(Build Thread) New Purchase - '95 Chopped 4Runner on Tons and 40's (1 Viewer)

[GLTHFJ60]

You could look into holley hydramat. It’s mainly used in racing applications but it essentially lays along the bottom of the tank and wicks fuel to the pump from whatever it touches.

Or obviously relocate the pickup or install a baffle.

If moonshine was gas, I'd already have a hydromat. Good advice here.

 

[fourtrax]

Sweet looking crawler.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Buy built, don’t build. Something I should learn! Point, shoot, crawl, repeat. Insane!!

 

[roadstr6]

Buy built, don’t build. Something I should learn! Point, shoot, crawl, repeat. Insane!!

I dont know, man. I’ve seen what you build. You wouldn’t be happy with this beater. You’d just rebuild the whole thing anyway!

 

[SFROMAN]

Another thing I have seen is what they call a race sock.
You’re inside the tank fuel pump is wrapped with a “sock” made of foam. The foam absorbs the fuel maintaining the fuel
Pump fed.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Walbro makes dead-end style pickups, so you can run a pickup in all four corners of the cell. That setup would be cheaper than a hydromat.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Walbro makes dead-end style pickups, so you can run a pickup in all four corners of the cell. That setup would be cheaper than a hydromat.

From what I've read, those work best when they're in fixed positions. That means hard lines to each of the pickups. That can be difficult to achieve in a stock style tank.

You're right though, that is ideal. My eventual plan (for moonshine) is to use walbro pickups at each corner of a custom fabricated tank, hard lines going to each pickup through a central, large, access panel. Combo of bleeder style pickups and dead end ones.

An alternative I've read about is to use pickups with soft lines, and magnets to keep the pickups in position. Soft lines allow you to snake them through a stock style small pickup hole, then a stick or something to arrange them in the tank, then the magnets keep them in place. Hydromat can be cheaper, and definitely easier, in that you click it onto your pickup and slide it into the tank.

It's a difficult problem to solve!

 

[roadstr6]

I appreciate all the good suggestions, guys! Lots of information for me to research.

This truck has had an annoying high idle since I've owned it. I believe @CreeperSleeper fought the same issue and I'm sure the guy I bought it from had it too. Idle sticks high, and if you blip the throttle, it will drop back down. I was searching the web, looking for solutions and I just found this little gem on youtube:

I went out and started the truck, let it warm up to temp and then used my hand to pull outward on the throttle body linkage...idle dropped down to 650. Bingo! Apparenty the butterfly or the shaft gets worn-in to a particular spot and starts to stick. I'm sure the real fix would be to install a new TB, but shimming the linkage with a small washer puts just enough pressure to keep everything in alignment. I love cheap fixes. I can't wait to try it!

Then there's the P0125 code...not looking forward to that one.

 

[roadstr6]

New look for the 4Runner Crawler. Whipped out the rattle cans and some masking tape and added some obnoxious stripes to what was otherwise a dull, gray blank canvas. My attempt to recreate the full front grille with headlights, turn signals and marker lights failed the ditch flex test, so that all came back off. What I ended up with was two Amazon special 7" LED headlights and some tiny round trailer marker lights. I did add some FJ55 pig eyelid headlight surrounds, so the chopped 4Runner is technically a Land Cruiser now.

 

[roadstr6]

Also, IH8beadlocks. These things leak like a sieve. I have to pump up the rears three times a week just to keep it from sitting on the rims. Leaking from between the rings and rims and from the backs of the bolt holes. Lots of soapy bubbles. All the bolts are tight...way tighter than the 30 ft./lbs that the manufacturer suggests. I guess I need to pull them, clean and seal the beads with some sort of sealant. The tires are balanced with beads, so I can't just pour in liquid starch or some other hack fix. Anybody got any ideas?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Do the beadlocks have anti-coning rings? Sometimes they can leak if they don't and the rings cone inward. Unfortunately though, all beadlocks leak, it's just a question of *how fast* do they leak.

Balanced beadlocks, lol. Pull out the balancing beads and put some tire-ject in there to help seal it up.


Also, the 55 bezel is unique, I like it! The hood and fenders are begging to be dovetailed now though.

 

[greenseaman]

Looking awesome!

 

[roadstr6]

So the new 7" round LED lights didn't work without a great deal of pain and suffering. The 2nd gen 4runner uses a 9004 bulb and connector and the LED lights are H4 connectors. Okay, so I bought some 9004-H4 adapters (except that there is no such thing, so I had to re-pin a 9008 adapter to 9004 configuration). Still, no love. the high beams would work, but no low beams. I looked into it a little further and discovered that on 1st and 2nd gen mini trucks and 4runners, Mr. T used a switched ground setup. In other words, there is not a constant ground on the headlight circuit. There is constant power, hi and low. That's it. The circuit is grounded at the switch. Okay... Thanks Mr. T. Way to go. Next I purchased a conversion headlight harness with two relays and three plugs. One plug connects with the original headlight plug, the other two connect to the new headlights. There is a power wire, a couple of ground wires and the whole thing contains some kind of magic voodoo smoke that I dared not let escape. With a little fiddling I was finally able to get the LED headlights working on hi and low. Damn.

And here's the truck in its full nighttime glory with light bar and ditch lights pumping all the lumens:

 

[Fort Knox]

DANG SON!! You're gonna be ready for dem GSHMTR* night runs!!!


* - H added for Kurt