Build: 2H swap to 1HZ w/turbo in HJ75 Troopy (1 Viewer)

[RhinoRig]

Cleaned up the engine bay and painted nearly everything. I did not pull the brake booster and clutch guts because it's a whole other can of worms. Someday... I wanted to wait on ordering parts until I got everything apart, so while I'm waiting for those to arrive, I'll be painting the firewall above the transmission and the frame rails.

 

[RhinoRig]

I also had rust holes in the air plenum, which is very difficult to access. A few years ago, I pulled the dash and fixed it from the inside, but not quite. Since I had all the wiring out, I figured it was easier to remove the fenders to get at it from the top. I enlarged the hole so I could access it, cleaned, put down more fiberglass, smoothed with bond, then a thick ass coat of flex-seal rubberized coating.

It doesn't have to be pretty, just keep the water off my fuse panel

 

[RhinoRig]

Step 4: rebuild tase and trans.

Getting the tase apart was easy once I got the damn stake nuts off that hold the front/rear flanges and trans output shaft bits. Bending the punched bits out of the way was easy with a tiny chisel (definitely need this), but the nut was torqued so tight, I needed 4 feet of cheater bar to break the seal. Instead of pulling the trans output bearing with an SST (FSM step 16), I used a pry bar from behind and gently worked my way around the bearing to rock it off. Everything else came off easily (no SST needed). Tearing down the 5th gear and trans today to get at the input shaft.

The thrust washers look new. All the gears look great except the input gear showing some wear. It may get replaced if Georg says so.

 

[RhinoRig]

OK. Lessons learned from replacing the input shaft.
1. My trans/tcase is an early model and they switched a few things starting in 87. Along with the longer input shaft, I needed a transmission housing from a specific year, along with the input cover plate and gasket. The bearing is slightly bigger on the new shaft and needs the newer housing to fit.
2. I was able to use standard bearing pullers instead of their special tools. I was even able to pry some the bearings out of the housing.
3. You need a small pointy chisel to un-stake the stake nuts. It was a huge PITA because staking them takes them out of round and therefore does not want to spin easily. The nuts them selves were on so tight it took a 4foot breaker bar and lots of leverage together them off.
4. Getting the input shaft out is not easy! Besides having to tear everything down to get at it, the bearing comes out of the trans housing easy enough, but is pressed onto the shaft. I tried making the special service tool that grabs the bearing by the snap-ring groove but it wouldn't budge. Took it to a machine shop and put the whole case into his press and pushing the shaft off the bearing. Easy once you have the right tool.
5. If you're going to tackle this, just buy a cheap press from harbor freight. $200 is nothing compared to the total project cost.
6. Take lots of pictures and keep the parts sorted. Sandwich bags and a sharpie.

I learned a lot about how the drivetrain works and feel a lot more confident doing future repairs. It ain't rocket surgery.

Not much difference in length.

 

[RhinoRig]

Some of my SSTs. I pieced together various 2" pipe fittings to make a sleeve to press on the bearings. A block of wood wedged in served as a way to keep the gears from spinning and I used the old bearing to help press and protect the new one.

 

[RhinoRig]

This cheap bearing puller set (62593) from harbor freight was a life saver.

 

[Nostradamus]

This cheap bearing puller set from harbor freight was a life saver.
View attachment 2499249

Do you have a part number for that HF puller? I can prolly figure it out on their web site but figured I'd ask.

 

[Greek Cruiserhead]

Your thread is really educative!
Thanks for sharing mate!

====
1984 BJ42 frame-off restored, factory 5spd, 4E9 Toyo tan
1983 BJ45 P/UP resto project

 

[RhinoRig]

Do you have a part number for that HF puller? I can prolly figure it out on their web site but figured I'd ask.

Pittsburgh Puller Set 62593
It might be helpful to buy their larger bearing separator as well.

 

[Nostradamus]

Thanks!

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Great way to jump in. Best way to learn. I am very interested in the AC compressor/ brackets and PS bits if you are parting out the 2H. Also interested in all the throttle body bits. Pls PM me if you can part with these.

Great progress and documentation thus far. Are you interested in selling above parts from the 2H? If so pls PM me. Thanks.