BudBuilt 200 Series Skid Plates, Sliders, High Clearance Rear Bumper

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I see an oil-change access cutout... Nice!
 
All the items in red are the "test set." Real world testing, I think, is not only fun and rewarding, but the only way to know if a product is actually ready to handle abuse.

The inside of these has some engineered reinforcement thing that Bud does (I don't know, he's the automotive and industrial engineer, I'm just a guy who can add metal till I think it is strong), it took about double to pressure from the press in a crush test verses a skid that is just simple plate steel with some attachment points to the frame. Also, one of those skids will change again.

The gas tank skid, transfer case mounting system, shock guards (which are really weird, they are very different, and Bud is going to paint those black to not draw attention. They are experimental, and out of context, they could be perceived wrongly)

Umm, what else. Control arm skids that don't require removing the control arm bolt or drilling. Rear diff armor is on the truck also.

Oh, so Bud's front skid actually offers more clearance than the stock skid. It may be a 1/32", but hey I'll take it.

Sliders have changed quite a bit from the first picture. They are different in design than other sliders. Once they get cleaned up, I'll post a picture.

View attachment 1450607

Definetly more to come.

Would love to see photos as each piece goes on your truck.
 
Looking forward to more pictures!
Man, I can't believe how much cool stuff is becoming available for our rigs! :bounce:
 
I know I've said it, but I'd just like to remind that these are not what the production version will look like. These have been cut and changed up a few times because we keep finding little ways to make them have more clearance. That's why you'll see some holes with nothing to them. The transfer case skid will be much higher clearance. It is a little low because Bud wants to see how much clearance is left when the new crossmember take a hit. The rectangular cut out on the engine skid was a yesterday last change also. Bud's son welded it, he's pretty new at this stuff, but you gotta learn somehow. Again, production welds will still be the experienced guys.

IMG_0353.webp
IMG_0354.webp
IMG_0355.webp
IMG_0356.webp
IMG_0357.webp
 
I like these - depending on cost I'll buy the prototypes if bud wants to sell them
I'd cut more drain holes in them though
Nice work BUD
 
Control arm skid, the bolt head will have a machined offset peice for the angle it sets on. Not need to remove the control arm bolt to install or remove. The literally are as tight to the mount as possible, so loss of ground clearance is 3/16" because that is the thinckness of the armor itself.

IMG_0358.webp


The shin guard for the lower shock skid is to protect from rocks thrown by the front tires. Other guys have just used the lower shock bolt to attach armor on, but on my FJ with Icon Lowe shock mounts, I hit a rock, and it turned the armor with the skid, then the skid took a big chunk out of the icon aluminum lower control arms. Bud's design doesn't use the lower shock bolt. These have a couple changes already to smooth the edges for rocks.

IMG_0359.webp


Rock sliders. No one else is arranging the legs in a triangular way. That gives an increase or increase in strength over all the legs being flat. Built on a 1/4" one piece plate, Bud's second to the rear leg is all other las leg. Legs distance to the ends of the slider front and rear is about 7". Look at other sliders at how far the final leg is to the end of the slider. This is how you minimize deflection. Hardware is massive 5/8" bolts, not small little M8. No drilling required. I choose to have kickers, but he can do with or without, or even a step slider and then whatever you want for a fill plate.

IMG_0360.webp
IMG_0362.webp


And a rear diff guard for fun.

IMG_0348.webp
 
Here is a picture of how far the sliders stick out from the body. The camera is lined up to show strait line angle front to back. So if a tree was next to you, the sliders will be right there to protect. The kicker is if you want it or not, very personal preference, that's why he does both.

IMG_0363.webp
 
I like these - depending on cost I'll buy the prototypes if bud wants to sell them
I'd cut more drain holes in them though
Nice work BUD
Yea I'll tell him, guess you'll see how they do here soon enough when I post the hit marks.
 
Lookin Good.
 
Control arm skid, the bolt head will have a machined offset peice for the angle it sets on. Not need to remove the control arm bolt to install or remove. The literally are as tight to the mount as possible, so loss of ground clearance is 3/16" because that is the thinckness of the armor itself.

View attachment 1452684

The shin guard for the lower shock skid is to protect from rocks thrown by the front tires. Other guys have just used the lower shock bolt to attach armor on, but on my FJ with Icon Lowe shock mounts, I hit a rock, and it turned the armor with the skid, then the skid took a big chunk out of the icon aluminum lower control arms. Bud's design doesn't use the lower shock bolt. These have a couple changes already to smooth the edges for rocks.

View attachment 1452685

Rock sliders. No one else is arranging the legs in a triangular way. That gives an increase or increase in strength over all the legs being flat. Built on a 1/4" one piece plate, Bud's second to the rear leg is all other las leg. Legs distance to the ends of the slider front and rear is about 7". Look at other sliders at how far the final leg is to the end of the slider. This is how you minimize deflection. Hardware is massive 5/8" bolts, not small little M8. No drilling required. I choose to have kickers, but he can do with or without, or even a step slider and then whatever you want for a fill plate.

View attachment 1452686 View attachment 1452687

And a rear diff guard for fun.

View attachment 1452688
Holy crap, you definitely have the most armored rig on Mud. Even have Rhino liner on the body? You must really like playing in the rocks.

:clap:
 
What was involved in installing install those sliders?
 
Control arm skid, the bolt head will have a machined offset peice for the angle it sets on. Not need to remove the control arm bolt to install or remove. The literally are as tight to the mount as possible, so loss of ground clearance is 3/16" because that is the thinckness of the armor itself.

View attachment 1452684

The shin guard for the lower shock skid is to protect from rocks thrown by the front tires. Other guys have just used the lower shock bolt to attach armor on, but on my FJ with Icon Lowe shock mounts, I hit a rock, and it turned the armor with the skid, then the skid took a big chunk out of the icon aluminum lower control arms. Bud's design doesn't use the lower shock bolt. These have a couple changes already to smooth the edges for rocks.

View attachment 1452685

Rock sliders. No one else is arranging the legs in a triangular way. That gives an increase or increase in strength over all the legs being flat. Built on a 1/4" one piece plate, Bud's second to the rear leg is all other las leg. Legs distance to the ends of the slider front and rear is about 7". Look at other sliders at how far the final leg is to the end of the slider. This is how you minimize deflection. Hardware is massive 5/8" bolts, not small little M8. No drilling required. I choose to have kickers, but he can do with or without, or even a step slider and then whatever you want for a fill plate.

View attachment 1452686 View attachment 1452687

And a rear diff guard for fun.

View attachment 1452688

As soon as they are ready, I'll take the rear rock guards...and the rear control arm guards for sure.

Will wait to see what I need to do for the sliders in possible partial combo with my ARB's.

Also...it looks like your diff turtle is welded on? Is that weld-only?
 
As soon as they are ready, I'll take the rear rock guards...and the rear control arm guards for sure.

Will wait to see what I need to do for the sliders in possible partial combo with my ARB's.

Also...it looks like your diff turtle is welded on? Is that weld-only?
Not sure theres another way
 
I'll be in for skids, rear rock guards and rear control arm guards... in case you are making a list.
 
I'll be in for the skids and other guards as well. Like we talked about, curious to how the sliders turn out once done. Can you make measurements on how far they stick out compared to the Slee ones you have? Thanks!
 
We have the meats!

Wow - impressive armor....did you get a feel for how much these components weigh?
 
I'll be in for the skids and other guards as well. Like we talked about, curious to how the sliders turn out once done. Can you make measurements on how far they stick out compared to the Slee ones you have? Thanks!

+1 for ready to purchase as well. I am curious about the measurements too.
 
+1 for ready to purchase as well. I am curious about the measurements too.
Sorry for not getting back sooner. We've been running the roads to get to this event. It's pretty cool, talking with all the vendors. We did some night wheeling. The group was led by a 100, then a 40, then my 200, a 60 behind me, and a 80 in the back. Just so cool.

Ok sliders, the main tube sits at the same width as Slee sliders, but with a more turned up angle, for a couple inches more ground clearance. The kicker adds just over 2" more, if you want it.

For weight, these are the 3/16" steel, so the front 2 plates, or another way to look at it is the replacements for the stock metal skids are about 75 lbs.

Transmission is about 30 lbs.
Transfer case and crossmember is about 80 lbs.
Gas tank skid is about 50 lbs.

Now he also has stainless steel, which I like because while it cost more, you don't have to powdercoat it, so it isn't much more. 1/8" steel or "lite" version, much stronger than that little stock stuff, but not for hard use, and keeps cost down. Then 1/4" aluminum, I'm not much for aluminum under my truck, but if I can get a good hit on my gas tank while I'm here, I might consider it for that piece.

So based on money, weight and use, you can tailor your protection needs.
 
Last edited:
Before and after pictures. We actually had to find something to hit, the 200 is really good in rocks, like really good. I ran a rock course with SAS toyotas on 37s, no issues.

IMG_0370.webp
IMG_0371.webp
IMG_0373.webp
IMG_0374.webp
IMG_0375.webp
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom