Build: 2H swap to 1HZ w/turbo in HJ75 Troopy

[RhinoRig]

Cleaned up the engine bay and painted nearly everything. I did not pull the brake booster and clutch guts because it's a whole other can of worms. Someday... I wanted to wait on ordering parts until I got everything apart, so while I'm waiting for those to arrive, I'll be painting the firewall above the transmission and the frame rails.

 

[RhinoRig]

I also had rust holes in the air plenum, which is very difficult to access. A few years ago, I pulled the dash and fixed it from the inside, but not quite. Since I had all the wiring out, I figured it was easier to remove the fenders to get at it from the top. I enlarged the hole so I could access it, cleaned, put down more fiberglass, smoothed with bond, then a thick ass coat of flex-seal rubberized coating.

It doesn't have to be pretty, just keep the water off my fuse panel

 

[RhinoRig]

Step 4: rebuild tase and trans.

Getting the tase apart was easy once I got the damn stake nuts off that hold the front/rear flanges and trans output shaft bits. Bending the punched bits out of the way was easy with a tiny chisel (definitely need this), but the nut was torqued so tight, I needed 4 feet of cheater bar to break the seal. Instead of pulling the trans output bearing with an SST (FSM step 16), I used a pry bar from behind and gently worked my way around the bearing to rock it off. Everything else came off easily (no SST needed). Tearing down the 5th gear and trans today to get at the input shaft.

The thrust washers look new. All the gears look great except the input gear showing some wear. It may get replaced if Georg says so.

 

[RhinoRig]

OK. Lessons learned from replacing the input shaft.
1. My trans/tcase is an early model and they switched a few things starting in 87. Along with the longer input shaft, I needed a transmission housing from a specific year, along with the input cover plate and gasket. The bearing is slightly bigger on the new shaft and needs the newer housing to fit.
2. I was able to use standard bearing pullers instead of their special tools. I was even able to pry some the bearings out of the housing.
3. You need a small pointy chisel to un-stake the stake nuts. It was a huge PITA because staking them takes them out of round and therefore does not want to spin easily. The nuts them selves were on so tight it took a 4foot breaker bar and lots of leverage together them off.
4. Getting the input shaft out is not easy! Besides having to tear everything down to get at it, the bearing comes out of the trans housing easy enough, but is pressed onto the shaft. I tried making the special service tool that grabs the bearing by the snap-ring groove but it wouldn't budge. Took it to a machine shop and put the whole case into his press and pushing the shaft off the bearing. Easy once you have the right tool.
5. If you're going to tackle this, just buy a cheap press from harbor freight. $200 is nothing compared to the total project cost.
6. Take lots of pictures and keep the parts sorted. Sandwich bags and a sharpie.

I learned a lot about how the drivetrain works and feel a lot more confident doing future repairs. It ain't rocket surgery.

Not much difference in length.

 

[RhinoRig]

Some of my SSTs. I pieced together various 2" pipe fittings to make a sleeve to press on the bearings. A block of wood wedged in served as a way to keep the gears from spinning and I used the old bearing to help press and protect the new one.

 

[RhinoRig]

This cheap bearing puller set (62593) from harbor freight was a life saver.

 

[Nostradamus]

This cheap bearing puller set from harbor freight was a life saver.
View attachment 2499249

Do you have a part number for that HF puller? I can prolly figure it out on their web site but figured I'd ask.

 

[Greek Cruiserhead]

Your thread is really educative!
Thanks for sharing mate!

====
1984 BJ42 frame-off restored, factory 5spd, 4E9 Toyo tan
1983 BJ45 P/UP resto project

 

[RhinoRig]

Do you have a part number for that HF puller? I can prolly figure it out on their web site but figured I'd ask.

Pittsburgh Puller Set 62593
It might be helpful to buy their larger bearing separator as well.

 

[Nostradamus]

Thanks!

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Great way to jump in. Best way to learn. I am very interested in the AC compressor/ brackets and PS bits if you are parting out the 2H. Also interested in all the throttle body bits. Pls PM me if you can part with these.

Great progress and documentation thus far. Are you interested in selling above parts from the 2H? If so pls PM me. Thanks.

 

[RhinoRig]

Rainy days here in SC and I haven't updated in a long while. At this point the engine is in but I can't get it to fire. More on that later. Quick catch up on the transmission side:

The transmission went back on the engine smoothly. I did need to press a few bearings back into the trans housing but easy enough with plastic baggies and pictures. I did need to change out the clutch fork assembly, which was readily available. The new heavy duty terrain tamer clutch was too easy. And I needed another HF#62601 slide hammer to get the pilot bearing out. The clutch depressor piston thingy is another bit that needs swapped right to left, so new and also super easy.

The aluminum bits got wire brushed and glossy black on the steel bits. Too bad it won't be seen.

Lessons learned on custom-made hoses:
1. They measure from centerline-centerline of fittings, not the rubber hose length
2. They are not cheap, so get it right the first time. $60 each for two AC hoses and $25 for the clutch extension line.
3. Get the shop to attach one fitting, then take that and the other end home to measure and mark the clock angle (they call it).
4. Check the fitting threads before leaving the shop. They mixed thread count on me on the clutch hose and I didn't notice until later.

All gussied up and ready to go in!

Slide hammer bearing puller from HF #62601 made quick work of the pilot bearing.

 

[RhinoRig]

The hardest parts of this project has been finding a welder that would come out to the house and get the engine mounts in place. After two months of searching, I found the right guy! I had to estimate the location of the engine side to side and vertically. Before I took the old 2H out, I measured to location of the fan. That was a mistake because the 1HZ fan is lower and to the left.

Lesson learned:
Before removing the old engine, measure the center of the crankshaft. That should always be the same.

I put the 1HZ in and used the transmission mount to position it fore/aft and the back end left/right. The valve cover is not centered and a little to the left and I used it to position the front left/right. I measured to the fender side, which tapers, so some simple math was required.

I had no clue where it should be vertically, so I raised it to where it looked "right" and used a digital angle gauge to make sure it was pointed uphill 2 degrees so any air bubbles in the coolant would float to the top. Once the mounts were in place and I took the weight off the engine lift, the engine settled down about an inch. Something to be aware of and compensate for. In the end, I think it's way lower than it should be, but I can't see much harm except the angle on the rear drive line has increased a bit.

As for the mounts themselves, I could not find new ones from vendors, so I made some cardboard mockups. When I asked two welders to fabricate them I got the confused puppy dog look then ghosted. Since this fabrication was a hurdle, I decided to make them myself. A 12x12" 1/4" plate from Lowes and a cutting wheel on the grinder: simple enough.

This guy was an awesome find! It would have been a lot easier in Colorado where I had a network of friends, but I'm too new here in SC and it's hard to make friends and meet people during this damn beer bug.

He took 1/2 hour to set up and weld my pieces together, we stood around chatting for 1/2 hour while they cooled down, then he welded them in place and I didn't even have to remove the engine (I was expecting to). 1.5 hours total for $120. I was so tickled with his craftsmanship and saving me time, so gave him $150.

In place and once I got the radiator and fan on, it's obviously too low. Oh well. Those mounts aren't going anywhere. He welded all the way around, inside and out. Super solid and a huge PITA to move up. Time will tell if there are any effects. I also painted the frame and new mounts with POR15.

 

[RhinoRig]

I put the front grille on temporarily as an idiot check. And to admire the new beauty. This is before it was welded in and it's here that I should have noticed the fan was way too low relative to the top of the radiator. The old fan was well above the radiator and comparing pictures of a 2H vs 1HZ fan shroud, I should have noticed the 1HZ fan is also near the top. After settling, I think the front is about 2-3" too low. No stock fan shroud will fit, so I guess my welder will be making a custom one.

 

[ofer bruhis]

I put the front grille on temporarily as an idiot check. And to admire the new beauty. This is before it was welded in and it's here that I should have noticed the fan was way too low relative to the top of the radiator. The old fan was well above the radiator and comparing pictures of a 2H vs 1HZ fan shroud, I should have noticed the 1HZ fan is also near the top. After settling, I think the front is about 2-3" too low. No stock fan shroud will fit, so I guess my welder will be making a custom one.
View attachment 2611657

I'm going to a 'similar' exercise... Have you figured out what to do with the exhaust? Your rig is in much better shape then mine. Are you replacing the fuel lines with 12mm?


good luck mate!

 

[RhinoRig]

Thanks! She's all done and running great, but I never got back to finishing this thread. I've got tons of lessons learned that I need to share.

As for exhaust, there is a local shop here that did an awesome job! Switched sides so it now exits the right side. Custom exhausts are a big thing here, so finding a guy wasn't a big deal.

I ran soft lines for fuel so far. Might switch to hard lines, but there are other issues still, like no A/C when it got to 93 today. Need to pull the expansion valve which is buried in the dash. Had it out once and should've replaced it then.

Shout out any questions and I'll see if I have an answer.
Cheers!

 

[Richard Luksozek]

Very nice job. Not for the faint hearted for sure. I can relate to your learnings, just finished an ISUZU 4JJ transplant into a 70 series Troopie like yours.

 

[Ozzy75]

Thanks! She's all done and running great, but I never got back to finishing this thread. I've got tons of lessons learned that I need to share.

As for exhaust, there is a local shop here that did an awesome job! Switched sides so it now exits the right side. Custom exhausts are a big thing here, so finding a guy wasn't a big deal.

I ran soft lines for fuel so far. Might switch to hard lines, but there are other issues still, like no A/C when it got to 93 today. Need to pull the expansion valve which is buried in the dash. Had it out once and should've replaced it then.

Shout out any questions and I'll see if I have an answer.
Cheers!

Hey mate are you still around the forums I'm looking to swap a 2H out of a HJ47 for a 1hz and like you have loads of questions to ask!

Looks like you where on the right part! Would love to here more...

Cheers
Trent

 

[RhinoRig]

Hey mate are you still around the forums I'm looking to swap a 2H out of a HJ47 for a 1hz and like you have loads of questions to ask!

Looks like you where on the right part! Would love to here more...

Cheers
Trent

Im still here and she runs great. Happy to answer questions. Life took over before I could finish the thread

 

[Ozzy75]

Im still here and she runs great. Happy to answer questions. Life took over before I could finish the thread

I've got a load of questions that would probably drag out this thread I started my own on the 40 section if you don't mind having a look...

If you could pm me a way to contact you FB or some social that'd be amazing an much appreciated