Broken Radiator Overflow Nipple (3FE) (1 Viewer)

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Apr 25, 2020
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Location
Modesto, CA
Has anyone had luck fixing a broken overflow nipple on an early 80 (pic attached)? If so, what'd you use?

If I go with a new radiator, what are thoughts on a custom brass radiator? A local shop quoted me ~$750 for one made to mount like OEM. Otherwise, I can get a CSF for less, but I've heard mixed reviews. I know Ron Davis makes a nice one, but price is pretty steep.

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Check Amazon. I got an all aluminum one that has been pretty nice. The mounting brackets were slightly off, but it's been in there for about four years or so of daily driving and wheeling and no leaks or overheating yet.
 
If you're bound and determined to try a fix, I'd look for a bulkhead connector the approximate size. I'd try it. You'll need to use a Dremel or the like to put flats on the inside and outside of the neck. No idea of your chances, but maybe??? Or epoxy? What the hell. It's not worth much this way. Good luck.
 
If the radiator is in otherwise good shape, you can just get some brass tubing of the appropriate size to fit in the hole and JB Weld it in place (*or drill a new hole that fits the brass tubing).

The overflow isn't a pressurized connection, and is only open when the radiator cap vents low pressure on expansion, and as long as it's sealed, low pressure on radiator contraction. In other words, it doesn't have to hold up to even 14.7psi atmospheric, but it does need to be air tight to function.

Importantly, your fix should not impinge on the seal of the radiator cap,
 
Been there, done that. We did a quick fix that lasted years, until my upper tank cracked.

Clean up the hole and tap some threads into it, get a brass fitting that is male threads on one side, barbed on the other. Use some teflon tape, screw that brass nipple in and you're good to go. It's a $4 fix.

Good luck, let us know if that works for you.
 
If the radiator is in otherwise good shape, you can just get some brass tubing of the appropriate size to fit in the hole and JB Weld it in place (*or drill a new hole that fits the brass tubing).

The overflow isn't a pressurized connection, and is only open when the radiator cap vents low pressure on expansion, and as long as it's sealed, low pressure on radiator contraction. In other words, it doesn't have to hold up to even 14.7psi atmospheric, but it does need to be air tight to function.

Importantly, your fix should not impinge on the seal of the radiator cap,
Good idea with the brass tubing. I’ve found a diameter I think would fit that hole. But I don’t know if the tube would hold up well over time if just secured with epoxy - working under the hood, remove the overflow hose, and general vibration might weaken the bond.
 
Good idea with the brass tubing. I’ve found a diameter I think would fit that hole. But I don’t know if the tube would hold up well over time if just secured with epoxy - working under the hood, remove the overflow hose, and general vibration might weaken the bond.


And that's why you tap some threads into it and use a threaded brass barbed nipple. It's solid that way.
 
Been there, done that. We did a quick fix that lasted years, until my upper tank cracked.

Clean up the hole and tap some threads into it, get a brass fitting that is male threads on one side, barbed on the other. Use some teflon tape, screw that brass nipple in and you're good to go. It's a $4 fix.

Good luck, let us know if that works for you.
Glad to hear yours lasted years. Was yours the 3FE? The hole is in a very tight spot. Would be difficult to tap. But I could seal the hole and tap a new hole facing the engine.

i also bought the Dorman tube. Seems less likely to crack the plastic over time than a metal fitting.
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Glad to hear yours lasted years. Was yours the 3F3? The hole is in a very tight spot. Would be difficult to tap. But I could seal the hole and tap a new hole facing the engine.

i also bought the Dorman tube. Seems less likely to crack the plastic over time than a metal fitting.
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Mine is a 95, so the nipple faces the firewall, was easy access.
 
Update. I just ordered the Liland Global 13AA aluminum radiator from Rock Auto. The 30 year old radiator (I think it's the original) is probably near retirement, and I didn't want to mess around with a rigged, possibly temporary fix. Thanks for the help.
 
Probably a good idea if the radiator is OG.
 
Update. I just ordered the Liland Global 13AA aluminum radiator from Rock Auto. The 30 year old radiator (I think it's the original) is probably near retirement, and I didn't want to mess around with a rigged, possibly temporary fix. Thanks for the help.
It seems like a lot of people will be needing new radiators for their 3fe's in the coming years. Because the OEM radiator for the 3fe is discontinued and because cruiser owners are picky in regards to aftermarket items it would be cool to hear how this radiator works out for you.


If this radiator you ordered works well and fits correctly you should consider updating this thread with a link to the radiator and your experience with it.

Goodluck
 
It seems like a lot of people will be needing new radiators for their 3fe's in the coming years. Because the OEM radiator for the 3fe is discontinued and because cruiser owners are picky in regards to aftermarket items it would be cool to hear how this radiator works out for you.


If this radiator you ordered works well and fits correctly you should consider updating this thread with a link to the radiator and your experience with it.

Goodluck
I’ll report back after a little use. Hopefully it’ll be ready to go for a wheeling trip in 2 weeks. There isn’t a lot of info on after market 3FE radiators.
 
Here are some pics of the Liland Global 13AA radiator for the 3FE. I needed to bend the two lower brackets up a bit to line up the fan shroud. Otherwise, it bolts right in. Be gentle because the fins bend very easily. It does leave gaps between the shroud and radiator. I have open cell foam tape on order to fill the gaps before summer comes. So far, it keeps the engine cool.

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