- Location
- United States
I am selling my built 1984 fj60 with the following mods:
Suspension:
Spring over with full width 1-ton axles from an 02’ Superduty:
• Front ball joint Dana 60 with 4:11’s and an ARB locker. This axle has the BIG brakes, and the good seals and heavy tubes.
• Rear Sterling with 4.11’s and a Detroit, Disc brakes and built-in parking brake (not yet connected). Heavy duty Great lakes cover.
• Very reinforced stock spring packs (rides very good and stable)
• Front Rancho 9000’s and rear long travel Bilstein’s with out-boarded hoops.
• Rear anti-wrap bar.
• Non ABS Master Cylinder and booster from late model 1-ton superduty. This thing stops 10x better than any cruiser I’ve driven.
• 5 recentered 8-bolt hummer double beadlock wheels with the biasply 36 x 12.5 x 16.5 goodyear military tires. These use the pressed USA6x6 centers, which are stronger than the flat plate type. They also have the Greatlakes mud locks welded on.
Drivetrain:
• 350+hp, 480+ftlb 385 EFI stroker
o Mid 70’s high nickel block, stress relieved. .040 over
o EQ torker heads, flow better than vortec’s but accept pre-85 parts
o Scat 6.0 cast crank and rods
o Kiethblack hypereutectic pistons with 9.6:1 compression
o Comp cam K12-239 .480 lift with 270 dur. (Idles very well)
o Billet roller rockers
o Edelbrock performer intake
o Serpentine accessories
o 750 cfm bored throttle body, stainless braided fuel lines.
o Custom EBL, laptop tunable with live logging, high speed ECM.
o Innovative Wideband o2 system
o Ceramic block hugger headers with custom 3” mandrel bent exhaust, very nice and mellow stainless magnaflow muffler and a universal magnaflow cat.
o York onboard air system completely plumbed to truck with serpentine pulley and small air tank.
o Large Howe aluminum radiator
o Air conditioning was functioning well until the compressor went last summer. I was planning on replacing it and adding R134 instead of R-12
o Edelbrock polished aluminum tall valve covers and open element.
• Re-BUILT 1992 700R4 Corvette servo, beast sunshell, upgraded pump, heavy duty torque converter, Howel stand alone lock up or can be controlled by the EBL ecm (not connected yet). Hurst shifter.
• Ford Np203 gear reduction box, bolted to a passenger drop ford 32 spline Np205 via Northwest Fab,clockable adapter. Custom triple stick shifters (Front wheel drive, rear wheel drive and 4 wheel drive)
• Highangle drivelines 1-ton 1350 C/V shafts front and rear with a flanged 1410 u-joint in the rear and a 1310 at the front axle. These shafts are VERY heavy duty and weigh 2-3X more than Toyota stuff.
Interior:
Tan interior. Front seats are black vinyl, sliding and reclining racing seats from Summit racing. These are very comfortable. Rear seat is out of an fj62 with headrests and a Wet Okole seat cover (needs a good cleaning or replacing) all stock carpet is in good condition as is the head liner. The interior on this rig is an 8 out of 10. The driver rear interior door panel needs replacing or recovering.
Exterior:
• Completely disassembled in 2004 and repainted with Dupont primer and Valspar industrial paint. Removed front windshield and fixed small pencil lead size rust pits and replaced windshield. Fixed dime sized rust spot at rear fender well. The front fenders need to be trimmed as there are some dents from the added travel and width and a small tree. The body is probably a 7 out of 10 and has ZERO rust. There are some brush scratches and door dings
• Trimmed and capped rockers (looks very neat)
• Custom sliders welded to frame and under front and rear rockers.
• Front ARB bull bar with the newer Warn 8274 with the 4hp motor. I have added new 5/8” extraction points to the front of the bumper that can accommodate shackles but also will accommodate the large custom tow bar I built (included) to flat tow behind my Duramax (towed 600 miles very well).
• Rear swing out tire carrier with dual pivot points (Iron Pig off-road) and space for 3 Nato or Wedco jerry cans. It also has a tow hitch with wiring for lights.
• Older Yakima ski/surf rack.
• FJ62 mirrors, the drivers side is broken due to a rock on a gravel road.
The chassis has about 190k miles, but there is not much else that is stock. The entire drive train has about 700 or 800 trouble free miles so far. The only thing that needs immediate attention is the stock fj60 steering box needs a rebuild. I was planning to do this soon, but just haven’t gotten to it yet, I will hopefully get this take care of soon. There are also a few oil leaks coming from the t-case adapters and a small leak from somewhere on the back of the engine. I have just learned to live with the leaks since they have become my Achilles heal with drive trains.
The engine swap was certified by the Clark county smog board 4 years ago when it was a stock TBI but it just recently passed smog (tail pipe and visual) with all of the new mods. Clark County stopped letting us know how well we smogged so I have no idea what the emissions are, only that it passed. I’m positive this will not pass the smog referee’s in California since the casting number on the block is from a mid 70’s engine even though they are nearly identical to late model 5.7 blocks.
I have spent the last 7 or so years building this truck and a lot of it is documented on the mud forums as well as pirate. If I ever had the cajones to add up my build costs it would probably be close to $30k not counting labor. Here is a link to the latest build with pics:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/103209-fj60-1-ton-superduty-build.html
I’m selling it because it just sits in the driveway, feeling abandoned, and I'm tired of feeling guilty letting it sit.
Asking $14,800.00
Located in Las Vegas, Nv
Feel free to ask questions
Suspension:
Spring over with full width 1-ton axles from an 02’ Superduty:
• Front ball joint Dana 60 with 4:11’s and an ARB locker. This axle has the BIG brakes, and the good seals and heavy tubes.
• Rear Sterling with 4.11’s and a Detroit, Disc brakes and built-in parking brake (not yet connected). Heavy duty Great lakes cover.
• Very reinforced stock spring packs (rides very good and stable)
• Front Rancho 9000’s and rear long travel Bilstein’s with out-boarded hoops.
• Rear anti-wrap bar.
• Non ABS Master Cylinder and booster from late model 1-ton superduty. This thing stops 10x better than any cruiser I’ve driven.
• 5 recentered 8-bolt hummer double beadlock wheels with the biasply 36 x 12.5 x 16.5 goodyear military tires. These use the pressed USA6x6 centers, which are stronger than the flat plate type. They also have the Greatlakes mud locks welded on.
Drivetrain:
• 350+hp, 480+ftlb 385 EFI stroker
o Mid 70’s high nickel block, stress relieved. .040 over
o EQ torker heads, flow better than vortec’s but accept pre-85 parts
o Scat 6.0 cast crank and rods
o Kiethblack hypereutectic pistons with 9.6:1 compression
o Comp cam K12-239 .480 lift with 270 dur. (Idles very well)
o Billet roller rockers
o Edelbrock performer intake
o Serpentine accessories
o 750 cfm bored throttle body, stainless braided fuel lines.
o Custom EBL, laptop tunable with live logging, high speed ECM.
o Innovative Wideband o2 system
o Ceramic block hugger headers with custom 3” mandrel bent exhaust, very nice and mellow stainless magnaflow muffler and a universal magnaflow cat.
o York onboard air system completely plumbed to truck with serpentine pulley and small air tank.
o Large Howe aluminum radiator
o Air conditioning was functioning well until the compressor went last summer. I was planning on replacing it and adding R134 instead of R-12
o Edelbrock polished aluminum tall valve covers and open element.
• Re-BUILT 1992 700R4 Corvette servo, beast sunshell, upgraded pump, heavy duty torque converter, Howel stand alone lock up or can be controlled by the EBL ecm (not connected yet). Hurst shifter.
• Ford Np203 gear reduction box, bolted to a passenger drop ford 32 spline Np205 via Northwest Fab,clockable adapter. Custom triple stick shifters (Front wheel drive, rear wheel drive and 4 wheel drive)
• Highangle drivelines 1-ton 1350 C/V shafts front and rear with a flanged 1410 u-joint in the rear and a 1310 at the front axle. These shafts are VERY heavy duty and weigh 2-3X more than Toyota stuff.
Interior:
Tan interior. Front seats are black vinyl, sliding and reclining racing seats from Summit racing. These are very comfortable. Rear seat is out of an fj62 with headrests and a Wet Okole seat cover (needs a good cleaning or replacing) all stock carpet is in good condition as is the head liner. The interior on this rig is an 8 out of 10. The driver rear interior door panel needs replacing or recovering.
Exterior:
• Completely disassembled in 2004 and repainted with Dupont primer and Valspar industrial paint. Removed front windshield and fixed small pencil lead size rust pits and replaced windshield. Fixed dime sized rust spot at rear fender well. The front fenders need to be trimmed as there are some dents from the added travel and width and a small tree. The body is probably a 7 out of 10 and has ZERO rust. There are some brush scratches and door dings
• Trimmed and capped rockers (looks very neat)
• Custom sliders welded to frame and under front and rear rockers.
• Front ARB bull bar with the newer Warn 8274 with the 4hp motor. I have added new 5/8” extraction points to the front of the bumper that can accommodate shackles but also will accommodate the large custom tow bar I built (included) to flat tow behind my Duramax (towed 600 miles very well).
• Rear swing out tire carrier with dual pivot points (Iron Pig off-road) and space for 3 Nato or Wedco jerry cans. It also has a tow hitch with wiring for lights.
• Older Yakima ski/surf rack.
• FJ62 mirrors, the drivers side is broken due to a rock on a gravel road.
The chassis has about 190k miles, but there is not much else that is stock. The entire drive train has about 700 or 800 trouble free miles so far. The only thing that needs immediate attention is the stock fj60 steering box needs a rebuild. I was planning to do this soon, but just haven’t gotten to it yet, I will hopefully get this take care of soon. There are also a few oil leaks coming from the t-case adapters and a small leak from somewhere on the back of the engine. I have just learned to live with the leaks since they have become my Achilles heal with drive trains.
The engine swap was certified by the Clark county smog board 4 years ago when it was a stock TBI but it just recently passed smog (tail pipe and visual) with all of the new mods. Clark County stopped letting us know how well we smogged so I have no idea what the emissions are, only that it passed. I’m positive this will not pass the smog referee’s in California since the casting number on the block is from a mid 70’s engine even though they are nearly identical to late model 5.7 blocks.
I have spent the last 7 or so years building this truck and a lot of it is documented on the mud forums as well as pirate. If I ever had the cajones to add up my build costs it would probably be close to $30k not counting labor. Here is a link to the latest build with pics:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/103209-fj60-1-ton-superduty-build.html
I’m selling it because it just sits in the driveway, feeling abandoned, and I'm tired of feeling guilty letting it sit.
Asking $14,800.00
Located in Las Vegas, Nv
Feel free to ask questions
... say it isnt so!!!!
