calling all internet diagnostics experts!! (1 Viewer)

[Trollhole]

i pulled the pto cover and all looks good, oil in good shape, all teeth present and accounted for w/ no abnormal wear. THere is no debris on either drain plug for tranny or tcase. I am about to pull the transmission top plate, but was trying to figure out for sure if i need to remove the gear sifter (the push and turn trick i hear is a SOB) Ive read you do and then i read you dont; can anyone confirm before i pull the cover as i cant seem to get the selector out and dont want to if i dont have too.

I have always pulled the shifter first. Not that hard. Just have to use an adjustable wrench or channel locks and push down and turn.

You should be able to tell if the pinion is loose by grabbing the companion flange and seeing if there is movement. Could always drop the DS and see if the pinion nut is torqued to FSM specs.

 

[jfz80]

thanks marshall, i pulled the shifter and had a looksee at the transmission gears....and all looked good that i could see??? Only two gears were actually turning that i could inspect all the way around. One set had the finest of nicks in the surface shown in the pic (second diagonal gear from the top, ctr of teeth)but did not feel bad and could barely catch a fingernail on if you tried just right.

Im waiting on some diff studs to come in tomorrow i hope so i can button it back up w/ fresh oil and keep on bangin i guess. I checked for play in the carrier bearings as well as the pinion bearing. Carrier bearings were both tight, no play anywhere inside the diff. The pinion had the ever so slightest movement. If that shifter had to go down 4mm to clear the tabs, id say this was 1mm. Could only feel it, not see it. Im outta guesses now. THere is a driveshaft in Nasheville TN and a third w/ a lincoln locally, but i want to know the problem b4 i start guessing w/ the wallet.

 

[jfz80]

well in typical fashion the studs will not fit, so the saga is destined to continue. I used the part number and specs listed by poser for the studs. 32 mm by 10x1.25 threads. They do not thread into the axle housing and i returned to the NAPA w/ new and old, they tested them both and agreed they are the same and as described above, yet the new studs will not work?? calling automotive fasteners now before they close. I take it these should thread by hand as there is not torx end or similar for installation via tools.

 

[jfz80]

retap threads or restore threads

what would you guys think the best way to proceed from here would be? im really not looking to make more problems out of the situation. The studs from NAPA and MR. T will not thread into the housing, nor will 80% of old studs. They also do not have any tooled end for installation by torx/allen/etc so im thinking they should thread freely.

Seeing as how im buying some sort of new tool today would you guys opt for restoring the threads to 10 x 1.25 or cutting new ones? If i cut new, should i aim for the same pitch, or since its been cut once to i need to redrill and step up a size?

 

[Trollhole]

Retap with original size. Keep it simple.

 

[cruiser4life]

im really not looking to make more problems out of the situation

Ha, ha, these are always my famous last words when I fix something on my 40s. Was telling JP, when I fix something is usually leads to a few new gremlins to chase down and fix.

Good luck with the fix Jason, it looks like you've been hard at work getting it knocked out.

 

[landtank]

if the original threads are M10x1.25 you could use the studs from the exhaust manifold/head on the 80 or the exhaust flange/Y pipe on the 80, which I think is a little shorter, and have a torx head to install them with.

 

[Trollhole]

what would you guys think the best way to proceed from here would be? im really not looking to make more problems out of the situation. The studs from NAPA and MR. T will not thread into the housing, nor will 80% of old studs. They also do not have any tooled end for installation by torx/allen/etc so im thinking they should thread freely.

Seeing as how im buying some sort of new tool today would you guys opt for restoring the threads to 10 x 1.25 or cutting new ones? If i cut new, should i aim for the same pitch, or since its been cut once to i need to redrill and step up a size?

You do know the trick using two nuts to put the studs in. Right?

 

[jfz80]

thanks fellas... i just rumaged up some exhaust manifold bolts from the tacoma fix w/ the torx as well. Yeah im ready to get her off jack stands and outta the front yard, but in true fashion a broken cruiser attracts cruiserheads like flies on poop. Ive met more local cruiser folk this week from living in a less than inconspicuous location here in town. Lots of 60s

troll, thanks for the double nut tip

 

[concretejungle]

rode in the pig yesterday to try and help diagnose the problem.

Noticed several things:

1. it only gets this metal smacking noise/tapping at high RPM range under load. When you let off the accelerator it goes away, also, if you shift gears and lower the RPMs it goes away and then comes back as the rig revvs.

2. The noise to me really sounds like it's coming from the T-case area. It could be bad ujoints but J says he pulled the shaft and they are smooth.

3. With the truck in the air spinning the rear end gets no noise or popping of any kind. Pretty smooth for such an old truck with a bugger welded rear.

4. engaging the 4wd changes nothing.

 

[Trollhole]

Jason. You sure there were not any teeth missing in the tranfer case? It was clean right?

Is this a really loud sound? Can you feel it in the shifter?

Also are your rear tires the same pressure.

 

[concretejungle]

Troll, i do think you can feel it in the shifter or on the case since we drove around with the tunnel cover off. It's pretty loud, not ear busting or anything but noticable for sure.

I think we should measure the rear shaft and see if we can swap one of the 80 rear shafts in to see if it's the DS or not. But, my gut feeling says it's not the DS or the Ujoints.

 

[GXO]

So I might have missed something...but you have a diff that looks like that and you still pulled the tranny and tcase? Eliminate the problems you find, as you find them!

That diff looks horrible!

 

[Southeast Overland]

If you need a new rear diff send me a PM.

 

[concretejungle]

So I might have missed something...but you have a diff that looks like that and you still pulled the tranny and tcase? Eliminate the problems you find, as you find them!

That diff looks horrible!

Yea Dan, you musta missed something..... He pulled the rear end apart. Spun it through it's motions, applied force and the noise would not come from the rear end even though it looks like a welder spooged into the rear diff . The clutch was already bad (from the PPR) so that was the first to be rebuilt. Noise was still there. Rear diff second, Drive shaft third, T-case last.