Bushing replacement disaster

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jul 21, 2006
Threads
56
Messages
158
Location
Fayetteville, AR
Well I decided to replace the rear bushings on my 40 last night after a few years of procrastinating and I sort of destroyed one of the stock shackles which I had been planning on re-using since I'm a college student and cash is always tight. I guess I should have read up more on the proper way to do it. Basically I didn't have the rear end lifted off the ground. I just snugged the jack up to it for support and the axle I pretty much just barely lifted too. The result: fighting ridiculously to force out the shackle only to watch it twist in half as it gets most of the way out...basically I forced out the shackle while the entire weight of the car was still on it without realizing what I was doing. Stupid I know. Luckily, everything was supported fine and the 40 didn't flinch, it just destroyed the shackle. Anyways...I'm going to have to fix this ASAP as it is blocking my brother-in-law's garage. I'm running out to CC and getting some greasable tri-shackles tomorrow that will run about $160. And ordering enough bushings to just go ahead and do them all while I'm still down there. I have two questions though. First I want to make sure I've figured out what I did wrong. I should lift the end I'm working on a good inch or more off the ground by the frame and then lift the axle just a hair to get the weight off the springs? Right? Can I lift one side of the axle at a time as I do each side or is it safer to just lift from the middle? Also, as I am still on a tight budget, can the hanger pins normally be re-used? Thanks!
 
Yes, you can do one side at a time. Yes, you can re-use all of the hardware (if it's not already too rusted/damaged and if you don't destroy it during removal).

Chock a wheel or two.
Lift and support the frame securely (it sometimes takes a lot of pounding to get pins out of old bushings).
Have a jack under the axle to raise and lower it during the job.
Remove shackle end.
Remove and replace fixed end.
Replace shackle end.
 
Last edited:
Ok thanks. Any recommendations on grease or do they all perform about the same?
 
Yes, you can do one side at a time. Yes, you can re-use all of the hardware (if it's not already too rusted/damaged and if you don't destroy it during removal).

Chock a wheel or two.
Lift and support the frame securely (it sometimes takes a lot of pounding to get pins out of old bushings).
Have a jack under the axle to raise and lower it during the job.
Remove shackle end.
Remove and replace fixed end.
Replace shackle end.

No need to lift the truck. Set the stock bottle jack on the spring itself, and jack between the frame and the spring. You'll be able to tell when the shackle lifts upwards in the bushing... then beat/burn/repeat.
 
I'm guessing that's only possible if you're running a SOA conversion? Mine is still spring under axle.
 
I'm guessing that's only possible if you're running a SOA conversion? Mine is still spring under axle.

No.

You put the jack on the spring, not the axle, so SUA/SOA does not matter. If you have huge lift springs you need to have a longer jack, but with stock springs the stock bottle jack does it fine.
 
Ok, I'll give that a try tonight. I just picked up new Toyota rubber bushings and a set of CCOT greasable tri shackles today.
 
How did it go?
I've done this myself like spotcruiser discribed, and it was no way easy. I destroyed the old bolts but managed to save the shackles. The old bushings seem to rust weld or something simular to the bolts. A big propane torch and a 3 lb hammer helped me the most.
 
Are you sure the Toy bushings are right for the CCOT shackles? I would've guessed that those shackles were thicker than stock.

If it's not too late, I've got a stock shackle you can have for $5 shipping. Email if you want it, I don't get on here every day anymore.
 
Well more surprises. I got down there and removed the bushings from the first spring that I had loose already only to discover that they are poly not rubber and are different thickness than OEM... The top part of the shackles all have Toyota rubber bushings but the lower spring portion has poly. I was never aware what kind of springs were installed on my 40 until now. I tracked a part # on the old poly bushings to a thread on mud that mentions skyjacker springs..I'll have to read up on those. Part #M02232. I'll have to find a supplier I guess. On the bright side, the bushings for my springs take the same diameter bolt obviously since they were connected to OEM shackles before.

And yes the CCOT tri shackles do take the same size bushing as OEM shackles. I guess I'll stick with what the previous owner did and run rubber OEM bushings on top, and poly on bottom... if I can locate the correct bushings for my springs.

I am still having a little difficulty aligning the spring back to where it needs to be for when I install the new shackles/bushings. I guess I just have to tweak the jacks. I'll probably try doing it the way amaurer described above after I get the first one in and I get the car down from it's lifted position that it's currently stuck in while I await parts.
 
Last edited:
Charles,
There are several vendors that make stock replacement poly bushings...I would run poly on both sides.

I have found them to be easier to replace then rubber, and they last longer.

Do you have access to a drill press?

Making your own shackles is easy:
all you need is some 2inchXstock-height-or-longerX3/8th flat stock, and a drill-bit to match your bolt diameter.

SOR is another source for bushings, all you need it the shoulder width, ID and OD
Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Page 289 Poly Bushings

Hit up Eddy for parts, or look for a local cruiser club.
I have learned sooooo much from my local cruiser community :beer:

I have also replaced spring bushing w/a jack off the springs.
placement of jack is obviously important.
Don't jerk or pound anything when you are suspending your 40 in this matter.
placing a jack at the frame would also be a good idea...just in case.

manny
 
I just installed a NOS skyjacker 4" lift that I bought here on MUD. It had been in scotia's attic for a few years but included springs, ubolts, shocks but was missing the factory skyjacker bushings. I ordered 2 kits from 4wheelparts. The kit numbers were SE40L. Each kit contained 8 red bushings. I also ordered 8 new factory bushings from CDan to replace the ones in the frame. I reused the factory shackles and pins.

Seems like the Skyjacker SE40L kits were $25-$27 dollars each and I ordered them through Kling-On on this board. He sells parts for 4wheelparts out of San Antonio.

Hope this helps.
 
Ok, thanks. I'm gonna try giving 4wheelparts a call tomorrow to see if they have or can order these bushings.
 
Ok, latest development: I had 4wheelparts order the bushings for me. Got them in one day. I was impressed then I open the box at home to put them on the car..they don't fit. The odd thing is that the part # is identical...any ideas why they would have two different size bushings with the same part #? The inner diameter is only about 14 or 15mm when it needs to be 18. Guess these are going back.
 
I am stumped. My factory shackles and bolts worked in the SE40L poly bushings and the factory rubber bushings that I replaced in the frame.

While it was disassembled, I put each factory bolt in my vise and cleaned up the outside diameter with emory cloth. I also used a Energy Suspension product called poly bushing lube. I " greased up" the OD of each bolt and put a dab of the lube on the ID of the poly bushing. There was no trouble reassembling the whole thing.

Hope this helps because I am not sure what you should do from here.
 
This makes no sense at all. That's exactly what I have in my hand. The box says SE40L. The bushings inside the box also have a matching part # (M02232) written on the end of them which perfectly matches the part # on my old bushings.

The box even says "spring eye bush kit Landcruiser"

I'd say there was something wrong with my new shackles but they are OEM size and length. The new rubber Toyota bushings fit them like a glove. These bushings in the box don't come close to fitting it.
 
Mystery partially solved..it appears that up till 7/80 the cruisers all had 15mm diameter shackle bolts (new bushings would fit). I have an 82' which requires an 18mm bushing. I'm hoping that Skyjacker has a bushing that will fit these years that has an identical part #...or else it means that my 40 had a very foolish previous owner who some how hollowed out the wrong bushing to make it fit...
 
Last edited:
I'm leaning towards moron previous owner...my old bushings are just too thin. The new OEM rubber ones are about 8mm thick from inside to outside and the new skyjacker ones are about 6mm..my old ones are 3.5mm at best which did look very thin to me and would go along away in explaining the horrible ride on my 40.

Also, taking a look inside my old bushings, I can see pitting which could be from hollowing out the few extra millimeters to fit the bushings. I just find it unlikely that skyjacker made two different size bushings with identical part#'s...anyone know if Old Man Emu bushings are the same size as OEM? I'm afraid that upgrading the entire suspension might be necessary at this point.
 
How did it go?
I've done this myself like spotcruiser discribed, and it was no way easy. I destroyed the old bolts but managed to save the shackles. The old bushings seem to rust weld or something simular to the bolts. A big propane torch and a 3 lb hammer helped me the most.



I don't beat the shackles out anymore. I found it's a lot easier to use a porta-power to press them out. I just set it against both sides and press. Move it between the two (upper and lower) to keep it from binding. Use a bolt to press it thru the bushing. I've bought Harbor Freight's 4ton and 10ton porta-power years ago. Don't use them that often but when you need them their great. If I did this for a living I would have bought better quality.:cheers:
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom