Markuson
SILVER Star
I see an oil-change access cutout... Nice!
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All the items in red are the "test set." Real world testing, I think, is not only fun and rewarding, but the only way to know if a product is actually ready to handle abuse.
The inside of these has some engineered reinforcement thing that Bud does (I don't know, he's the automotive and industrial engineer, I'm just a guy who can add metal till I think it is strong), it took about double to pressure from the press in a crush test verses a skid that is just simple plate steel with some attachment points to the frame. Also, one of those skids will change again.
The gas tank skid, transfer case mounting system, shock guards (which are really weird, they are very different, and Bud is going to paint those black to not draw attention. They are experimental, and out of context, they could be perceived wrongly)
Umm, what else. Control arm skids that don't require removing the control arm bolt or drilling. Rear diff armor is on the truck also.
Oh, so Bud's front skid actually offers more clearance than the stock skid. It may be a 1/32", but hey I'll take it.
Sliders have changed quite a bit from the first picture. They are different in design than other sliders. Once they get cleaned up, I'll post a picture.
View attachment 1450607
Definetly more to come.
Yea I'll tell him, guess you'll see how they do here soon enough when I post the hit marks.I like these - depending on cost I'll buy the prototypes if bud wants to sell them
I'd cut more drain holes in them though
Nice work BUD
Holy crap, you definitely have the most armored rig on Mud. Even have Rhino liner on the body? You must really like playing in the rocks.Control arm skid, the bolt head will have a machined offset peice for the angle it sets on. Not need to remove the control arm bolt to install or remove. The literally are as tight to the mount as possible, so loss of ground clearance is 3/16" because that is the thinckness of the armor itself.
View attachment 1452684
The shin guard for the lower shock skid is to protect from rocks thrown by the front tires. Other guys have just used the lower shock bolt to attach armor on, but on my FJ with Icon Lowe shock mounts, I hit a rock, and it turned the armor with the skid, then the skid took a big chunk out of the icon aluminum lower control arms. Bud's design doesn't use the lower shock bolt. These have a couple changes already to smooth the edges for rocks.
View attachment 1452685
Rock sliders. No one else is arranging the legs in a triangular way. That gives an increase or increase in strength over all the legs being flat. Built on a 1/4" one piece plate, Bud's second to the rear leg is all other las leg. Legs distance to the ends of the slider front and rear is about 7". Look at other sliders at how far the final leg is to the end of the slider. This is how you minimize deflection. Hardware is massive 5/8" bolts, not small little M8. No drilling required. I choose to have kickers, but he can do with or without, or even a step slider and then whatever you want for a fill plate.
View attachment 1452686 View attachment 1452687
And a rear diff guard for fun.
View attachment 1452688
Control arm skid, the bolt head will have a machined offset peice for the angle it sets on. Not need to remove the control arm bolt to install or remove. The literally are as tight to the mount as possible, so loss of ground clearance is 3/16" because that is the thinckness of the armor itself.
View attachment 1452684
The shin guard for the lower shock skid is to protect from rocks thrown by the front tires. Other guys have just used the lower shock bolt to attach armor on, but on my FJ with Icon Lowe shock mounts, I hit a rock, and it turned the armor with the skid, then the skid took a big chunk out of the icon aluminum lower control arms. Bud's design doesn't use the lower shock bolt. These have a couple changes already to smooth the edges for rocks.
View attachment 1452685
Rock sliders. No one else is arranging the legs in a triangular way. That gives an increase or increase in strength over all the legs being flat. Built on a 1/4" one piece plate, Bud's second to the rear leg is all other las leg. Legs distance to the ends of the slider front and rear is about 7". Look at other sliders at how far the final leg is to the end of the slider. This is how you minimize deflection. Hardware is massive 5/8" bolts, not small little M8. No drilling required. I choose to have kickers, but he can do with or without, or even a step slider and then whatever you want for a fill plate.
View attachment 1452686 View attachment 1452687
And a rear diff guard for fun.
View attachment 1452688
Not sure theres another wayAs soon as they are ready, I'll take the rear rock guards...and the rear control arm guards for sure.
Will wait to see what I need to do for the sliders in possible partial combo with my ARB's.
Also...it looks like your diff turtle is welded on? Is that weld-only?
I'll be in for the skids and other guards as well. Like we talked about, curious to how the sliders turn out once done. Can you make measurements on how far they stick out compared to the Slee ones you have? Thanks!
Sorry for not getting back sooner. We've been running the roads to get to this event. It's pretty cool, talking with all the vendors. We did some night wheeling. The group was led by a 100, then a 40, then my 200, a 60 behind me, and a 80 in the back. Just so cool.+1 for ready to purchase as well. I am curious about the measurements too.