Can anyone help me figure out if its possible to replace this piece? (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter lc80vinhy
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TRDdrew
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that's part of the passenger wheel well/apron you can try and source a good used one, it does unbolt from the truck but may be a big hassle or just cut out the rust and weld in a patch. Shouldn't be too difficult considering there is access to both sides of the panel
Toyota 53710-60163 Apron Sub-Assy, Front Fender, RH - the part has been discontinued
Toyota 53710-60163 Apron Sub-Assy, Front Fender, RH - the part has been discontinued
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Old Nick
GOLD Star
x2
I scored inner fenders from a part-out here. Mine were too far gone to mess with.
@lc80vinhy that is salvageable, for sure, with a little cutting and welding. If you don't want to go that route, check the part-outs.
Mine was rusted through at that spot. I cut it out, fastened mesh over the opening and patched it with fiberglass bondo. I put long hair fiberglass on the underside with a thick coat of black asphalt undercoat. Imho, MUCH easier than replacing the inner fender. Mine looks great but in that spot it doesn't need to.
Old Nick
GOLD Star
You'll be a good welder by the time that you've sorted that stuff out (if you aren't already). Look for a part out and buy good rust free panels. I went through that same chit with my wife's 80. Save that rig!
Old Nick
GOLD Star
My post came in just after yours re: welding. Heck yeah. Go for it. Don't run your flux core to hot, or you'll burn holes through your panels. Practice on some junk until you get the "feel" of it (and until you get to know the sound of a good weld being laid down). Rooting for you.
Not sure if you have/use the RS3000 alarm but.....when I had my carpet out, I put about 10' of wire on to the gray wire (antenna) of the RS3000 and looped it around between the new felt and the carpet. it significantly increased the range of the fob.
- Thread starter
- #11
oh wow im assuming its that black box under the driver seat right? i dont have the fobs but once all the major suspension/engine/body rust is taken car of i was looking into getting the fob if its doable with that black box i have!
SPEED HOLES!
But seriously, that inner fender isn't load bearing and the repair is mostly cosmetic besides helping to keep mud and water spray from the tire out of the engine bay. Like communism, rust may take a rest, but it never sleeps.
But seriously, that inner fender isn't load bearing and the repair is mostly cosmetic besides helping to keep mud and water spray from the tire out of the engine bay. Like communism, rust may take a rest, but it never sleeps.
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Just sell it and buy a rust free one. That’s a parts truck and a waste of time when you can buy rust free 80’s still for decent $$$.
My opinion.
Cheers
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I guess man, if you didn’t pay much for it and want to learn.
Don’t start with flux core though, just spend the money on a tank and setup your machine in gas. Thank me later.
Cheers
Flux core will be ok if you just make tack welds on top of each other and let cool every so often. If you can reach the back of the panel put some copper or aluminum bar backing the weld to absorb heat. I seen my old roommate replace his quarter panel on a 68 Camaro and ran a almost continuous bead with flux core and the whole welded area of the panel sunk in and looked like the inside of a boat hull.
Agree with above, try to find rust-free replacements (entire sections or cuts) for all those areas.
This autobody guy has some good videos, here's one:
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FWIW you can make your own copper "spoon" if you get a 12" flat bar of copper, cut it to length, bend it as you want, drill a couple of holes, then attach a generic valve handle for example (all components ordered from McMaster in USA).
This came in handy when butt welding (held below/behind the gap) but also for very thin areas that were rusty but which I didn't cut out completely (a lawnmower deck, not my 80). The thin areas (rust craters) would blow out here and there so when I went back to fill them in just held the copper (with a welding glove) under that area and built up weld around the hole until they were closed.
This could be useful if closing up holes in the body ie: Fender Flare clip holes, roof rack holes, body molding holes on a LX450, ---
This is the "working" side: ie: hold the "spoon" upside down to get your hand away from the backside of what you're welding
This autobody guy has some good videos, here's one:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FWIW you can make your own copper "spoon" if you get a 12" flat bar of copper, cut it to length, bend it as you want, drill a couple of holes, then attach a generic valve handle for example (all components ordered from McMaster in USA).
This came in handy when butt welding (held below/behind the gap) but also for very thin areas that were rusty but which I didn't cut out completely (a lawnmower deck, not my 80). The thin areas (rust craters) would blow out here and there so when I went back to fill them in just held the copper (with a welding glove) under that area and built up weld around the hole until they were closed.
This could be useful if closing up holes in the body ie: Fender Flare clip holes, roof rack holes, body molding holes on a LX450, ---
This is the "working" side: ie: hold the "spoon" upside down to get your hand away from the backside of what you're welding
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Yes. Some guys rip it out, but mine works just fine. I bought an aftermarket fob (dont remember which one) and it worked. You'll want to read the RS3000 programming instructions.
- Thread starter
- #18
i feel like it was an okay deal...
1997 land cruiser interior was in decent shape ,triple locked, 40th anniversary, engine ran smooth and great, no leaks, everything was working it was just those couple rust spots.. all that for 7k. thoughts?
I have a rust rolling chassis with body shell (black) locked axles that is for sale for $4700. Let me know if you are interested.
Yikes..
