Broken upper adjustable arm

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Do the adjustable uppers 'rotate' around the adjuster as the suspension flexes? If they do then wouldn't there be no rotational stress on the bushings?

So, IF the above is true (I have no idea how the slee adjustable uppers are 'implemented') then the only failure reason would be due to pulling/pushing as the arm resisted the back/forth forces of the axle housing trying to rotate. That would explain the look of the bushing housing having tried to be ripped open along a stressed area right on the weld edge.

cheers,
george.
 
Do the adjustable uppers 'rotate' around the adjuster as the suspension flexes? If they do then wouldn't there be no rotational stress on the bushings?


cheers,
george.


No. Once you lock the nuts on the adjuster, it should remain fixed. Interestingly, those locking nuts frequently loosen up in use. Likely related to the twisting forces.
 
I have a feeling that the damage to the bushing might have occurred either in pressing it in, or getting the bushing out.
 
Do you think that getting stuck in that quicksand had something to do with both of these breaks?
 
The bushings went in pretty easy with a little moly grease, they didn't get damaged that way. My thinking is that the bushing got damaged after the eye broke. There was a lot of play in there when the eye broke open.

George, Drew, once I had them adjusted where I wanted them, I tacked the adjusters so they wouldn't come loose.

Only one thing left on my rig with adjusters and poly bushings. The rear panhard, but seems to be fine.
 
Do you think that getting stuck in that quicksand had something to do with both of these breaks?


Sure it didn't help, but I couldn't even move when I was in the quicksand. I had to winch out.
 
AHH but race trucks only have to survive to the end of the race ;) :p
Ya about a thousand miles of unforgiving terrain. All at high speeds. Can't risk using an inferior part.
 
Ya but plenty of Baja race trucks run poly.

We aren't baja racing where link rigidity is desirable. We are driving high levels of twist under tremendous forces.

You install plastic and reduce the ability to twist accordingly and any weak spot may give to overcome that restriction.

Usually it is the poly bushing itself, but an solid interior bushing with good durometer could very well hold together and force failure of the eye itself.

There is nothing about this statement that doesn't make complete sense. The only reason the OEM rubber can handle the type of flex the rear of the 80 has is because those bushings are uniquely shaped/designed for that purpose.

Again, this is why people run johnny joints. You get the benefit of poly without forcing it to handle any twisting as that is supported by the spherical ball joint.

Poly in long travel crawling 4 link systems was a 1990's experiment that did not last long for a good reason.
 
Then answer me this why is Slee and MAF selling them with their links if they are no good? I mean both are reputable venders. Why would they do this?
 
Hey Alvin can I interest you in some LCAs?

This is a shot of the ends I'm using. Brake one of these and there is something seriously wrong with your driving style.
LCA 003 (Medium).webp
 
LOL, my lower control arms are beefy as hell Rick. I got the old style that Slee sold. The tubed ones, .25 wall. I have beat the piss out of those and they are solid.
 
Then answer me this why is Slee and MAF selling them with their links if they are no good? I mean both are reputable venders. Why would they do this?

MAF sells them because OME produces them. OME produces them because a) people are clueless enough to buy them, and b) a lot of OME suspensions are purchased as an upgrade to a factory suspension and not subjected to strenuous use.

Put a set of OME hand press in poly bushings in your rear links and see if they last one wheeling trip.

Slee is selling a polyester bushing that clearly has better characteristics than standard poly and is an internal bushing in a sleeve rather than two pieces pressed in from each side with poly on the outside of the arm that has to take twist while the inside piece compresses (they tear at the joint). However, that design now has to handle all of the twisting force inside of the arm eye.

Take a look at your LCA OEM bushings (because they are easy to see). Note what about that design would allow both durability and outstanding flex in a rubber bushing. Then show me any poly bushing designed the same way.

The driver to use poly in most applications is cost: you get a better priced product at better margin. This is why 4x4 companies have been trying (and getting burned) for years and years to make it work.

There are some applications where poly is fine - Slee's blue bushings are a great panhard application (panhards don't have to twist much in a long arm suspension) and they are perfectly fine in our radius arms because the motion is deflection (squishing) not twisting due to the lack of front flex.

I actually carry a set of OME front panhard bushings with me because MAF sent me a set inadvertently when I bought my 4+ front panhard. I'll never use them, but occasionally you get out on the trail with some poor sod who is blowing out poly bushings and you never know when they might fit as a way to get him off the trail. I am completely serious.
 
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Hey Alvin can I interest you in some LCAs?

This is a shot of the ends I'm using. Brake one of these and there is something seriously wrong with your driving style.

Make them 3/8 longer than stock and put a spherical joint on one end and you'll sell a ton of them.
 
The rear panhard, but seems to be fine.

Yeah, right. You better take the rear one out and inspect it very closely and while you're at it, check the axle housing for cracks. I don't know how the hell you're breaking things but you're on a roll dude!! :hillbilly:
 
Yeah, right. You better take the rear one out and inspect it very closely and while you're at it, check the axle housing for cracks. I don't know how the hell you're breaking things but you're on a roll dude!! :hillbilly:


I wheel!:flipoff2:
 

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