Bypassed and Removed Rear Heater, Here's a Video (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 8, 2015
Threads
40
Messages
166
Location
CA
After reading through various threads I finally bypassed and removed the rear heater using the simplest procedure I could think of. Hopefully this thread can help someone else out that has been reading multiple threads on the topic.

Please note that I did not drain or flush my system at this time, the rear heater bypass can be done without draining the coolant if you plan on doing that at a different time.

Useful diagrams courtesy of another member on the forum:

Before and then after
IMG_1093.JPG

IMG_1094.JPG


Tools used:
Variety of pliers, vice grips, shears, etc.

Materials needed:
5/8" Heater hose, straight section and a 90 as well. I used Dayco 80404 and cut to length. Hose clamps too.

Procedure:

1. Remove hose clamps then cut and remove old hoses. It may take a while as there are some hard to reach hose clamps. A few drops of coolant may drip out of the hard lines.

2. Install new 90 elbow section and straight section with hose clamps as shown in above diagrams.

3. Disconnect hoses to rear heater under the truck. Then you can unbolt and remove the heater. (Will need to remove front seat if not already done so. Here about 10 oz of coolant will drain out so make sure you have a bucket under the hoses.

4. Clean up and cover hole with aluminum tape, or you can weld in a new piece of metal, up to you.

5. Done, you can now top off coolant, or go through the entire system flush if you wish before or after this procedure. Start the engine, max the heater out and check for any leaks after a few minutes.

VIDEO:

 
After reading through various threads I finally bypassed and removed the rear heater using the simplest procedure I could think of. Hopefully this thread can help someone else out that has been reading multiple threads on the topic.

Please note that I did not drain or flush my system at this time, the rear heater bypass can be done without draining the coolant if you plan on doing that at a different time.

Useful diagrams courtesy of another member on the forum:

Before and then after
View attachment 1443604
View attachment 1443603

Tools used:
Variety of pliers, vice grips, shears, etc.

Materials needed:
5/8" Heater hose, straight section and a 90 as well. I used Dayco 80404 and cut to length. Hose clamps too.

Procedure:

1. Remove hose clamps then cut and remove old hoses. It may take a while as there are some hard to reach hose clamps. A few drops of coolant may drip out of the hard lines.

2. Install new 90 elbow section and straight section with hose clamps as shown in above diagrams.

3. Disconnect hoses to rear heater under the truck. Then you can unbolt and remove the heater. (Will need to remove front seat if not already done so. Here about 10 oz of coolant will drain out so make sure you have a bucket under the hoses.

4. Clean up and cover hole with aluminum tape, or you can weld in a new piece of metal, up to you.

5. Done, you can now top off coolant, or go through the entire system flush if you wish before or after this procedure. Start the engine, max the heater out and check for any leaks after a few minutes.

VIDEO:




Great work. This reminds me I need to finish my drawings.
 
Like I said before not the same number hose I sell:D

Ahh I didnt know that was your page. That makes sense now

I'll be needing one of those in the near future.
 
Ahh I didnt know that was your page. That makes sense now

I'll be needing one of those in the near future.

Strongly consider the Gates option for this hose. We stock both and sell 10 to 1 Gates to OEM. Normally Im an OME guy but at 1/2 the cost given this hose is easy to get to, see no extreme heat, and does not tie between the motor and body makes me think it will be solid long term.


free shipping.png
 
Strongly consider the Gates option for this hose. We stock both and sell 10 to 1 Gates to OEM. Normally Im an OME guy but at 1/2 the cost given this hose is easy to get to, see no extreme heat, and does not tie between the motor and body makes me think it will be solid long term.


View attachment 1812707

@LandCruiserPhil
So if I buy this hose from you how do I get a replacement when I'm in the middle of no where because the part number is super secret? That sounds like bad business to me. How about I just look up 80 series without heater and use that????

That's not looking out for the community just out for a profit.
 
@LandCruiserPhil
So if I buy this hose from you how do I get a replacement when I'm in the middle of no where because the part number is super secret? That sounds like bad business to me. How about I just look up 80 series without heater and use that????

That's not looking out for the community just out for a profit.

You would do the same thing if any hose fails. I would hope you carry a spare piece of hose for emergency. You will be in same trouble if you bought Wits hose (if it works). Actually you will be in bigger trouble because his hose is a foreign number not available at your US dealership.:eek:. I ship 1st class USPS so the four guys that ordered in the past 12 hours will have their hose in 2 days or less as they shipped today.:)

In the end the choice is yours. Do what ever makes you the most comfortable.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom