Cannot hold Idle / Carb Issue? (4 Viewers)

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Sep 2, 2025
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Recently purchased an 84 FJ60. Day 2, it died while driving and now cannot hold an idle. I am trying to clean the idle jet on the carb, but cannot find it. I've dug through other posts / tried to make sense of the explode diagrams of a carb. Yes, I feel stupid.

I believe the carb is a rebuilt 21100-61012 (h3662 based on the tag). Where do I find the idle jet?

Additional context: I've checked power through the solenoid (seems okay). It will start with the choke on, but immediately dies when you take it off. If there are other thoughts on what to check, please let me know. First "project" vehicle and trying to avoid immediately taking it to a shop.

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On top of what @bhsdriller said, there looks to be some suspect stuff going on, as well as a desmog. I’d really look over the desmog and all capped/plugged vacuum lines to ensure no leaks.
Based on the rough castings of the carb I’m going to go out on a limb and say it may be one of the Amazon knockoff carbs they stuck the factory tag on? Could be mistaken on that. If it is one of those, not anything wrong with that (I run one), but they usually need a little attention out of the box.

More pics!
 
Appreciate the feedback @bhsdriller @Skreddy

Sounds like it's time for me to try and take apart and clean a carb... I'll send some pics of that process once it's started.

Here are a few more pics of the engine bay. The prior owner did some work. Overall, I thought it sounded kosher based on what he shared, but would welcome any feedback / comments.

Note: the solo jumper cable off the battery is running electric to a trailer hitch...

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I might be seeing things and I wouldn’t know how it is even running, but believe the carb there is what supposed to be the EGR valve. I can’t tell if that’s been closed up or not by the pics.

What I’m talking about is in the second pic, right below the carb.
 
I’ll give it a shot….

EGR valve off exhaust manifold needs to be properly blocked off (circled in red).
I am not sure what the canister on the passenger side of the engine is, but I’d remove it and follow any vacuum lines to/from it and cap them. Also disconnect the ac idle up valve on drivers fender.
Basically with that carb and distributor, you only need: A) vacuum line from the carb base or manifold to the brake booster and B) vacuum line to the distributor vacuum advance IF you aren’t getting pinging under load when driving. Disregard red line over brake master cylinder, iPhone pic editing.
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I’m pretty positive that’s a knockoff aisin carb from seeing it better. On those, need to check all the mating surfaces for flatness AND that they are parallel. Then, for the vacuum secondary opening, ensure the port is sealing: may need to run a different o-ring to get them to seal. Basically, need to see if it’s sealing over the port between the diaphragm base and the carb body.
You also have some throttle linkage oddities. Looks like a spring on the accelerator pump arm? I can’t tell from the pics if there’s a cable and the mechanical linkage or if I’m just seeing the choke cable.

Don’t be discouraged though! Doesn’t look like a bad start at all from these pics.
 
First, welcome and :flipoff2:! Sounds like a vacuum leak. That hole where the EGR is supposed to come out may be a culprit. That doesn't look like an Aisan carb but could be wrong. @Skreddy's diagram is a good start, may need to reverse engineer the desmog further. That hose off the manifold (the weird-looking bib coming off the manifold between the carb and firewall) should only go to the brake booster, nothing T's off from it on my '83.

Cylindrical thing on the passenger side looks like maybe aftermarket cruise control?
 
I agree with @majdomo about that canister being a cruise control. I’d ditch that fo sheezy.

May need better pics of throttle linkage or figure out if your pedal is in fact still running the carb as intended or if there’s more home brewing back there.
 

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