Bey Ji's Biryani
As a child what I used to love the most, whilst watching my Grandma (we’d call her “Bey Ji”: “Beloved Mother”, in our local dialect) in the kitchen, would be her preparing all the individual spices and condiments with her mortar and pestle. The painstaking care into getting textures and aroma and tastes just right. Her tacit scorn of “modern” implements like frying pans, saucepans, and pressure cookers. The way she’d never truly “measure” anything…how she’d always cook from memory, in a whirlwind hustle-bustle of activity.
She was an incredible old gal, was my Grandmother. Widowed at the age of 24 with 5 children (the youngest of whom was 7 months old), she never remarried…and chose a frugal, simple lifestyle all her years. Opting instead, to keep her considerable inheritance (courtesy my Grandfather) “safe and untouched” for her children. And her children’s children, of course. Although she was illiterate herself, she realized (even way back when) the importance of education, and made sure that all of her children get a decent professional one. My Dad turned out to get a Master’s degree in Commerce, became a banker by profession, and went abroad to the UK to earn a name for himself in the world of corporate banking. I was 2 at the time, and being the eldest son of the eldest son (yeah, we’re thoroughly patriarchal, that way), the very apple of Bey Ji’s eye.
When I was 14, our nuclear family (Mum, Dad, us kids) moved back to Pakistan from England, with only a couple of intermediary visits (for a few weeks) after every three-four years. I can tell you...having grown up on Welsh Rarebit, Roast Beef, Yorkshire Pudding, and Rhubarb and Custard for all these years…the sights and smells and sounds of that dizzyingly-colourful, intensely-aromatic, frenetically-chaotic kitchen of hers (yes…it WAS in the village) were absolutely mesmeric.
Over and above all of this, though, perhaps my most endearing memory is that look on her face, when she’d have all her family seated together, and serve up this feast that’d be fit-for-a-king. Priceless, was that look. Absolutely priceless.
Her recipe can be reproduced. Or not. Those memories, though…are utterly unique.
Of course…the spices and chilies and condiments in this recipe of hers, are best used warily. To the untrained palate, they can be smokin’ hot!
Bon appetit!
Ingredients
2 x cups Basmati (extra long grain) rice
¾ kg boneless chicken
3 Onions, large, sliced
1 cup Yoghurt (plain, unsweetened. Save a cup for your “Raita”, too)
1 tsp Ginger Paste
½ tsp Garlic Paste
1 tsp fresh Green Chilies (pulverized in a pestle)
½ cup Tomato Puree (de-skinned, and pulverised)
2 tsp Red Chili Powder
1 tsp Turmeric Powder
1 tsp Cumin Seed (roasted, and ground in a pestle. Save a pinch for your “Raita”, too)
½ tsp Cardamom (pulverized in a pestle)
2 tsp All-Spice powder (available off the shelf, or ground by adding the right ingredients to a pestle)
½ cup Milk
A pinch of Saffron
1 tsp Coriander Powder (off the shelf, or can be ground in a pestle using whole coriander pods)
2 tbsp Green Coriander Leaves, finely chopped
3 ½ cups Water
7 tbsp Oil (Ghee, or vegetable oil can also be used)
Salt (to taste)
Preparation
1. Prepare a mixture of yoghurt, tomato puree, green chilli paste, ginger and garlic pastes, red chilli powder, roasted cumin powder, turmeric powder, All-Spice, coriander powder and salt.
2. Marinate the chicken meat in this mixture, allowing it to “sit” for 3-4 hours.
3. Wash rice thoroughly in a sieve under tap water, until the water runs clear. Soak the rice for about an hour prior to cooking.
4. Sautee the sliced onions until golden brown in a wok, or saucepan (although my Grandma would always use a deep-ish skillet thingamajig)
5. Add the marinated chicken, cook for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon.
6. Drain your uncooked rice, add 3 ½ cups of water to it in a pressure cooker (faster, this way. Although Grandma would use a deep-dish saucepan with a tight-fitting lid). Bring the water to a boil, and then turn the heat low.
7. Mix saffron with milk, and add to the rice.
8. Add the cardamom powder and the chicken mixture (along with the marinade) to the rice.
9. Mix all the ingredients gently, cover with the cooker lid and pressure cook until the “first blow” of the pressure cooker.
10. Garnish with some green coriander.
11. Serve hot with “Raita”; a concoction of yoghurt with a pinch of roasted cumin seed and a pinch of salt, well-mixed to a creamy consistency.
12. Rub your belly contentedly, after the meal. Remember to lick your lips and go “mmmm”. She’d LOVE that!