Pulled her in today to do some troubleshooting, she's actually been running perfect ever since that day of course....really frustrating.

Was told to check the wiring harness near the egr, I don't know it looks pretty good to me I don't see anything that sticks out to me. I live in Michigan and this was also happening during the winter, I'm not so sure this is the culprit.

What do you guys think?
IMG_9937.webp
IMG_9936.webp
 
If you're getting a fuel smell I would trouble shoot the fuel system from the pump all the way to the injectors.
 
Not sure what you are looking at in those pics. Here is a good reference thread.

 
As mentioned above, if removing the upper intake had an impact then it could be a clue worth pursuing before you go too broad in your search. When you pulled the upper intake there are a number of sockets, wires and harness segments that may have been moved around some. That movement could have improved a connection that caused it to run well for a while but now it has again started to become intermmittent. Loose fuel injector plugs could be involved but I would guess that for how well it typically runs that there would only be one loose and if/when it is not connected you'd only be down one cylinder which wouldn't kill the engine completely I don't think. I assume that other circuits, like ones to essential sensors, could cause the engine to not start or to die.

Inspecting the harness near the egr pipe does seem like a good idea. To do this properly you need to remove the wrap/insulation so that you can see the individual wires. These wires should be flexible and not stiff or brittle with no visible cracks in the insulation coverings. If you find any that are stiff or that have cracked insulation you should cut out the bad segment and splice in new. Buy insulating harness wrap before you dive into this so that you can put it all back together and insulate that segment of harness well.

I'd be keeping an eye out for electrical issues related to the fuel system though ignition issues could be at play also since no spark can mean unburnt fuel smell just like too much fuel can.
 
If you're getting a fuel smell I would trouble shoot the fuel system from the pump all the way to the injectors.


That's where I'm at with it at this point, something electrical with the fuel pump or injectors. Hell I've tried everything else....
 
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