CAD Google's SketchUp

[Bogo]

Recently I was pointed to Google's SketchUp for doing 3D visual modeling. It is free for personal use. I've been playing with it for 2 days. It is very intuitive and has a simple interface that makes it relatively easy to experiment. It allows for parts. The window in the third image is a part which is included in the first and second images. The red box, which represents a jerry can, is also a separate part. Even the completed truck is a part. They are all just models and treated the same. You can include a model into another model and it acts as a single entity unless you "explode" it.

I've just been using basic SketchUp. They have extensions others have provided. Some time I'll look through them.

The stuff below is some work I've been experimenting with while trying to further the design for a Micro RV on the back of a Toyota '94 4x4 Pickup.

First, the green pickup is a model I grabbed from menu "File>>>3D Warehouse>>>Get Models..." with the search "Toyota pickup". I then exploded it a few times and removed the pickup bed and replaced it with my own back.

Here is the bottom interior of the bed cut off at just above the cab top. The walls would be 1" to 2" thick and insulated so interior dimensions are a bit off. I'm using this model for design verification. Will what I want to do work? is what I'm trying to answer with it. I've already verified that I can fit 2 jerry cans on each side in compartments between the cab and wheel wells. I have to access them through a door that is narrow, but it works. You put the forward one in first and slide it forward. Then you put the rear one in. The red object is a jerry can sized box. I found a "jerry can" model via the search, but it was 8" wide, as well as a bit to tall and wide. So I made a quick and dirty jerry can based on the largest jerry can I know of which is Scepter's water can. It is actually a bit wider than their fuel jerry cans.
#1:

Here is it with the top on. I should put the solar panels on to make it more interesting.
#2:

On the side wall of the RV back is a test window. It is much like a standard RV window and was a real ***** to figure out how to make. I finally figured out that if I made a perimeter of the right shape I could have SketchUp extrude a shape along that perimeter. So I made two mating extrusion shapes then extruded them around the desired perimeter. It roughly mimics what I remember about the shape of a 1600 series double paned RV window from Peninsula Glass. My sizes and thicknesses may be a bit off, but it is close enough for proto work. It also needs the glass split into two panes for sliders and screens added.
#3:

Finally here is a slightly different view with the cut plane, they call them "Section Planes" and "Section Cuts", active and from the side. The "Section Plane" is in blue and where it intersects the model it cuts off view of what is in front of it when it is active. You can hide them yet still have it active like I have in image #1 above.
#4:

If you decide to play with SketchUp I recommend playing the first few introductory tutorial videos. They have a whole library of video tutorials. I watched the first couple, then have been using their online help for learning.

Links to images off my website if your blocked from seeing imageshack.us.
#1: Micro-RV-test-model-01-006.jpg
#2: Micro-RV-test-model-01-006-all.jpg
#3: RV-Window.jpg
#4: Micro-RV-test-model-01-006-side-cut.jpg

 

[spressomon]

Nice work. And I like your project! I've played with this software on my Mac. But I need to spend ALOT more time with it to get where I need to be designing even simple parts. And its not the SketchUp's fault .

 

[e9999]

the side view looks really good!

how many hours to learn and do all this, roughly?

 

[Bogo]

the side view looks really good!

how many hours to learn and do all this, roughly?

I don't think I've spent 10 hours with it so far. I've been fitting in playing with it between doing other things around the farm.

 

[Bogo]

Nice work. And I like your project! I've played with this software on my Mac. But I need to spend ALOT more time with it to get where I need to be designing even simple parts. And its not the SketchUp's fault .

The jerry can shape is a ultra simple part. It is a rectangle with a 1/2" perimeter drawn up to the height of a jerry can. I used dimensions to set the size of the rectangle to 1" smaller than the base size of the jerry can base. Then I applied the offset with a 1/2" offset. Hint: you can type the offset in. Then I used the arc to give each corner a 1/2" radius. After that I erased the original rectangle sides and the corners outside the radiuses. Finally I used push/pull to draw it out to 18.5" high. To get it exactly 18.5" I first pulled it up to a few inches high and then put a dimension along one of the verticle edges. Then I pulled it up the rest of the way till the dimension said 18.5". Eventually I'll go in and chop the top to look like the top of a real jerry can. I just needed a volume so I left it as is.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Thanks Bogo. I downloaded the program at lunch and spent about 30 minutes designing (OK just drawing) a sheet of aluminum for my 4Runner tailgate. I haven't done the tutorials yet but it's pretty intuitive, as you said.

 

[Isotel]

Thats a cool program for free! I built my mock of my Cage, then i got about 80% done with an FJ40, but i could not figure out where to even start on the Hood, so i gave up

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Don't you love Google Sketchup?? I am using it to design a rear bumper for my 60 and I love it. I didn't realize you could get models of whole trucks though! That's badass!!!

 

[Bogo]

You can only get models of trucks if somebody has posted them. I got lucky, but it isn't perfect. Rear axel is off and to narrow. I'll have to get measurements from my truck and fix the model. When I do that I'll also do the tires too.

Today I made measurements off my truck and figured out where to put the frame mounting points on the model. I got some of the data from the body portion of the FSM. I then measured some body points on the truck and model to figure out where and how high the grid of body mount points was to go.

In the image below the 8 circles at the ends of the lines are the frame mounting holes. I have them locked so they can't be modified, yet they can be used as references for other parts to be based on. The other lines you see are part of the network of lines I used for making measurements. There is one hitch to all this. It appears that Toyota has the bed resting on the frame in the middle. The issue is the frame is curved in that portion. They use different heights of hat channels to stiffen and support the bed. They didn't seam fit to tell what the specs are in the FSM and the frame image in the FSM is not to scale.

The issue I've seen is the frame mounting points are wider than I expected. So no jerry cans just behind the cab. On the other hand there is enough space to fit a couple group 31 sized batteries on each side.

 

[Isotel]

here is the FJ40 that i started building.. i guess with more work it could be cool!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Damn. I should try to build a 60 if the model isn't already there....

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I was just looking through, and they have a couple of 62 models available! I did not know that was available. I'm going to have to make a 60 now!

 

[5280Hawk]

Effing Sweet!! This is exactly what i need.

 

[Bogo]

I've done a bit of experimenting with tubing. It is rather easy to make a tube frame even with curves. I only have two tubes fleshed out here as I blew away the front ones so I could copy the underlying geometry. I have some changes to make to the rear hoop to cut off the bottom at a diagonal. I also replaced the tires and axels with some of my own make. The axels are the right lengths and the rims have the right amount of setback. I need to work on the shape of the tires. For that I'll need to actually measure the ones on my truck.

To do the tubes I made a 1.5" diameter by .120" thick doughnut with 2 crossed lines at the center of the circles. I then place it at the end of a line that denotes the center line of the tube. I follow that line using the Follow Me tool. You can even go around curves. For a curve it bends the tube into a curve. For abrupt direction changes it does a mitered corner.

 

[EriksToy]

THANK YOU for the link.

 

[e9999]

I've done a bit of experimenting with tubing. It is rather easy to make a tube frame even with curves. I only have two tubes fleshed out here as I blew away the front ones so I could copy the underlying geometry. I have some changes to make to the rear hoop to cut off the bottom at a diagonal. I also replaced the tires and axels with some of my own make. The axels are the right lengths and the rims have the right amount of setback. I need to work on the shape of the tires. For that I'll need to actually measure the ones on my truck.

snip

I see you've figured out the ultimate lockers on your axles...!

 

[alia176]

wow, you guys are amazing with Skechup! I can barely get a drawer with a pull handle on the front!

 

[spressomon]

wow, you guys are amazing with Skechup! I can barely get a drawer with a pull handle on the front!

Ditto. I need to take some classes to move from drawing pencils and grid paper

 

[5280Hawk]

Looks like you guys already have it, but

Anybody have trouble Downloading it? I can't seem to get it to work.

The download screen comes up but the completion bar never starts. then it just times out.

 

[Bogo]

wow, you guys are amazing with Skechup! I can barely get a drawer with a pull handle on the front!

Ditto. I need to take some classes to move from drawing pencils and grid paper

The program is a little frustrating. I found it helpful to make a bunch of "guide" lines to help place things then erase or hide them when not needed anymore. Also break your project up into parts then use the parts in your final project. For a drawer I'd break it up into handle, drawer face, drawer box, and glides. The glides themselves would also be made up of sub parts.

I've been using these past couple days for sketching up ideas.

This is a sketch of the interface at the edge of the top of the wheel wells. They have a boxes that stuff can be stowed in. The lids are flush and would have recessed handles. The tie down bar is for tying stuff down in the lower portion of the bed. It is a continuous 3/8" diameter bar supported every 4 inches. When I designed this I thought it would be best to have the tie down at the top. Then I remembered t-slots like used on milling machines. I'm now of the mind I should just put in t-slots and put ones high and low on each side. You can get others, but Rockler has them: T-Slot Bolts, Pack of Five - Rockler Woodworking Tools I can have a bar of AL slotted for relatively cheap then it can be welded into the wall. There are just to many fiddly small welds with the pictured idea.