Builds BurntToast's FJ62 Build "Hoss" (8 Viewers)

[BurntToast]

Got the fog brackets modified, should look great when painted up. Doggo approved

Starting to look like a truck, battery tender on in prep for…..

Big day today, she runs! Albeit idle is a bit rough, but has good oil pressure and sounds great

 

[klip]

Woohoo! Heck ya congrats man. Work out the bugs and it will be such a blast to drive. It all looks really clean too, good job!

 

[BurntToast]

Woohoo! Heck ya congrats man. Work out the bugs and it will be such a blast to drive. It all looks really clean too, good job!

Much appreciated! Can’t wait to drive it!

 

[Dubs2017]

Congrats! Nice work. Such a good feeling.

 

[BurntToast]

Congrats! Nice work. Such a good feeling.

Indeed, relief and excitement!

 

[Cruisunder]

Got the shifter mounted and cable attached.

Anyone else have pretty massive slop in the Lokar mechanism? Kinda insane for the price. I adjusted it back and forth and found a middle ground but either makes shifting to park or drive feel like crap.

View attachment 3647742

View attachment 3647743

I don’t have that much slop just being in P. When I got mine I felt some slop in the mechanism as well (Lokar said it was within specs) but I’m hoping it may reduce a little once it’s hooked up to the trans with the shift cable. Did you consider installing it (partially) under the floor or was there no space?

 

[BurntToast]

I don’t have that much slop just being in P. When I got mine I felt some slop in the mechanism as well (Lokar said it was within specs) but I’m hoping it may reduce a little once it’s hooked up to the trans with the shift cable. Did you consider installing it (partially) under the floor or was there no space?

I considered it but with the cable and arm it makes things difficult. Plus I don’t have a good way of sealing the floor if I cut into it. I’m closing the old hole with rubber and a plate

 

[BurntToast]

Got some new 70 visors installed. Old ones were crap, much better.

Fabbed up a Hi/Lo shifter bracket, looks different than normal cause I lost the OE stud. Shoulder bolt and some brass bushings in the lever arm fixed that.

Started the CAD on the console. Cupholders are a bit odd to place, trying to decide if the vertical portion at the dash is important. Wife present for cupholder location approval

 

[BurntToast]

Off to sendcutsend for some parts. Took inspiration from @TRAIL TAILOR nice looking ones and a few others. Copied the cell phone tray from my F150, couple cup holders. Modular switch/gauge panel. Transmission temp will go there.

 

[BurntToast]

Got the right parts for exhaust. I think it’s the same muffler @Dubs2017 and @dbbowen used, but in 3”. We shall see if this collector works.

Any suggestions on routing the passenger side? I’ve seen both crossovers by the t case, transmission and forward to the oil pan. I’m running cats on each side

 

[Bad Mojo]

Off to sendcutsend for some parts. Took inspiration from @TRAIL TAILOR nice looking ones and a few others. Copied the cell phone tray from my F150, couple cup holders. Modular switch/gauge panel. Transmission temp will go there.

View attachment 3659651

When you are sending parts like this to SendCutSend are you still having to flatten/unroll the part for them or are you able to upload what you have?

What software are you using to model in? Fusion, Solidworks?

 

[BurntToast]

When you are sending parts like this to SendCutSend are you still having to flatten/unroll the part for them or are you able to upload what you have?

What software are you using to model in? Fusion, Solidworks?

I use the sheet metal tool in Fusion to design the parts with sendcutsends K factor put into the sheet metal rules. Then at the end I make a flat pattern, into a DXF and then upload to the website. SCS website then senses the bend lines and you can customize from there. Pretty seamless!

 

[cruisermatt]

wow that console is sick.

I would highly recommend running the around the front of the oil pan and running a single large cat vs duals.

 

[BurntToast]

wow that console is sick.

I would highly recommend running the around the front of the oil pan and running a single large cat vs duals.

Thanks Matt, Going to start laying out the exhaust today.

 

[Bad Mojo]

Easy enough then, can't wait to see the finished piece!

 

[dbbowen]

Got the right parts for exhaust. I think it’s the same muffler @Dubs2017 and @dbbowen used, but in 3”. We shall see if this collector works.

Any suggestions on routing the passenger side? I’ve seen both crossovers by the t case, transmission and forward to the oil pan. I’m running cats on each side

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Nice! If you use the center side of the muffler as the inlet and the offset side facing the inside of the truck it puts the tailpipe right inside the rear shock in like the perfect position.


for the crossover youve got a few options. They all have their pros and cons.

- The way i did it around the driveshaft and under the trans pan. This is the most aesthetically pleasing one, but it becomes a target offroad if you dont have a skid plate, which i am trying to eventually make to protect it. Most Factory GM v8 setups in trucks/suvs use this routing.

-behind and above the rear of the tcase - This one is protected from harm offroading but puts the exhaust right next to your fuel line on the frame rail for much longer, and with your 3 inch pipe i dont think youll be able to fit it between the vacuum shift case and the frame. Also, you cant service your tcase without removing the crossover pipe with this one.

- Under the bellhousing of the trans - hard to do when youre running a cat on both sides. Youd have to run one larger cat after your Y pipe further downstream instead of one on each downpipe

- Passenger downpipe routed in front of the motor and to a Y pipe on the driver side - pretty complex, need a different passenger side manifold, and just a little weird to me. Same single cat setup. Less room for your UQ Resonator. For this setup youd really want a passenger side manifold that dumps straight down and not swept back.

I can post pics of my crossover, I recently redid my crossmember because i am planning on building a skid plate for it to cover the tcase and the crossover pipe. I think once you have the skid, this is the best option. Its the most servicable too. Ive installed this setup on an 80 series, 3 60s and a fj40 with LS swaps and its worked great on all of them.



Also, i hate do poop on your parade, but if it was me doing that exhaust.... id return that Y pipe.


Order this one:

Universal Exhaust 304 Stainless Y-Pipe

Universal 304 Stainless Steel Y-Pipe

www.stainlessheaders.com

You can fully customize it. I already had all of my vbands already so i welded my own vbands onto it, but you can order it with vbands prewelded to the side with 2 legs and then weld the single side straight to your resonator or to tubing or whatever. Really saves you some time, and this is the best prefab ypipe you can get that i could find. the spacing on all of it is just about perfect. If you use this Y pipe you can split your exhaust out into 5 parts. Each downpipe leg, the crossover, the ypipe/resonator/muffler, and the tailpipe. You could also split it out even more by adding another vband to split your muffler from the ypipe grouping, which is what i kinda wish i did.

 

[cruisermatt]

I have no problems with those Vibrant collectors and use them on every project. 2.25" inlet 3" outlet if you run the passenger side around the front of the oil pan you can make the whole y-pipe one piece and they are actually very easy to remove and install as long as the axle is at droop

 

[dbbowen]

Also, Save yourself some time and go ahead and pick some of these up if you plan on running your crossover anywhere behind the trans.

601-07636-8150-3" SS304 60° Mandrel Bend - 1.5D Radius

www.stainlessbros.com

These will be your downpipes straight out of your hooker manifolds. Youll need to trim the legs to get the lengths right but this tubing is the perfect angle to hit the turn to keep your exhaust above your frame rails and you can put your O2s in the upper flat section.


For your crossover and any bends on the tail pipe these will be a life saver.

45 degree bends with no legs

90 degree bends with no legs

135 degree bends with no legs

You can get like 95% of the whole thing done with those and some straight tubing. You can cut a few pie cuts for fine tuning as well. For the pie cuts a bandsaw really works the best.


I have some 3 inch 304SS straight tubing in my garage. If you need some pie cuts dont buy any. I can just cut you some and mail them to you for the free

 

[BurntToast]

Thanks for the suggestions all, I’m going to start tomorrow looking hard at it.

Minor stuff today. Got rid of my failed dechromed fender vents for new from @TRFarmers

Got my 80 locker switch installed, now I just need lockers…

Miscellaneous other stuff working. Filled the radiator, tcase.

Old MC leaked from every side. Putting an 80 MC on in anticipation of 4 wheel discs when I put the 80 rear in. Might feel a little off till then

 

[dbbowen]

Thanks for the suggestions all, I’m going to start tomorrow looking hard at it.

Minor stuff today. Got rid of my failed dechromed fender vents for new from @TRFarmers

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Got my 80 locker switch installed, now I just need lockers…

View attachment 3660197

Miscellaneous other stuff working. Filled the radiator, tcase.

Old MC leaked from every side. Putting an 80 MC on in anticipation of 4 wheel discs when I put the 80 rear in. Might feel a little off till then

View attachment 3660201

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Switch setup is goated. Looks freaking amazing. If it makes you feel any better I rocked the locker dial with no lockers for like 2 years before I actually had lockers