Builds building a landcruiser for overland expedition (1 Viewer)

Should we paint Nulla’s camper cab blue?

  • Yes

    Votes: 5 38.5%
  • No

    Votes: 8 61.5%

  • Total voters
    13
  • Poll closed .

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Why wouldn't you move the rear axle back a couple of feet? That is a long over hange... I would think the truck would ride that much smoother...

Just wondering

Amado that thing's looking awesome:eek::eek::eek:

I would agree with goneloco. You're doing so much to get the perfect rig that you should consider moving the rear axle back, it's not a very big deal on a truck like yours and I think the benefit would be huge.

Too bad i'm so far away, would love to come by to lend a hand.

I got to agree with moving the axle back. It will handle much better on the open road. Big overhangs cause tail wag.
It will be a PITA in the cities as it will increase the turning circle, but you wont be there all that much
 
Why wouldn't you move the rear axle back a couple of feet? That is a long over hange... I would think the truck would ride that much smoother...

Just wondering

we also thought about moving the rear axle, but because of time constraint we decided instead to shorten the camper shell by one feet, we agree it would have been great to move the rear axle. thanks:bounce::bounce2:
 
Day 9 of the build

It is Day 9 and we continue to strengthen the structure of the bed by adding more gussets and stiffeners. We will weld the aluminum together using a state of the art 350P Miller welder. We decided to reinforce the front bed and rear bumper with 3/16 diamond plate steel. We are creating a cavity for the spare tire between the diagonal bars on the chassis for storage and to strengthen it for towing. All of these components will be laser cut and formed this morning. The rest of the day will be spent installing them. As you can see by the pictures below the floor of the bed was cut by the router and is ready to be attached onto the bed frame. We will install the floor after the spare tire cavity and diagonals are installed. The next phase is the camper shell.

Thanks for all your ideas. We are using them! This is turning out to be a real community build. Ride Globally! :bounce::bounce2:
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Holly cow...this truck is going to be insane!!! I'm jealous as hell! :flipoff2:
 
Day 10 of the build

We reached a milestone today! Once again innovative thinking in design and engineering brought it home. State of the art technology is amazing. There is almost no limit on what can be done.

Day 10 was spent laser cutting and installing the bumper. We also began the design upward from the bed. We have decided to make a change on the core structure of the frame after an engineering review. Steel tubes will be attached to a 2” “lip” of the bumper; these steel tube posts will be wrapped in aluminum so that the contact between the aluminum skin and the post is aluminum-to-aluminum. These pictures will be posted when we get to that part of the build.

What a total blast. How fun can a project be? At the end of the day we read your comments and talk about the cool ideas pitched to us from all of you. Day 14 is just around the corner and pressure is on. Many thanks! :bounce::bounce2:
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Steel on Aluminum = Corrosion

Hey Amado,

Just be sure that you do not have any raw steel touching raw aluminum. There is a process called galvonic corrosion that will cause corrosion of BOTH the Aluminum and the steel at the contact point (do to electrolysis).

You will want to insulate the contact points. There are a number of solutions for this. Basic paint will not work. But, specific paint designed for this application.

Hope this helps!!!

:cheers:

We have decided to make a change on the core structure of the frame after an engineering review. Steel tubes will be attached to a 2” “lip” of the bumper; these steel tube posts will be wrapped in aluminum so that the contact between the aluminum skin and the post is aluminum-to-aluminum.
 
x2 the galvanic corrosion. Also, contrary to popular belief. Stainless hardware is a bad choice for aluminum. I've had much better luck with hot dipped fasteners.

You'll want to reinforce the frame in front of the rear wheel. Its gonna break there for sure with all that weight behind the axle. Many of the Canadian spec trucks broke there after a bit of corrosion.
 
Hey Amado,

Just be sure that you do not have any raw steel touching raw aluminum. There is a process called galvonic corrosion that will cause corrosion of BOTH the Aluminum and the steel at the contact point (do to electrolysis).

You will want to insulate the contact points. There are a number of solutions for this. Basic paint will not work. But, specific paint designed for this application.

Hope this helps!!!

:cheers:

thanks, this is very helpful, the diamond plate has been primed with thick marine paint, in addition what do you think of putting plastic between the two metal? or can you direct me to a specific paint that will work...... :bounce::bounce2:
 
You're welcome. I'm stoked you are spending such effort to make a cool ass cruiser to take it on an epic journey.

I think some durable plastic or rubber/plastic sheeting will work well, and is economical. Double it up so it can withstand KM's of washboard road and potholed streets and not wear through. And/Or use rubber grommets at the bolt points to insulate. Either way, you'll get 5 -10 years out of it before you see any corrosion.

Another option would be to have the steel dipped/coated with an aluminum coating that would eliminate the issue. But pricey and probably overkill.

The marine paint will be good too. If you can, paint it all with marine grade of paint.

:cheers:





thanks, this is very helpful, the diamond plate has been primed with thick marine paint, in addition what do you think of putting plastic between the two metal? or can you direct me to a specific paint that will work...... :bounce::bounce2:
 
You're welcome. I'm stoked you are spending such effort to make a cool ass cruiser to take it on an epic journey.

I think some durable plastic or rubber/plastic sheeting will work well, and is economical. Double it up so it can withstand KM's of washboard road and potholed streets and not wear through. And/Or use rubber grommets at the bolt points to insulate. Either way, you'll get 5 -10 years out of it before you see any corrosion.

Another option would be to have the steel dipped/coated with an aluminum coating that would eliminate the issue. But pricey and probably overkill.

The marine paint will be good too. If you can, paint it all with marine grade of paint.

:cheers:

thanks, we will use plastic sheeting. this suggestion is very timely, this installs will begin to take place tomm and over the weekend..... thanks :bounce::bounce2:
 
Hey Amado,

Just be sure that you do not have any raw steel touching raw aluminum. There is a process called galvonic corrosion that will cause corrosion of BOTH the Aluminum and the steel at the contact point (do to electrolysis).

You will want to insulate the contact points. There are a number of solutions for this. Basic paint will not work. But, specific paint designed for this application.

Hope this helps!!!

:cheers:

There is also a way of running the right current of electricity through the metals so that they arent exchanging ions... but thats another story....

Awesome build!!!
 
Day 11 of the build

Day 11 was spent designing the camper shell box, painting the bumper and installing the diagonals that connect the chassis to the rear bumper. The camper shell box will be made from aluminum 1/8” sheet on each side of the box. The aluminum sheet will be cut on the laser and then go to the press break for forming. When the sheet comes out of production we will have a “box” that will be riveted together using aluminum rivets.

On areas where the aluminum and steel touches we will prime with marine grade primer paint then wrap with black plastic.

We are excited and can’t wait to see the camper box on the flatbed. Until today the camper was a concept, something we could see on the computer screen. Now after meticulous measurement of each of the bends and rivet holes we are ready to go. It is the best design for structural purposes.

Too much going on yesterday we are not able to take pictures... sorry, however the picture below will give you idea of the start of the project.

Please keep the ideas coming!:bounce::bounce2:
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Day 12 of the build

75% engineering and 25% fabricaton! This captures the last 3 to 4 days. We spent hours in discussion on design, penciling out the concept, constantly measuring to create the final computer-aided design for the camper. Once the CAD programs hit production it took all of three hours to fabricate all the components. Our goal was to balance structural strength, functionality, accessibility and engineering. In this mix add a constant stream of great ideas from the LCNW guys. Hey guys … you are the experts!

Day 12 we implemented our plans on the design of the camper shell. The aluminum goes from the shelf to the laser, over to the press break, and then to the cruiser to test fit, form and function. By 3pm we start installation. Some of the parts are on the money perfect. Others need a slight shave with the grinder. The floor is now on the waterbed frame. Check out the pictures. They say it all. We made leaps and bounds!

Today the plan is to finish installation of the camper shell. The planning, long discussions, and designing are paying off.:bounce::bounce2:
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