I bought my 97 cruiser back in March with 83,000 miles on it and it now has 103,000. It is consuming oil at about 2-3 quarts every 400 miles on the highway. I have changed the oil every 3,000 miles and run 10W30 Dino. The oil burning is very obvious after traveling 75MPH on the highway and then slowing for a toll. Upon taking off I can see a blue smoke screen coming out of the back of my rig and have all sorts of pre-ignition sounds. I have replaced the PVC valve and am l looking for advice before going any futher. I'm thinking leaking valve seals? I hope not rings. Is flushing the motor worth the little effort?
Burning Oil
- Thread starter MSGGrunt
- Start date
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The PCV would have been my first response, but since you did that and it's still blowing blue...
There was a thread a while back where the member was saying the baffles in the VC were all coked up; cleaning them helped. It's possible, but I wouldn't count on it.
What happened for the first 83K, do you know? Did the PO ever change the oil?
There was a thread a while back where the member was saying the baffles in the VC were all coked up; cleaning them helped. It's possible, but I wouldn't count on it.
What happened for the first 83K, do you know? Did the PO ever change the oil?
- Thread starter
- #3
I am not sure about the prior owners care of the vehicle. My Bad I guess. I bought it from a used car dealer that is located in a wealthy suburb of Boston. They told me the previous owner traded it in on a new Volvo wagon so I would assume to cost of proper service would not have been an issue. I will be doing a compression check dry and then wet to see if I can eliminate (I Hope) worn rings and have a complete head rebuild kit that I bought from Specter to address any worn valve guides, seals, etc...
If you haven't already bought the kit from Spectre (and should you need it), you should check in with CDan about the parts. I'll bet you a lobsta dinna that he'll give you a better price, and get you all the parts you really need.
The compression test will tell much...
The compression test will tell much...
It's CruiserDan and he is parts of the American Toyota banner people. There is an oil passage at the rear of the engine on the intake side. When I had my head off the gasket area at that passege was damaged, not enough to be a problem but still damaged. Hopefully the compression test will show something.
Good luck
If you get into it and want someone who can come by and help consume beer let me know.
Good luck
If you get into it and want someone who can come by and help consume beer let me know.
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
I have a new in the box set of factory standard size Toyota rings. Let me know if you need them for your rebuild, I can give you a smoking deal compared to what they go for from Toyota.
- Thread starter
- #8
The vehicle has not gotten better. I replaced the plugs, rotor, cap and wires with factory parts. I drained the fuel tank and put in new gas with a bottle of dry gas and a bottle of Techron. I drove it enough that new fuel should be helping. Now the check engine light is flashing and I was told by Toyota that it is an indicator of the cat overheating. What next? I'm going home after a two year deployment in the military and my cruiser making the trip on a trailer isn't what I wanted. I'm thinking of removing the injectors and having them cleaned/flow tested, remove the head and do a valve job/surface head. (this was needed to replace some leaking valve seals) new head gasket, new high flow cats and exhaust. I want to eliminate as much as possible before putting it in the shop and letting Toyota go through the elimination process. PLEASE ADVISE
R
robbie
Guest
I would not spend any more money on it until you find the source of the oil consumption. Be care full of a wet test as this can some times mess with the cats. I do a dry test only, any more then use a cylinder leak down tester to find the problems. So you may want to start with these tests first, then procede with some other things. The valve seals in the 1FZ are usually not the culprit for buring oil, It usually is other things. worst case is the rings sticking in the piston or too much carbon behind the rings not allowing the rings to compress in the ring land and wearing the cylinder wall down. If you do not want to do the tests, you can pull the head off and then look for the problem, You can hone the wall in the engine bay after you remove the pans and pistons. but look carefully at the cylinder walls for any excessive ring wear on the wall. good luck robbie
MSGGrunt,
Read Mudshack's "Help" thread. Your problem sounds a lot like his and, and it ended up being an injector wire that was shorted and causing the injector to flow all the time.
-B-
Read Mudshack's "Help" thread. Your problem sounds a lot like his and, and it ended up being an injector wire that was shorted and causing the injector to flow all the time.
-B-
