Budget 4bd1t -> '94 FZJ80 Build

[lostih]

I actually found a guy in California that makes flanges for all the Volvo downpipes. Its in my thread I believe. Mild flange was $20 shipped.



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Awesome...once again your documentation pays off I looked at his site. Looks like the ticket. Do you know what the outlet bore on your turbo was? I think there are three sizes on these guys...mine is 3" outlet so I'm hoping his flanges will work. I've fired off an email to him as well. The local volvo tuning shop want $135 for these...so I hope his work.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Awesome...once again your documentation pays off I looked at his site. Looks like the ticket. Do you know what the outlet bore on your turbo was? I think there are three sizes on these guys...mine is 3" outlet so I'm hoping his flanges will work. I've fired off an email to him as well. The local volvo tuning shop want $135 for these...so I hope his work.

The outlet for mine was slightly under 2.5" but I cleaned up the exit and matched it and the down pipe flange with die grinder and some sanding disks.

There are are 3 1st and oldest is the conical and its got an outlet of slightly over 2.2". It was used on the low pressure 850's. Its referred to as a conical housing and I believe 5cm*. The next is the one I have with the 2.5" straight flange, referred to as the straight flange housing. Was used on high pressure 850R and T5's as well as later low pressure 850's. I believe its 6cm*. Then yours 3" angled again simply referred to as Angled housing or 7cm*, this one was limited in OEM use to a couple years and only the highest performance models V70R, And I think a couple performance sedans.


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[lostih]

I did some more sinking around today with the turbo and manifold. The angled housing on the turbo is requiring me to use two studs in the turbo and two in the manifold. This limits mounting options, but it looks like I can flip the whole manifold if I need to. If like to have to compressor on the front but really can't make that call until it's in place.

Front facing compressor:

Rear facing:

One question for those in the know...does the direction of the oil and water feed lines matter? It looks like the ports are all identical, just not sure if the flow in the internals matters. Seems like it would for the oil, but probably not the water...waddya all think?


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[Wheelingnoob]

I did some more sinking around today with the turbo and manifold. The angled housing on the turbo is requiring me to use two studs in the turbo and two in the manifold. This limits mounting options, but it looks like I can flip the whole manifold if I need to. If like to have to compressor on the front but really can't make that call until it's in place.

Front facing compressor:

View attachment 905728

Rear facing:
View attachment 905729

One question for those in the know...does the direction of the oil and water feed lines matter? It looks like the ports are all identical, just not sure if the flow in the internals matters. Seems like it would for the oil, but probably not the water...waddya all think?


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Cant flip the manifold, it will block off the ports substantially.

Turbo center section needs to be pisitioned so thst the oil feeds in the top and out the bottom its a gravity drain system. Any more than about 10% will cause it to not drain correctly leadung to all sorts of issues. Water does not matter.

 

[lostih]

Cool. I suppose just because the bolts fit doesn't mean I can flip the manifold. I remember looking at it previously and thinking that was a no go...i guess I just forgot.

So looks like I'll have to work out the front compressor mount or make a tricky adapter flange.

Thanks for the answers on the oil and water lines.


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[Wheelingnoob]

Other option is get a core Volvo turbo with the straight flange like mine and you can mount it forward or back with out issue. Seen quite a few on Ebay sub $70, maybe worth a shot to simplify things.


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[lostih]

Hmmm...yeah I suppose that could work. Then just take the compressor housing and cartridge out of mine and hybridize them. I'll keep that in mind. I'm thinking of trying to dump my exhaust out the frame rail like it does in the FJ80 on the drivers side...the angled flange might help with that but we'll see. If I get stuck I'll definitely go that route. Thanks for the good idea!


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[Wheelingnoob]

Hmmm...yeah I suppose that could work. Then just take the compressor housing and cartridge out of mine and hybridize them. I'll keep that in mind. I'm thinking of trying to dump my exhaust out the frame rail like it does in the FJ80 on the drivers side...the angled flange might help with that but we'll see. If I get stuck I'll definitely go that route. Thanks for the good idea!


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Yep its very easy to swap. No problem, hope you come up with a solution.

 

[lostih]

So after a slow day of machining (did I mention I'm a novice at this?) I have a mostly finished adapter ring.

Don't look to closely... There are a few booboos. One of them is that the lip that centers the Isuzu bell housing is not as tight as I'd like. Any one want to weigh in with what is an acceptable fit?

I also got the rig gear cut off my flex plate:

Tomorrow I only have a few hours to work on it and need to get the notch for the 440 oil pan cut as well as finish the tc adapter and tap a couple more holes in the plate. I think cutting your own adapter as a novice is a bad idea...but I've had fun learning along the way and if I end up having to get one cnc'd I'm still glad I got my hands dirty.

I had my torque converter restalled and rebuilt by total performance torque converter in Portland. Mark is the owner and was great to work with. Did it overnight and opened it up while I was there so I could take a look at the innards. Didn't even think to take a pic...sorry.

Only one day left to finish up machining...not sure I'll make it. I need to redo some of my oil filter relocation as it's bumping into the back of the injection pump. Fingers crossed I can get it done...


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[lostih]

How many parts does it take to swap a 4bd1 into a fzj80?

Answer: a truckload.

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[Wheelingnoob]

I would say a shop full but I'm embarrassed to take a picture of it....lol


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[lostih]

Bath time:

Any favorite rattle can engine paints?

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[lostih]

Few hours of degreasing and some rattle can paint makes it look a lot better.


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[ylexot]

That's purty... That paint job inspires all sorts of confidence that she'll run smooth. (I never understood the dayglow orange or red paint.)

 

[lostih]

Here we go...

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[lostih]

Got the beast out:

That's one long, big giant hunk of engine to take out. I weighed the 4bd1 with all accessories but no flywheel, trans or tcase and it came in at 720 lbs. I'll weigh this tomorrow and see where we're at.

I hope to get the engine mates to the trans and tcase and slid into position for motor mount mock ups tomorrow. Also need to check out exhaust routing while it's in there. Hoping I can work out a down pipe out through the frame rail like the 91-92 FJ80's.

Then on to wiring, plumbing etc. Also need to start on a radiator intercooler mount too.


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[lostih]

One other note: I ordered the t3 to turbo adapter from ATP turbo last night. Somebody else here found it and I'm gonna try it out. They also were the cheapest supplier for the odd angled Volvo exhaust outlet. 28 bucks.


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[Wheelingnoob]

Nice job! Its crazy how long that thing is when you get it out.

Im interested to see how much the dressed 1FZ engine weighs in comparison.

Exhaust will require some work to go out the same way the 3FE does. More so the brake lines and a few other things like fuel lines. There is actually quite a bit of room down the inside of the frame between the trans. Only tricky part there is fitting the down pipe between the starter and engine mount.

You need to slow down a bit so I can get mine done first.


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[lostih]

I'll get you those numbers on weight tomorrow hopefully.

I want you to get yours done before me too...it'd make me less nervous

I need to go reread your wiring posts for changing to the A440 shifter and trans. Where are your sourcing wiring diagrams from? Pulling the wiring harness through the firewall and seeing those plugs has me a bit worried, but I try and backstop that with the number of wires there were going to the 4bd1 in the NPR...I think it was something like 5...that I can handle.


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[Wheelingnoob]

The wiring has for the most part just been a process of removing all the wires that are EFI related. There is a bit more work to do on the wiring and I will try a conical it the best I can. Fortunately our trucks have very simple systems so isolating them is fairly straightforward from the looks of it.

The transmission was easy there is not really any wiring involved other than adapting the old style NSS with the new one.


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