Camping Equipment for Our Trucks (2 Viewers)

[jamesurq]

I have a 100w panel for my trailer - haven't hooked it up yet.

Fixed panel, with charge controller - was about $170 with shipping. I don't think a 15 or 30 watt panel will be worth your time.

 

[NC LX]

I have a 100w panel for my trailer - haven't hooked it up yet.

Fixed panel, with charge controller - was about $170 with shipping. I don't think a 15 or 30 watt panel will be worth your time.

Yea I don't either. It would be nice to have something fixed between the roof bars so it's not seen from the ground and can be left charging when away from the 80.

 

[jfz80]

its a slick mounting idea just remember solar efficiencies go down fast when not directly aimed at light source and the briefcase style allows you to park however you wish/need and adj PV panel separately as time passes..... albeit at a risk cost if leaving it unattended

 

[jamesurq]

its a slick mounting idea just remember solar efficiencies go down fast when not directly aimed at light source and the briefcase style allows you to park however you wish/need and adj PV panel separately as time passes..... albeit at a risk cost if leaving it unattended

did some quick research on the amount of energy increase if you track the sun on a horizontal axis - looks like it's about a 25-30% increase in output. I believe the panels are rated based on a fixed angle - so the impression is that a 100 w panel if constantly turned toward the sun will output 120-130w (in a perfect world). No indication of how much power loss there is if you don't angle it at all - IE: straight up.... but I would imagine it's significant. So.. a fixed 100w panel pointed straight up will still probably give you 40 or 50w output, I would guess.. better than nothing.

 

[NC LX]

I guess it depends on what your needs are. If you take somebody that is trying to offset power 100%, living off grid for extended periods, following the sun would be beneficial.

I've read that you should assume a 3rd loss from solar. If you have a 100watt solar panel expect 60watts. Maybe what I read was referring to a fixed mount.

 

[weejub]

I had a LOT of great advice from @Cruiserdrew on another post about dual batteries, but about solar, so wanted to share a couple links he gave me:

Rubicon Solar Power Experience

Camp Solar Setup

On the Tundra, @Steelman provided me with two really nice rhino racks that I am thinking about using for solar panels.

 

[lumbee1]

Has anyone run solar panels? I was thinking after the M&G this weekend a small solar panel and charge controller would be nice to sit on the roof and charge my battery throughout the day. I was just running the fridge this weekend, but when you are parked for a few days in warmer weather, it would help keep everything running for your needs at night while camping.

Currently my needs haven't exceeded more than what my 800watt inverter provides off my deep cycle.

I was thinking maybe a 15 or 30watt to help trickle charge. A charge controller and a small panel is pretty inexpensive when considering the insurance it would provide.

I might have to look at a solar solution myself. Even though the temp only got to 60 on Saturday, my battery was drained enough that the Cruiser almost didn't start. In all honesty, my battery is OLD and needs to be replaced.

 

[lumbee1]

I might have to look at a solar solution myself. Even though the temp only got to 60 on Saturday, my battery was drained enough that the Cruiser almost didn't start. In all honesty, my battery is OLD and needs to be replaced.

And after some quick reading, a two battery solution might be better for me.

 

[weejub]

And after some quick reading, a two battery solution might be better for me.

I would like to get the two battery system done, then add solar if it makes sense, later.

There is a lot of shade in NC and I like parking in the shade vs searching out sun, but . . I can get over that I guess

 

[little_joe]

Or just get an AntiGravity XP 3 or 10 - MICRO-START PPS PRODUCTS – Antigravity Batteries They are small enough to carry in any bag (backpack, murse, etc) and effortlessly jump my V8. They can be used to charge devices, then recharge off a running vehicle.

 

[weejub]

So you could keep the one battery system; maybe move to a deep cycle blue top marine battery for your car - and dont' give a crap if it gets too low to need a jump start, just use the Micro Start to help if needed?

If I had a big Li-Ion, I would maybe use it for my cpap, too. But then I would have my starter battery sucking power all night, and I would be sucking power all night.

I think the Micro Start looks like the "best in breed" of the Li-Ion starter batteries that I have seen so far. There is another brand at Costco right now, but it is small.

I think I still would like to have a double battery system, but also the Micro Start

 

[JToobe]

Or just get an AntiGravity XP 3 or 10 - MICRO-START PPS PRODUCTS – Antigravity Batteries They are small enough to carry in any bag (backpack, murse, etc) and effortlessly jump my V8. They can be used to charge devices, then recharge off a running vehicle.

Can vouch for this....we have 3, one for the queen and princess's vehicles. Have come in handy on many occasions. Dad has jumper cables because I'm primitive!

 

[forrest5000]

Can vouch for this....we have 3, one for the queen and princess's vehicles. Have come in handy on many occasions. Dad has jumper cables because I'm primitive!

Same here , Joe and Jeff are correct .love mine.

 

[erymer]

Power Systems: 12v, Solar, Gen. - Expedition Portal

This might be a good place to look as well. Once the rack is built on my trailer I'll be adding something as well.

 

[lumbee1]

I am already looking to build a DIY solar solution for cheap. I'm looking for at MPPT controllers and individual solar cells that I will initially connect to the battery with alligator clips. I'm trying to keep this project to less than $100.

 

[pawwright]

I am already looking to build a DIY solar solution for cheap. I'm looking for at MPPT controllers and individual solar cells that I will initially connect to the battery with alligator clips. I'm trying to keep this project to less than $100.

very cool. If you find a MPPT controller and can keep it less than $100 please send me the link for the MPPT controller, if you would. thanks.

 

[lumbee1]

very cool. If you find a MPPT controller and can keep it less than $100 please send me the link for the MPPT controller, if you would. thanks.

I've found two so far: one being $27 and the other around $40. These are true MPPT controllers and not PWM.

I just need something large enough to offset the current draw from the fridge.

 

[NC LX]

@lumbee1 I'm curious to see what you come up with. Offsetting current draw from the fridge is my main concern.

 

[lumbee1]

I've got three options for battery maintenance with a fridge in remote locations:

1) Solar power - well... solar is NOT dependable unless you have a large charging solution that can overcome the day to day conditions. Most solar products are advertised on ideal conditions. Panel A is X Vmp and Y Imp. That little "mp" means maximum power or absolutely ideal conditions it will produce X volts at Y current. A MPPT controller and 30W panel ($100 solution) would produce approximately 2A which would offset the drain of 12V fridge on a cloudless 70 degree day. The 43qt edgestar pulls 1.87A average with 47% duty cycle. On the other side of the coin, what about the days when it is 95 degrees and overcast? Solar won't help and the fridge will be running harder for longer to keep the contents cool. IMO solar is not ready yet. How often do we see ideal conditions and are we going to take the time to get up from the campfire and reposition the panel after a few beers? There are just too many variables at play. Besides I don't want to lug around a 100 watt 4 foot long by 2 foot wide fragile solar panel.

2) Portable lithium jump starter - this is a small package and there are a wide variety of affordable solutions that can jump start a Land Cruiser. The biggest problem and an issue I'm currently facing, how many jumps can you get off this portable solution if you have a bad battery before it is also dead? My battery is dying and I know I need to replace it soon. The last time I jumped the Cruiser it took longer than I expected and that was from my wife's Odyssey. I haven't done much research into these but I wouldn't want this to be my only solution.

3) Dual battery - the tried and true staple of overlanding and 12V fridge owners. Dual redundant solutions with house load on one battery and recreation load on the other. You always have a backup. This is the most expensive solution (possibly). Source a 91/92 battery box, buy a battery, and buy the components for a dual battery setup along with relocation brackets for wiper fluid. Scoring a 91/92 for cheap is possible. Interstate blims or a battery from Costco are very affordable. Wiring through fleabay. I could make this work. When the fridge drains the second battery, no problem. Start the truck and charge it back up again. I would feel safest with this solution. Best part, it doesn't take up interior space.

So I will be assembling a dual battery solution on the cheap instead. Later down the road, a small 30 watt solar panel might go on the roof rack to help slow the drain of the second battery.


BTW, if I had an RV or camper with a flat top, I would cover the top in solar panels. The panels would act as a barrier to heat and provide electricity.

 

[BMThiker]

This is how I am doing my dual battery on the cheap...I stole this from someone else's write up, but I confirmed with the guys at ACC and they said this is the way they recommend doing it now, no complicated sensors or displays....K.I.S.S.
I got this 200A solenoid for $43-ish
Amazon.com: PAC PAC-200 200-Amp Relay Battery Isolator: PAC: Car Electronics
And these ANL fuse blocks with 100A fuses (sold in pairs for $14)
Amazon.com: InstallGear 0/2/4 Gauge Ga ANL Fuse Holder + 100 Amp ANL Fuses (2 Pack): Car Electronics
So other than the 4ga wire, you have a kit for about $60. The only "downside" is you still have to wire a winch directly to primary battery to keep it from overloading the solenoid in the second battery loop. But you can wire all the other accessories to the secondary.