Busted rear diff not cover by warranty! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter FJCRUZR
- Start date
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Just a couple of things I would suggest: One, Toyota does not back up the dealership 100%- I can promise you that is a fact. At my dealership, thousands of dollars a month are written off in unpaid warranty claims where we performed a repair in the interest of good will for the customer and the factory denied payment. That is money we lost.
The fact that TMS backed up the SET District rep's story this time does not infer that they back the dealer 100% of the time- in fact it's only indicative that they they backed the dealer in this particular case, nothing more, nothing less.
You should make sure that dealership is properly rewarded by both word-of-mouth and a written letter to the Service Manager, Fixed Ops Director (if applicable), the General Manager, the Owner and of course, your friendly District Rep.
You should also go the extra mile in getting your normal service done by them, and referring customers to them. Making sure word gets out about a good dealer is just as important as getting word out about a bad one.
I would hope you pursue commending them with the same zeal you had condemning the others... your story can have an impact and perhaps force change, and furthermore, you need to recognize that the same District Rep may cover this store, therefore possibly denying payment for them and forcing them to eat it. Knowing SET, it wouldn't surprise me at all.
Glad things worked out in the end for you...
FJCRUZR
2011 4Runner Trail
- Thread starter
- #63
valkyrie610, thanks for your input!
Your opinion is well appreciated but just know that everything I said is based on facts, Toyota Corp. called me and told me that they would stand being the dealership as well as the district rep all the way...
I hope to never have the same problems as I will never go back to Toyota Mall Of Georgia.
And thanks for everyone's support!
Your opinion is well appreciated but just know that everything I said is based on facts, Toyota Corp. called me and told me that they would stand being the dealership as well as the district rep all the way...
I hope to never have the same problems as I will never go back to Toyota Mall Of Georgia.
And thanks for everyone's support!
Valk-Youre a great asset to this board and all Toyota "enthusiasts".
Educating folks on the mechanics of the INDUSTRY helps us all take rational steps to deal with our issues and keep realistic expectations in perspective.
Simply finding a good deaer, being loyal and building a rapport is critical...I've encountered a lot of good ones, and a few really BAD ones. If I still lived in Texas, you'd have a customer for life!
Educating folks on the mechanics of the INDUSTRY helps us all take rational steps to deal with our issues and keep realistic expectations in perspective.
Simply finding a good deaer, being loyal and building a rapport is critical...I've encountered a lot of good ones, and a few really BAD ones. If I still lived in Texas, you'd have a customer for life!
just reading all the stuff on this thread. what is considered a early model. bought mine about a year and half after i seen the first ad. did toyota change any parts. never have had an warrinty issues with toyota. on my fourth now. seems from what i have read evan the modified fjc are warrintied also. do plan on lifting some day. doesnt appear to be a big issue with that on toyotas part. please tell otherwise
Just a couple of things I would suggest: One, Toyota does not back up the dealership 100%- I can promise you that is a fact. At my dealership, thousands of dollars a month are written off in unpaid warranty claims where we performed a repair in the interest of good will for the customer and the factory denied payment. That is money we lost.
The fact that TMS backed up the SET District rep's story this time does not infer that they back the dealer 100% of the time- in fact it's only indicative that they they backed the dealer in this particular case, nothing more, nothing less.
You should make sure that dealership is properly rewarded by both word-of-mouth and a written letter to the Service Manager, Fixed Ops Director (if applicable), the General Manager, the Owner and of course, your friendly District Rep.
You should also go the extra mile in getting your normal service done by them, and referring customers to them. Making sure word gets out about a good dealer is just as important as getting word out about a bad one.
I would hope you pursue commending them with the same zeal you had condemning the others... your story can have an impact and perhaps force change, and furthermore, you need to recognize that the same District Rep may cover this store, therefore possibly denying payment for them and forcing them to eat it. Knowing SET, it wouldn't surprise me at all.
Glad things worked out in the end for you...
Thanks for the information Chris. I will be in touch with that dealership later this week to make sure they are taken care of. We have been letting everyone know that dealership took care of FJCRUZR. I know of at least two that will be taking their FJ to that dealer from now on.
find the build date of your rig....should be on the VIN tag, riveted to the door jam area (I think)
BUY date is irrevelant...
BUY date is irrevelant...
I think the last aspect of this thread is the most ignored. I have NO WARRANTY on any of my trucks and I still take my trucks to Cherokee Toyota here in Atlanta. Why? Because I know I will be buying a new Toyota some day, and I want that relationship. I negotiate my labor rates, total costs, etc on things they do to my trucks (mostly coolant, oil, etc work). I know the service manager, parts manager, etc. by simply being there and starting up conversations about "that big land cruiser"....why?
Relationships and understanding. They know what I do. They know I take care of my junk. If I bring something in I can talk about it technically and intelligently. I suspect the only way I would be denied a warranty claim (once I have one) would be if they had a volume issue one month.
For the record...I have replaced a set of front axles, a set of rear axles, a rear diff, a front ring and pinion set, a rear locker, and a lot of other stuff on my 80 with no warranty help from anyone...I wheel it, I break it, I fix it. I know what I am getting into and what can happen. A warranty is meant to help with this on a new vehicle, but honestly it is meant to cover manufacturing flaws (this R&P falls into this category IMHO) and other unforeseen issues with design.
I know they show these lil buggers on rocks all over the place, it makes it a hard call. So what happens when the R&P gets replaced and it breaks again? Since it was a new part number, properly hardened, etc. your going to have a harder time claiming it wasn't abuse...unless you want to lock horns with the design on using that size diff on that size truck, etc.
Slippery slope is all I am saying. I have helped several trucks with this issue now, and always will. I wish everyone with the problem good luck. I can also say that taking those damn things apart so they will roll home sucks
Oh, and remember: It isn't always about trying till you get resolution as much as knowing the right people for the right amount of time so they will go to bat for you.
Relationships and understanding. They know what I do. They know I take care of my junk. If I bring something in I can talk about it technically and intelligently. I suspect the only way I would be denied a warranty claim (once I have one) would be if they had a volume issue one month.
For the record...I have replaced a set of front axles, a set of rear axles, a rear diff, a front ring and pinion set, a rear locker, and a lot of other stuff on my 80 with no warranty help from anyone...I wheel it, I break it, I fix it. I know what I am getting into and what can happen. A warranty is meant to help with this on a new vehicle, but honestly it is meant to cover manufacturing flaws (this R&P falls into this category IMHO) and other unforeseen issues with design.
I know they show these lil buggers on rocks all over the place, it makes it a hard call. So what happens when the R&P gets replaced and it breaks again? Since it was a new part number, properly hardened, etc. your going to have a harder time claiming it wasn't abuse...unless you want to lock horns with the design on using that size diff on that size truck, etc.
Slippery slope is all I am saying. I have helped several trucks with this issue now, and always will. I wish everyone with the problem good luck. I can also say that taking those damn things apart so they will roll home sucks
Oh, and remember: It isn't always about trying till you get resolution as much as knowing the right people for the right amount of time so they will go to bat for you.
I think the last aspect of this thread is the most ignored. I have NO WARRANTY on any of my trucks and I still take my trucks to Cherokee Toyota here in Atlanta. Why? Because I know I will be buying a new Toyota some day, and I want that relationship. I negotiate my labor rates, total costs, etc on things they do to my trucks (mostly coolant, oil, etc work). I know the service manager, parts manager, etc. by simply being there and starting up conversations about "that big land cruiser"....why?
Relationships and understanding. They know what I do. They know I take care of my junk. If I bring something in I can talk about it technically and intelligently. I suspect the only way I would be denied a warranty claim (once I have one) would be if they had a volume issue one month.
For the record...I have replaced a set of front axles, a set of rear axles, a rear diff, a front ring and pinion set, a rear locker, and a lot of other stuff on my 80 with no warranty help from anyone...I wheel it, I break it, I fix it. I know what I am getting into and what can happen. A warranty is meant to help with this on a new vehicle, but honestly it is meant to cover manufacturing flaws (this R&P falls into this category IMHO) and other unforeseen issues with design.
I know they show these lil buggers on rocks all over the place, it makes it a hard call. So what happens when the R&P gets replaced and it breaks again? Since it was a new part number, properly hardened, etc. your going to have a harder time claiming it wasn't abuse...unless you want to lock horns with the design on using that size diff on that size truck, etc.
Slippery slope is all I am saying. I have helped several trucks with this issue now, and always will. I wish everyone with the problem good luck. I can also say that taking those damn things apart so they will roll home sucks
Oh, and remember: It isn't always about trying till you get resolution as much as knowing the right people for the right amount of time so they will go to bat for you.
In short-Know what you're taking about, have reasonable expectations & forge a relationship. DON'T BLOW YOUR CRED!
I buy ALL NEW VEHICLES-I've ALWAYS had a good relationship with the dealers...and if they're slimy, I go elsewhere. Most dealers LOVE guys like me because they know I'll be back. Give me a year of free oil changes, but I'll also double the service intervals and pay for extras.
Hell, back in 1967 I bought my first new car-VW bug- Gave the dealer an extra $20 on every service bigger than an oil change (every 2,500 miles for the oil back then), got the best tech and I got 170-k out of that car before I threw a rod over revving it!
As a mechanic and an offroad enthusiast I have this to say.
Repair your diffy. The 8 inch is one of the easiest to work on.
Working a truck offroad breaks parts, been there done that in the last 20 years.
If you play in the rocks you will break more in the future in thats any consolation!
You may have not been doing anything wrong at the moment it broke, but had you worked that rear diff hard previously?
On my last trip to moab the 40 in front of me broke a pinion which ate the ring gear while idling down a hill. But that rig was bouncing on the rear diff they day before and it caught up with him.
So don't lose any sleep on this.
Repair your diffy. The 8 inch is one of the easiest to work on.
Working a truck offroad breaks parts, been there done that in the last 20 years.
If you play in the rocks you will break more in the future in thats any consolation!
You may have not been doing anything wrong at the moment it broke, but had you worked that rear diff hard previously?
On my last trip to moab the 40 in front of me broke a pinion which ate the ring gear while idling down a hill. But that rig was bouncing on the rear diff they day before and it caught up with him.
So don't lose any sleep on this.
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
I've wheeled w/ FJCRUZR and I wish I treated my junk as gently as he treats his. I agree that when you go off road you risk breakage and that is your responsibility to fix unless the part is defective which seems to be the case here.
werd
Which part was defective?
the improperly heat treated ring gear that has two part numbers in the toyota system....
For what it's worth, I have done my share of wheeling in my FJ since new, and used the diff lock in situations where I pretty much had to go straight forward, or used it in very slippery, or sandy conditions with no problems. I know there are a lot of other FJ owners out there who wheel even harder with their e-locker and no breakage. I think Miss FJ still has her rear e-locker, and she's obviously used her rig on some pretty tough stuff.
On my list however in the future, is a switch to ARB lockers in the front, and rear for added strength.
On my list however in the future, is a switch to ARB lockers in the front, and rear for added strength.
I believe because there are not many ARB's(zero) available for a 8" rear when there is a factory e-locker involved.
You have to change out the entire 3rd member to do it. A good many people have already done this modification....
I thought the housing size was different on a e-locker rear than a non-locker rear therefore needing an axle swap and not just the 3rd member?You have to change out the entire 3rd member to do it. A good many people have already done this modification....
