Camping shower, heated from the vehicle radiator coolant system. (1 Viewer)

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G'Day Fella's,

Just in the process of getting together some ideas on how to achieve this, and was looking for some input from those that have Been There, Done That.
Any advice on which Heat Exchange units and Pumping/Pressurised water systems that you have experience with, would be appreciated.

Merry Christmas and Best Wishes for 2018 to all.
Homer
 
I can look up which models I bought tomorrow, but as far as how it works, I really like mine. We use a 5 gal. can of water for two showers. I use @ a gal. and my wife gets the rest. :) fair enough. Here's some pictures of the pump and exchanger mounted on a tray I made. Hot and cold hoses run to the front apron with quick disconnects. It might not the best system going, but I get clean and have some fun too.

IMG_3116.JPG


IMG_3112.JPG
 
I have been wondering about doing this sort of thing, but having the option of using a Webasto heater to warm the water instead of having to use the engine. Not sure if it would work, but it would be a good summer use for a Webasto!
 
G'Day Fella's,

Thank You for that info and image Scrapdaddy.
Thats a really nice/tidy set up you have there!

I just ordered a 30 Plate www.scintex.com.au (in Australia) brand (model#- SHE30PB) heat exchange (190 x 75 x 90mm -7 1/2" x 3" x 3 1/2"), for this project.
I also (like yourself), plan to use a Shurflo water pump.

My biggest issue, is where to mount these under the bonnet (it's already pretty full).
But I will work this out, once I have the HE and pump in hand.

Merry Christmas to you all,
Homer
 
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I have been wondering about doing this sort of thing, but having the option of using a Webasto heater to warm the water instead of having to use the engine. Not sure if it would work, but it would be a good summer use for a Webasto!
Webasto pumps coolant through it. If you ran a disconnect and or bypass through an exchanger it would work, otherwise
you'd be heating your engine every time you ran it in the summer.
 
Webasto pumps coolant through it. If you ran a disconnect and or bypass through an exchanger it would work, otherwise
you'd be heating your engine every time you ran it in the summer.

I was thinking that a couple of heater valves (or something similar) could be used to isolate the heater and divert a portion of the coolant through a heat exchanger. However, the more I think about it the more it seems like a complicated way to go about heating water.
 
G'Day Fella's,

I have made some progress on this project, and now have both the Heat Exchange (SCINTEX model- SHE30PB), and the Shurflo (#4009) 12 Volt pump..... and a bit of an idea, of what pipe fittings etc, I require
So far, the biggest problem, has been finding a location under the BJ73 Bonnet, to mount these devices.
I decided to make a replacement Top LHS radiator support flat washer, that the Heat Exchange (HE) support cradle/bracket, can be welded to.

SCINTEX SHE30PB.JPG


SCINTEX SHE30PB  lable.JPG


Please note the existing factory 40mm Dia radiator flat washer, and the replacement webbed bracket, that the HE support cradle/bracket is welded (only Tac welded at present) to.
HE bracket.JPG


A couple of views of the support cradle/bracket (minus the top HE retainer bracket. I still need to make it).
DSCN2168.JPG


Heat exchange in unpainted support bracket.JPG
 
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G'Day again,

Here are some additional images and detail of what I've been up to of late.

The Shurflo pump, HE and some pipe fittings.
Pump, Heat Exchange and some fittings.JPG


The HE support bracket, and some of the protective foam I plan to use.
Heat exchanghe bracket and foam padding.JPG


Three images, sneaking up on the HE, mounted in it's final resting place (just a Dummy Run).
Note the ratchet spanner, is on the top LHS radiator support bracket retaining nut (which tightens down on the replacement bracket that I made).
HE bracket in place (2).JPG


HE bracket in place (3).JPG


HE bracket in place.JPG
 
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I am aiming to do a similar set up .
using the motor to heat up a SS tank of water .
May I ask you what inside diameter you found on the rubber tube coming from the motor block ?

Thanks Renago
 
G'Day Renago,

I plan to tap into the heater hose line, that comes out of the water pump, that supplies the cabin heater core.
This hose is 16mm or 5/8", inside diameter (ID).

Stay tuned, as I hope to get to this soon, and I'll post some "Before" and "After" images of this altered hose/pipe work.

Hope that helps

D'oh!
Homer
 
Hi Homer .

thanks for the prompt reply .
I was thinking to get the Hot water from the return hose of the cabin heater !
so to increase the temperature at a lower rate .
on/off
and also how strong will be the flow , and consequently how warm will be the output .
certainly less efficient .
diametral different thinking .

the reason for mine choice is the big difference of temperature from the cooling hot water ( sorry for this word play ), and the cold water which we should heat .
the result is that you heat up water very quickly and very hot , as it is difficult to balance the final temperature .
Unless you have 2 pumps and 2 tanks .
tried once with a car of a friend , almost got burned !!
i also have a similar heat exchanger .
can't remember how many levels .

pls give me your thoughts and critics .

bye Renago
 
Renago, by tapping into the Supply water, to the cabin heater core, you can then use the heater control in the dash, to control the shower water temperature.

Hope that helps

D'oh!
Homer
 
Hi Homer

yes , that's my idea .
the water out of the motor block is aprox 80 -85 C , if we use that temperature to heat up the cold water we will presumably get a 50-60 C water-
that is TOO hot for a shower.
for this reason I am thinking to use the return from the cabin heater .
less warm .
you should be able to regulate the temperature ,hopefully.
and you can always shut it off ,avoiding the water to go through the heat exchanger .
you will also give the motor a cooler water by return .

But this is only theoretical .
I have not donate job yet .
just my 2 cents .

Renago
 
I did this on my 4runner. Heat exchanger, pump and some quick disconnects. I fill a bucket and pump from that through the exchanger and back into the bucket till it's all nice and hot (and most importantly the same temperature). Then turn the truck off and pump out of the bucket onto your head. I only have about $120 into the set up.

Edit: The "water on demand" design is difficult to regulate. Engine speed coupled with the opening and closing of the thermostat will change temperature. Turning the water up or down will create temperature changes and with the water off you will get a hot spot in the water supply. All of that is why I heat up a bucket and use that with the engine off. :cheers:
 
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Ok Jerod
But from which point of the cooling system did you pick up the hot water ?
i understand that you need to pass the cold water a few times in the bucket before being able to have a nice shower .
is that right ?
do you think we ca have a warm shower water in only 1 pass ?

thanks Renato
 
G'Day Fella's,

From what I can work out, the point where the water for the Cabin Heating Core (CHC) is, is under the thermostat.
So when you start up the cold engine, the water in the engine and CHC, heats up first before the Thermostat opens.
You could also tap into the Return line from the CHC but in my instance the Supply line, is closer to the Heat Exchange location, by 600mm/24", so..........

Doh!
Homer
 
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G'Day Fella's,

I installed the HE and piped it up, and there are no engine coolant leaks.

First, I had to locate an additional mounting point, to assist in carrying the weight of the HE, when full of water.
I decided to use the LHS Lower radiator bracket, as like the Top radiator bracket, it to is rubber mounted. FYI, I replaced the 40mmish long factory M8 bolt, with a 50mm long M8 bolt.
This is so that I can bolt the support bracket to this longer bolt

Lower mount.JPG


Lower mount close up.JPG


Here are some images of the HE, and the closed cell foam (Blue=6mm, Grey=3mm), I used underneath (6mm) and around the sides (3mm).
This is obviously to assisting dampening vibrations and also to isolate the HE from it's support bracket.
6mm Closed cell foam padding.JPG


Please note the White painted lower support bracket below the HE support cradle/frame, and the Black painted tab, welded on the lower right of the HE support cradle/frame.
DSCN2185.JPG


Here, the HE is bolted in place and the brass pipe fittings have been installed and pointing in the desired direction, for the various hoses.
DSCN2190.JPG
 
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G'Day Again,

Before I started piping the HE up, I first removed and replaced the 1/2" JIT/BSP to 13mm barbed straight fitting, with a Brass 90 degree elbow and 1/2" barbed fitting.
This factory pipe fitting, is in the Vertical plane and comes out of the water pump (in the center of the image)
DSCN2188.JPG


DSCN2193.JPG


Here you can see the 90 degree Brass elbow and 13mm barbed fitting in place, and the factory metal heater pipe above it.
DSCN2195.JPG


These are the heater hoses I used, to pipe between the engine and the HE.
Both are from Holden Commodore (Australian GM models) from a V6 and V8 engines.
The top hose (with the Red tape on it), actually has two 90 ish degree bends, on the other end. And that is the end that I ended up using, on the Return line.
DSCN2196.JPG


D'oh! I need to take another image, of the new heater hose set up in place, at the engine end.

In the mean time, here is the HE all piped up from the car Radiator/cooling system (and the Blue shower hoses also in place).
DSCN2201.JPG
 
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G'Day Again,

Here are a couple of images, of the heater hose connection lay out, at the water pump/engine end.

This image gives you a good view of how both the HE Supply and Return hoses are connected to the existing pipe work (above/Return), and the new Brass pipe fitting (below/Supply).
DSCN2202.JPG


This image, gives you a better view of the return line back to the engine.
You can see the 2 x 90 degree bends in the hose, and how I used these to get the job done.
DSCN2203.JPG


Hope that helps

Now for the shower water Pump, side of this system.............

D'oh!
Homer
 
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