because i had 2 do this same thing after 4 months, and trickle charging sucks, not worth my 200 bones
i just got a cheapo from autozone, never had a prob
i just got a cheapo from autozone, never had a prob
Can this 5+ yr old Optima Yellow Top be saved
- Thread starter John McVicker
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OK, saw this thread and had to jump in. Accidentally cored my perfectly good brand new Duralast Gold battery mistaking it for a dead yellow Optima. So, my goal is to save the Optima so I didn't completely screw the pooch by using my perfectly good battery for a core...
Connected my mutli-meter in and it was sitting at 11.19.
Put it on a 2a trickle charge for 2 hours, now it is at 6a for a while, and before bed I will switch it back to the 2a. Hopefully over time it will make its way back up.
Where should it be to show I am back in business? Around 14? I have read all the way from 12.6 to 14.4 so I am not sure... Anyone?
Jonny
Connected my mutli-meter in and it was sitting at 11.19.
Put it on a 2a trickle charge for 2 hours, now it is at 6a for a while, and before bed I will switch it back to the 2a. Hopefully over time it will make its way back up.
Where should it be to show I am back in business? Around 14? I have read all the way from 12.6 to 14.4 so I am not sure... Anyone?
Jonny
Last edited:
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Kinda a general response here;
A) Used Top-grade sears batteries for years to get the most CCA's & the best warranty. Ended up executing the warrantys for most of them, even though no winches, heavy duty lights, plow or mega-stereos. This was on a series of CJ-5's & CJ-7's, being used for both - daily drivers and med-level off-roading.
B) About a year after Optima came out, the reviews were still good, so, got my first yellow-top. Forget which series, just know that it was the highest CCA & I could make it fit. That was .... 12(?) years ago.
I travel a lot on extended business NOW, and sometimes, my 75 FJ40 doesn't get driven for ... a L-O-N-G time. When I'm home, though, I will use it for a daily driver (so, a lot of starts). The stereo has a habit of sucking it low (to dead) when I'm gone a long time. I've had it so dead that the stereo was dead, no glimmer from lights, etc - DEAD. (Yeah, I finally put a cut-off switch in there). Yet still been able to charge it back to life, and, with some daily driving, it got back to normal within a week. I've load tested it 3 ways (sears home load tester, battery shop, and my mechanic's pro-shop load tester) and it still is showing upper-90% (avg of 3) of original rating.
On the other hand, I put a dual battery (Yellow-top optimas) system into my OTHER vehicle (yeahhhh ... a CJ7), but, between my travels and the build-up, the first yellow-top that I got for it, ended up sitting for much of 4 years, and then suddenly, it wouldn't hold a charge - had to go to the (newer), back-up battery for starts, and boy, did it make the alternator scream when I threw the switch back. The back-up was bought 4 years later, when I put the dual system in. I replaced the bad one, and have it sitting in the garage. But - bringing it into service, then topping it off, letting it die DEAD (this time from stereo AND analog clock) for extended periods, then topping it off again for short periods (repeat, repeat) - there's no expectation of ANY battery surviving THAT.
NOT a problem since.
My point is, I guess, that my experience with yellow-top optimas has been pretty good, considering. And, although I haven't used sears in a long time, they were good for about 2/3's their warranteed life, and, that their warrantees were expensive to execute. I'm going to try the "bring 'em back to life" things listed previously here on the dead one, and see if it'll work (then, wonder what to do with it...maybe just keep it on trickle ...).
That said, I saw that one person mentioned a "Desulfanator". Others mentioned that batteries have a limitted number of cycles in them.
I've been reading up on desulfanators for a few years, and, they come in 2 .... "flavors". One is built into a trickle-charger (tender) that you plug into your garage wall while parking the vehicle; the other, you wire into your system permanently. This desulfantor actually does it's thing (I think) even while the vehicle is operating. Essentially, the desulfanator pumps reverse current micro-bursts back through your battery (periodically) to reverse the chemical process that occurs in the battery. This not only actually "refreshes" the chemistry, but breaks down the sulfer that starts plating the floor & cells of the battery internals. (Think, "breaks down the plaque in the arteries of your battery"). Sulfer plating on the battery floor that manages to finally reach the sulfer growing on the cell plates (think: "Stalagtites growing and meeting stalagmites") will short a cell out, reducing the battery's total Voltage capacity by that much (Typical auto battery = 6 cells x 2V potential, so - 1 cell shorted = a drop of 2 volts).
There are claims (including purportedly by fleet operators) of being so happy with perfaormance after installing desulfanators into part of their fleet for testing, that they even pulled long-dead (1 or more cells shorted) batteries out of the service-dept junk piles, hooking them on the desulfanator / trickle charger, and resurrecting them to the point of putting them back into fleet service. I have yet to find anything about it (desulfanator) being "not worth it", "useless", etc. Whether anyone feels that it's worth it to potentially have their battery run 2x, 3x, 4x its normal lifetime for them (as opposed to cost / effort to purchase and install in their vehicle) is an individual choice.
Just my $0.02. Suggest that people do their own research before spending $$.
A) Used Top-grade sears batteries for years to get the most CCA's & the best warranty. Ended up executing the warrantys for most of them, even though no winches, heavy duty lights, plow or mega-stereos. This was on a series of CJ-5's & CJ-7's, being used for both - daily drivers and med-level off-roading.
B) About a year after Optima came out, the reviews were still good, so, got my first yellow-top. Forget which series, just know that it was the highest CCA & I could make it fit. That was .... 12(?) years ago.
I travel a lot on extended business NOW, and sometimes, my 75 FJ40 doesn't get driven for ... a L-O-N-G time. When I'm home, though, I will use it for a daily driver (so, a lot of starts). The stereo has a habit of sucking it low (to dead) when I'm gone a long time. I've had it so dead that the stereo was dead, no glimmer from lights, etc - DEAD. (Yeah, I finally put a cut-off switch in there). Yet still been able to charge it back to life, and, with some daily driving, it got back to normal within a week. I've load tested it 3 ways (sears home load tester, battery shop, and my mechanic's pro-shop load tester) and it still is showing upper-90% (avg of 3) of original rating.
On the other hand, I put a dual battery (Yellow-top optimas) system into my OTHER vehicle (yeahhhh ... a CJ7), but, between my travels and the build-up, the first yellow-top that I got for it, ended up sitting for much of 4 years, and then suddenly, it wouldn't hold a charge - had to go to the (newer), back-up battery for starts, and boy, did it make the alternator scream when I threw the switch back. The back-up was bought 4 years later, when I put the dual system in. I replaced the bad one, and have it sitting in the garage. But - bringing it into service, then topping it off, letting it die DEAD (this time from stereo AND analog clock) for extended periods, then topping it off again for short periods (repeat, repeat) - there's no expectation of ANY battery surviving THAT.
NOT a problem since.
My point is, I guess, that my experience with yellow-top optimas has been pretty good, considering. And, although I haven't used sears in a long time, they were good for about 2/3's their warranteed life, and, that their warrantees were expensive to execute. I'm going to try the "bring 'em back to life" things listed previously here on the dead one, and see if it'll work (then, wonder what to do with it...maybe just keep it on trickle ...).
That said, I saw that one person mentioned a "Desulfanator". Others mentioned that batteries have a limitted number of cycles in them.
I've been reading up on desulfanators for a few years, and, they come in 2 .... "flavors". One is built into a trickle-charger (tender) that you plug into your garage wall while parking the vehicle; the other, you wire into your system permanently. This desulfantor actually does it's thing (I think) even while the vehicle is operating. Essentially, the desulfanator pumps reverse current micro-bursts back through your battery (periodically) to reverse the chemical process that occurs in the battery. This not only actually "refreshes" the chemistry, but breaks down the sulfer that starts plating the floor & cells of the battery internals. (Think, "breaks down the plaque in the arteries of your battery"). Sulfer plating on the battery floor that manages to finally reach the sulfer growing on the cell plates (think: "Stalagtites growing and meeting stalagmites") will short a cell out, reducing the battery's total Voltage capacity by that much (Typical auto battery = 6 cells x 2V potential, so - 1 cell shorted = a drop of 2 volts).
There are claims (including purportedly by fleet operators) of being so happy with perfaormance after installing desulfanators into part of their fleet for testing, that they even pulled long-dead (1 or more cells shorted) batteries out of the service-dept junk piles, hooking them on the desulfanator / trickle charger, and resurrecting them to the point of putting them back into fleet service. I have yet to find anything about it (desulfanator) being "not worth it", "useless", etc. Whether anyone feels that it's worth it to potentially have their battery run 2x, 3x, 4x its normal lifetime for them (as opposed to cost / effort to purchase and install in their vehicle) is an individual choice.
Just my $0.02. Suggest that people do their own research before spending $$.
- Thread starter
- #25
Jonny, I would be very interested in your results...may help guide me.
As to your queston re: your batt., anything above 12.5 & you are good.
Let us know if you get yours back up/running.
Good luck, John
And USMC, very interesting post...thanks
Excellent information
Very helpful.I certainly will keep you posted. And actually, I noticed when I took the pic that mine was in fact 11.19v...
So we shall see
Regards,
Jonny
I did some research on Desulfanators last year and it's not too hard to find evidence on both sides. Some of the tests performed found very little change with a Desulfanator. The jury is still out. I just don't want to make this more than it is.
I left my yellow top hooked up when I did some welding on my frame(bracing for ps) and I thought I killed it, I was bummed because I had just bought it a week earlier. I couldn't find my reciept, I was going to try and exchange it, it would barely show a hint of a glow on a simple light tester and it wouldn't charge on my old battery charger. I let it sit for a few days, not hooked to the charger, don't know how this works but it came back to life enough to almost turn the engine over, so I threw the charger back on and sure enough it is as if nothing ever happenned to it. I have two red tops and the one yellow and I think they are awesome batteries, never had an issue besides the one time, I guess I arced it out, now anytime I weld I double check and unhook both the pos. and neg. leads. I got an isolator kit for dual batteries, and plan on running one red top for normal operation and one yellow for my winch and lights, I just have to fab up a battery box to hold two batteries and wire it up. I also got a switch I am going to mount on the dash as a complete disconnect, for working on it and as a safety precaution in the event of a roll over.
Hello John,
I know you’ve already been assisted by our customer service folks and some other informative people here as well. Generally speaking, a fully-charged YellowTop will read approximately 13.0-13.2 volts. If it can be charged to that level and hold close to that level for 12-24 hours, while not connected to a vehicle or any other load, it should be ok. If it holds a charge when disconnected from a vehicle, but loses voltage when connected, there is likely a parasitic draw in the vehicle. It sounds like your battery just wasn’t able to hold a charge.
The key to long battery life, regardless of brand, is always maintaining at least 12.4 volts. When batteries drop below that level, sulfation does begin to diminish capacity and longevity. Charging a sulfated Optima at 10 amps for up to two hours (monitoring frequently) can help break up this sulfation, but preventing it from ever happening in the first place is a much better option. If you have any other battery-related questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries
I know you’ve already been assisted by our customer service folks and some other informative people here as well. Generally speaking, a fully-charged YellowTop will read approximately 13.0-13.2 volts. If it can be charged to that level and hold close to that level for 12-24 hours, while not connected to a vehicle or any other load, it should be ok. If it holds a charge when disconnected from a vehicle, but loses voltage when connected, there is likely a parasitic draw in the vehicle. It sounds like your battery just wasn’t able to hold a charge.
The key to long battery life, regardless of brand, is always maintaining at least 12.4 volts. When batteries drop below that level, sulfation does begin to diminish capacity and longevity. Charging a sulfated Optima at 10 amps for up to two hours (monitoring frequently) can help break up this sulfation, but preventing it from ever happening in the first place is a much better option. If you have any other battery-related questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.
Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries
- Thread starter
- #30
Thanks Jim, my battery may be too far gone but from the info I've gathered (mostly from the good folks here) my recovery plan is as follows :
1) buy a C Tek 800 battery charger, remove battery from truck & charge until it can hold 12.5 or above.
This may take a day, or many days. If it won't get there I'll dump it & get a new battery.
I live in the sticks & a C Tek type or similar charger is not avaliable locally. I will be going to So. Cal. late next week & will purchase the charger & begin the process next weekend.
I've decided on the C Tek, it's one of 3 that Optima 'unofficially' recommended & I've fallen for the hype on their ads I've seen over the years. I currently have 4 Yellow Tops, so I have convinced myself I need one of these anyway. Will report the results of the recovery attempt.
John
1) buy a C Tek 800 battery charger, remove battery from truck & charge until it can hold 12.5 or above.
This may take a day, or many days. If it won't get there I'll dump it & get a new battery.
I live in the sticks & a C Tek type or similar charger is not avaliable locally. I will be going to So. Cal. late next week & will purchase the charger & begin the process next weekend.
I've decided on the C Tek, it's one of 3 that Optima 'unofficially' recommended & I've fallen for the hype on their ads I've seen over the years. I currently have 4 Yellow Tops, so I have convinced myself I need one of these anyway. Will report the results of the recovery attempt.
John
Well guys, I have been doing a mixture of trickle charge at 2a and regular charge at 6a for several days now. The battery started at 11.19 as per my picture above, and right now I have it up to 12.55. I don't have my 40 here otherwise I would run it and try and get a complete charge on it. I will keep doing my charging for another couple of days and hopefully this battery will be fully back from the dead 
Jonny
Jonny
- Thread starter
- #32
Well guys, I have been doing a mixture of trickle charge at 2a and regular charge at 6a for several days now. The battery started at 11.19 as per my picture above, and right now I have it up to 12.55. I don't have my 40 here otherwise I would run it and try and get a complete charge on it. I will keep doing my charging for another couple of days and hopefully this battery will be fully back from the dead
Jonny
Using my batt. as a guide, your real test will be after you take it off the charger for a day. Mine would be at 12.80 or so when first taken off the charger, but overnight it would always fall back to 11.88. Same pattern/results 3 or 4 times. Good luck.
John
I tried every tricks that I found on the internet trying to bring a like new red top to hold charge but no such luck. Yeah, I could get the battery to 12.8 Volts but it didn't hold the charge and had no juice to start the truck.
Last week, Sears got 9 bucks off their 189 buck platinum battery which I will get the next time. Btw, I bought one of Craftman smart chargers which costs around 100 bucks or so. This charger is so nice.
Last week, Sears got 9 bucks off their 189 buck platinum battery which I will get the next time. Btw, I bought one of Craftman smart chargers which costs around 100 bucks or so. This charger is so nice.
- Thread starter
- #35
Test fail
Funny...quoting myself, but to wrap this thread up at least from my point of view, my Optima is 'done for'.
I bought the C Tek 800 & have had it on this Yellow Top for a week @ .08 amps. Took it off today, it was sitting @ 12.99....but dropped back to 11.88 after 2 hours.
I don't blame the C Tek, either the Yellow Top was too far gone or I put it to a final death with my old charger @ 10 amps for too long.
Time for a new battery.
John
Funny...quoting myself, but to wrap this thread up at least from my point of view, my Optima is 'done for'.
I bought the C Tek 800 & have had it on this Yellow Top for a week @ .08 amps. Took it off today, it was sitting @ 12.99....but dropped back to 11.88 after 2 hours.
I don't blame the C Tek, either the Yellow Top was too far gone or I put it to a final death with my old charger @ 10 amps for too long.
Time for a new battery.
John