Buying/Selling - what year, how much, etc. - ask for opinions here (17 Viewers)

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1loudLX said:
It's not far from my place, I could go check it out for ya.
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That is so awesome, I appreciate it! No worries though, it's not quite the color combo I want (I'm not ready to compromise on that yet, haha), I don't want you wasting your valuable time. :) If I did take you up on the offer, I would owe you a case of your favorite frosty cold beverage.

I love this place.
 
Considering a rusty 100

I've had a 1995 80-series for a few years now and I've been happy with it, but I've run across a 2000 model 100-series with 144K for $7500. I called the seller who seems pretty honest since he disclosed he had moved recently from Minnesota and the LC has some rust under the fenders. He said there is no visible rust on the outside, but in the wheel wells where snow tends to get trapped.

I'm in Oklahoma so rust has never been an issue on any of my vehicles, so I'm not sure what to make of this. Can rust of this sort just be cleaned up, or will it continue to rust over time? He's tried to price the vehicle accordingly, but if the rust is going to be an on-going issue I'll probably just pass on this one.

He also mentioned an exhaust leak (which I've read seems to be a common problem on the 100s), but other than it sounds good.

My 80 has locking diffs and has been very reliable, but I've wondered if the extra power of the 100 might be nice since I sometimes tow a boat or a trailer. Also I think the 100 would be overall more family-friendly (more comfortable, more room), and I don't think I would miss the offroad capabilities of the 80 since the 100 still seems pretty capable.

I appreciate some advice on this, especially the rust issue. The vehicle is parked pretty close to where I work, so I'm planning to at least take a quick look in an hour or so, but the guy is at work so might not be available to talk while I'm there.
 
I think you'd be better off in the long run to spend a little more and get a clean used 100. Mechanically, they can easily go 300K miles. Rust, though, could significanlty shorten the lifespan. Also, it makes it a bear to work on anything underneath the truck. You'll end up spending more replacing rusted part than the difference between the price of this 100 and a clean one. Just my 2 cents.
 
Don't do it. Trust me if there is rust on the fenders then the chassis and everything undercarriage related is orange. Been there done that...and won't again.
 
Wow you guys are fast. I really appreciate the sound advice. I'm not afraid of the exhaust problem or whatever, but I've never had to deal with rust. This one was tempting just because they don't come up for sale that often, but I'll let this one go.

Thanks
 
This thread is getting hard to follow. Can the Moderators create a subforum so each converstation can have its own thread?
 
Yep, just posting this so other Mud members know not to deal with these guys!
 
Good luck SDC. Looks like it's a nice rig though.
 
yeah... walk. I only paid 16K for my 2000 w/ 105,000 miles on it 5 years ago and it was in way better shape than that one.
 
shawnc said:
I've had a 1995 80-series for a few years now and I've been happy with it, but I've run across a 2000 model 100-series with 144K for $7500. I called the seller who seems pretty honest since he disclosed he had moved recently from Minnesota and the LC has some rust under the fenders. He said there is no visible rust on the outside, but in the wheel wells where snow tends to get trapped.

I'm in Oklahoma so rust has never been an issue on any of my vehicles, so I'm not sure what to make of this. Can rust of this sort just be cleaned up, or will it continue to rust over time? He's tried to price the vehicle accordingly, but if the rust is going to be an on-going issue I'll probably just pass on this one.

He also mentioned an exhaust leak (which I've read seems to be a common problem on the 100s), but other than it sounds good.

My 80 has locking diffs and has been very reliable, but I've wondered if the extra power of the 100 might be nice since I sometimes tow a boat or a trailer. Also I think the 100 would be overall more family-friendly (more comfortable, more room), and I don't think I would miss the offroad capabilities of the 80 since the 100 still seems pretty capable.

I appreciate some advice on this, especially the rust issue. The vehicle is parked pretty close to where I work, so I'm planning to at least take a quick look in an hour or so, but the guy is at work so might not be available to talk while I'm there.
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I had a 1995 FZJ80, guard it with your life. If I could have my old FZJ80 back I would. nothing is cooler the a FZJ80. Keep it forever
 
Should I buy this, or run away screaming?

My local trusted garage has a 2001 4.7 Amazon VX V8 for under £9k

I went and had a good nose around and test drive today,

its got 84k miles
green paint/beige leather
plenty of cosmetic issues, scratches & scuffs some touched in, some not, minor dent on wing
front fog lights heavily corroded
roof bars flaking
minor corrosion on the upper tailgate
6 inch water saturation on the carpet drivers side,looks long standing, had a replacement windscreen perhaps not sealed properly.
flat battery
no history
some mud/crud and corrosion underneath
its been on the lot for a few months

1st impressions, not great then, but it has a good quality Prins multi point LPG and flashlube kit. I looked at the serial number but it was so far from what I expected for its age, I assume its got the potentially flawed TC/autobox.

The mechancic jumped it and we chatted whilst waiting the 6 minutes for it to start.

I took it for a drive... OMFG big grin time !!!!!!!!! How does something that size accelerate like that and drive that well !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Going through a junction I pressed the LPG button and it cut out on mid-junction, took a couple of minutes to get going but after that swapped from petrol/lpg on demand just ok.

Some wheel wobble and speed, but brakes worked just fine, good oil pressure, no overheating.

Pressing the brakes got a rattle noise, which continued for a few seconds after the brakes were released.

Towards the end of my drive I noticed the o/d light flashing.

No AHC warnings, tried swapping shocks to sport and comfort, which was like night and day, so they seem ok.

Overall nice drive, easy to thread though town, powerful and luxurious.

The mechanic wondered if the rattle noise was normal, I said no way, it reminded me when my range rover air suspension compressor kept kicking in to compensate for leaks.
It seems to be coming from the ABS valve block and lo and behold the ABS,TRAC,VSC lights came on.

Told you so I said in smug mode to the mechanic.

I find out later that the occasional o/d flashing is reporting a fault, but it drove fine.

It seems a basically sound vehicle with a quality LPG install, thats fallen on recent hard times, but if it didn't have the LPG, I'd say no thanks and walk away...


BUT it has so what do I do?

The ABS issue would have to be fixed, as thats an MOT failure.
The remaining issues seem electrical in nature, and may be a consequence of sitting for so long, damp, and/or lack of maintenance, but nothing makes me happier than polishing, undersealing, and doing basic servicing.

The CAP book says a good condition one at this age and mileage is 10,700. This isnt good condition, but has the LPG and is up for sale at 9,000.

I'm aware that it would need TLC and servicing from stem to stern, including all fluids. at the very least and that its only a few thousand miles before needing a timing belt/tensioners/waterpump etc change.

I'd have to get this work done over a few months. For a daily driver the LPG is essential, and its quite hard to get V8 TLC, they're most diesel and priced accordingly. Ideally Diesel is not for me. Also I'm not adverse to getting a car thats sound that I can improve, as its keeps the finance down.


So 2 questions really.

(1) Would you buy?
(2) How much would you pay?

I would really appreciate a few replies from those who own these already, so I have a feel for whats right.
 
Drove 6hrs round trip to buy this one http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=c&car_id=298282616&dealer_id=574381&car_year=2006&systime=&doors=&model=LC&search_lang=en&start_year=2006&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&search_type=used&distance=200&min_price=&rdm=1315667498124&drive=&marketZipError=false&advanced=&fuel=&keywords_display=&lastBeginningStartYear=1981&end_year=2007&showZipError=y&make2=&certified=&engine=&dma=BALTIMORE&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&body_code=0&isFlashPlugin=true&transmission=&default_sort=priceDESC&max_mileage=&color=&address=21236&sort_type=priceDESC&max_price=&make=TOYOTA&seller_type=b&num_records=25&cardist=144&standard=false

There was not a panel that wasn't scratched and the interior was pretty rough.

The search continues for a Certified 06 or 07 and the wife doesn't want white so that makes it even more difficult.
 
that sucks i would have been pissed, i had a buddy check mine out.
i flew down the next week and except for a few problems, cracked manifold being one of them..
all is okay.
 
Just bought an 05!

2005 w/ 97000, nav, dvd loaded. Paid 23,000 with a 3/36 warranty from the toyota dealer. I think I did pretty good. What says you guys?
 
lowkey37 said:
2005 w/ 97000, nav, dvd loaded. Paid 23,000 with a 3/36 warranty from the toyota dealer. I think I did pretty good. What says you guys?
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I think you did. I sold my 2004 LX470 to carmax a little over a year ago, when I moved and it had 58K miles and was perfect and they gave me $28K for it.
 
what's the price to sell?

it's 1998 black 100 series with 166,000 miles,center/rear differential locker, 90,000 miles service was done.. no accident, ome suspension, 285 bfg, slee slider, ao full rack and arb combo bar.... THANK YOU
 
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