Camp Solar Setup

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ntsaint

ntsaint

Don't Assume I Know The Basics...
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I've done some searching here, as well as basic overall research, but can't seem to come to a decision on a basic solar setup for my 100 series.

My needs are pretty simple. I have an ARB fridge and a half dozen LED lights I run while on the trail. I also use an IPad for navigation, and have a mobile phone with me. Goal is to offset the draw these items may have if we are at camp for an extended period of time. My Group31 marine battery does just fine on short overnight trips.

I would like to stay with a flexible panel if possible. A hard panel doesn't seem too practical for me.

So, my question is, does anyone run something similar to the above? If so, can you give me a head start or push in the right direction? What components to purchase, sizing, etc?

Thanks,
 
So let's be clear. You want to run a fridge and charge an ipad while the truck is not running?

Do you have 1 or two batteries? You should have 2, but you might do ok with 1 and careful management. If you have 2, you can separate duties, which allows you to take certain liberties and still re-start.

I am going to assume, that you need about a 100 watt panel. This is based on my experience:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rubicon-solar-power-experience.867614/

The bad news is that if you want a folding small panel, is that they are hideously expensive-like $10 per watt:
http://www.amazon.com/PowerFilm-Foldable-Solar-Panel-Adapter/dp/B00JOOFG8O/?tag=ihco-20

More realistically, rigid panels are cheaper and more efficient, and maybe $2 per watt if folding in half:
http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Monocrystalline-Foldable-Suitcase/dp/B00HR8YNK6/?tag=ihco-20

If you don't need folding, rigid panels are your cost effective best bet for $1.50 per watt:
http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Solar/dp/B009Z6CW7O/?tag=ihco-20

So it's a matter of trade offs. The power film panels are very nice, light and space efficient, but crazy $$. For me, the value was in a folding 100 watt panel and a good charge controller.

And BTW-a charge controller is not negotiable. You need it to protect your batteries. I used a Morningstar pwm controller, but you can improve efficiency a bit with a MPPT controller which is much more expensive. Most people think that MPPT is worth it over 400 watts but you have to decide.

Good luck, the whole solar interaction with your camping experience is fun. You could probably run just a fridge with no extra with a 60 watt panel, but if you want to be certain, and charge an extra device here or there, you need about 100-120 watts. If you want to run an inverter, with it's built in inefficiencies, you need even more solar.
 
@Cruiserdrew you mind posting up a pic or two of your setup? Specifically the controller / relay wiring? I'm wondering how you protected the controller from the water, condensation, etc, if mounting right by the battery?
 
So I have 4 trucks and one solar set up, so it isn't hard mounted. @concretejungle has the same charge controller hard mounted to his firewall near the brake booster and it does fine there. Maybe he will chime in-he runs 2 60 watt rigid panels with good success.

What I did was mount the charge controller in a project box with ventilation holes and ran the wires out of the box terminating in Anderson Power Poles. The controller and project box travel inside the folding panel. In use, I put the project box/controller near the battery and just run wires to it. The battery has a permanent jumper that plugs in first, that turns on the electronics of the controller. Then the solar panel plugs into the box, which brings in the power from the panel.

A couple of other things. While keeping wire runs short is a good plan, the most important wire runs to keep short are those from the battery to the controller. That minimizes voltage losses where it is critical and allows for the most rapid recharging of your batteries. With that said, I also have a jumper from my inside fuse panel, so that I can put the controller inside the truck and power the panel, which back feeds to charge the battery. This works well too, since the fridge is drawing power from the panel. So may basic set up is: Panel>25 foot power lead(10 ga)>Charge controller>10 ga jumper> battery.

If you use a Morningstar Sunsaver controller (I have a Sunsaver 10), it has a front mounted thermocouple that is the temperature sensor. If that gets damaged, the charge controller will not work, so you need to mount it in such a way to keep the temp sensor from being bent/damaged.

The folding panel from Renogy that I use has been very nice. The charge controller they sell with the panel is not as good as a Morningstar controller and is confusing to program. They also mount the controller on the back of the panel, which is the worst possible place-no temperature compensation and increased voltage losses from the panel to the battery.

Regarding the wiring-you can minimize losses by up-sizing the wiring. From my panel to the charge controller is 10gauge, and from the controller to the battery is 10 gauge. THis is sufficient because about the maximum amperage you will see into the batteries is 6amps.

I'll get pics later if they would help.
 
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Awesome info, and i really appreciate your help.

If you have pics, that would be great, but don't go too far out of your way to get them, not critical.

Thanks!
 
1439828271220.webp
1439828292723.webp
1439828313683.webp
Here are some pics of the charge controller in the project box and a close up with the lid off. Very easy to move to a different truck and the box protects the controller and especially the thermocouple. It's the small blue thing on the front.
 
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https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/the-rv-battery-charging-puzzle-2/ Read this first-2, 3, or 4 times . There is a lot of good information here that takes time to absorb.
I have the Renology, 100w Boat Solar Kit with the flexible mono panel. It is very light and easy to pack in my 55. I have a duel battery system to run an ARB fridge. 5 days with, reasonable sunshine, and the battery never gets low. I have run without the solar panel for three days but the battery is very low and the fridge cut off setting needs to be on the lowest setting.
 
Probably one of the most clearly written explanations I've ever read, Cruiserdrew. I've been learning as much as I can, I have dual battery, dual winch, NL Weekender fridge, charging ports for camera batteries, phone, tablet.
"So may basic set up is: Panel>25 foot power lead(10 ga)>Charge controller>10 ga jumper> battery."
I have learned that more solar input is better, so 60-100 watts would be a minimum. Would the efficiency be increased by going to 160 watts?
It is nice to hear that a smaller system is sufficient. I have seen set-ups with the CTek 250D installed as a go between the battery and
appliance/s. Is that basically just a unit then that is hard wired without having to plug in at each camp set up, just set up your solar panels
and go?
You had me misunderstanding some things when you were talking about wire lead lengths, but then you have a 25' 10 ga which is what my
understanding is acceptable. So I am glad for that. I currently run 15' 10 ga lead to my fridge off a hot buss from the #2 battery.
I can say, I have the 'Hella' style 12V plugs that came with my NL Fridge. I don't like them, and will be replacing them with simple pigtail plugs.
 
cruiserpilot said:
I have learned that more solar input is better, so 60-100 watts would be a minimum. Would the efficiency be increased by going to 160 watts?
It is nice to hear that a smaller system is sufficient. I have seen set-ups with the CTek 250D installed as a go between the battery and
appliance/s. Is that basically just a unit then that is hard wired without having to plug in at each camp set up, just set up your solar panels
and go?

So I am glad for that. I currently run 15' 10 ga lead to my fridge off a hot buss from the #2 battery.
I can say, I have the 'Hella' style 12V plugs that came with my NL Fridge. I don't like them, and will be replacing them with simple pigtail plugs.
Click to expand...

A 160 watt panel would provide more power. It all depends what you need. For me so far, a 100 watt panel has been sufficient but you may need more. A 100 watt panel will provide almost 6 amps 6-7 hours per day and less but still significant power another 6 hours per day. I figure it's probably close to 50 amp-hours on a good day which is more than double what my fridge actually uses.

I am going to build another system and hard mount it on the truck I take to Baja. It will be two 100 watt panels, wired in series with an MPPT controller (needed with higher nominal voltage). Which BTW, for @ntsaint , you want to be shopping for "12 volt panels" (nominal open circuit voltage 18-20v). Higher voltage panels (like home type panels) are fine, but you need a different and more expensive charge controller to take advantage of the higher open circuit voltage. Some RV set ups use the higher voltage panels, but for most small offroad set ups like ours, "12 volt" panels will be what you want.

I don't know a lot about the Ctek units. They have a good reputation for their battery chargers. The model you list I can't find a ton of info. From the looks of it, the Morningstar controller is MUCH cheaper.

Regarding the plugs, I really like the Anderson powerpoles for their ease of use and standard wiring conventions. All my low voltage gear uses them, which makes it simple to mix, match, add inline power meters, and still keep the system portable for use in different trucks which is a priority for me.

Regarding your power lead to the fridge-it should be fine, in fact overkill, as the fridge only draws about 3 amps when running. It would be better practice though, electrically, to run a fused large wire into the cabin and into a fuse panel. Then run your fridge off the interior fuse panel. In my set ups, I have the house battery wired to a large ANL fuse, and from there 8 gauge wiring across the firewall and into the cabin terminating in a Blue Sea fuse panel. From there I have individual circuits that power my fridge, radio, camp lighting, charger, etc.
 
Solid advice! I haven't had time to set up a fused box internally yet. Its a work in progress, and just been away at work too
much to have the time to come up with a final solution. Location of the fuse box has been an issue, but I'm leaning to a sealed box
under the seats or console. I have a sealed box with contactor and winch wiring against the rear frame and it has proven to
be a good idea.
One consideration I have is I'm not in Baja, but northern BC. Not quite the same sunlight. Do solar panels freeze? Can they be
damaged by being frozen overnight?
Could you post a pic of the Anderson powerpoles you use?
 
106_0109.webp

100 watt foldable one from Renogy.
Engel 45, iphones and ipads, only one battery.
it's stupid simple, so that works for me. Actually works better than my Battery tender at home on shore power.
It's programmable if you get bored at camp, but really..it's perfect out of the box.

has plugs that you can mod to go right into bigger devices if needed, or daisy chain them.

came with a nice foam/hard zippered cover, just not completely sealed, but it doesn't get banged on when in the truck.
 
PabloVTA said:
100 watt foldable one from Renogy.
Engel 45, iphones and ipads, only one battery.
it's stupid simple, so that works for me. Actually works better than my Battery tender at home on shore power.
It's programmable if you get bored at camp, but really..it's perfect out of the box.

has plugs that you can mod to go right into bigger devices if needed, or daisy chain them.

came with a nice foam/hard zippered cover, just not completely sealed, but it doesn't get banged on when in the truck.
Click to expand...


Si Pablo-you're ready for Baja!
 
I have that folding panel too. The controller is NOT weather proof. It is a very nice panel.

I used a MorningStar controller which is "weather resistant" and the electronics are potted, but I still would not want to dunk it under water.

See my first link in post #2 in this thread. I kind of discusses the controller.
 
I have a 100w Renogy rigid panel bolted to a previous and now current roof rack. If you're worried about breakage from flexing up there don't, mine has been up there for two years. It cost $170-ish dollars all in. Panel, charger and cables. Renogy does make a flexible version for about $40-$50 more that I suppose could be mounted right on the roof with some heavy duty 3M tape. Of course that one isn't up on Amazon right now so check again tomorrow because it's always there.

I love having free juice right on the roof so I know that even if I'm sleeping in that morning my battery is getting recharged from all the use I gave it last night.


Here's what I got (actually put out 120w and over 8A of current on the first day)



http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Bundle/dp/B00B8L6EFA/?tag=ihco-20
 
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