Broken birfield, car rolls in park

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Joined
Aug 22, 2007
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12
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'97 LX450 228K

So, recently my DS birfield started clicking. I started reading up on doing the service thinking I had a while to get that done. However, yesterday the click turned into more of a clunk and I could feel it in the steering wheel. I stopped the car, called a tow truck and had it carried to my mechanic. I assume the birfield is broken and will have to be replaced. A few minutes ago, my mechanic called and said the vehicle still rolls even when the transmission is in park. Does this make sense?

This is my DD, only drive it on roads. Never touched the H-L shifter. I have no clue about how lockers work.

Also, based on my reading other threads, sounds like most are satisfied with the standard replacement Nitro birfs, yes??? So I was going to order one of those.

Thanks.
 
Is your mechanic referring to the whole vehicle rolling or just the front wheels (for example, while the vehicle is on a lift)?

If the vehicle rolls [on the ground] when the transmission is in park, then the birfields are not your only concern.
 
If the vehicle is full time 4wd (AWD) it will roll with a single broken birf. It will also not move anywhere under its own power unless the T-case is locked. Best way to imagine it is having and open diff in the tcase and an open diff in the front axle. Open diffs send power to the wheel with the least amount of traction and since that birf is broken it will have the least amount of resistance therefor all the power will be transferred through the driveline to that birf. The reason it will still roll in park is pretty much the same reason as above but backwards. I'm sorry if this is not clear, its a little tough to describe through a key board.

~Jeff
 
So, would my t-case in my LX normally be locked. As I mentioned, I have never paid any attention to the issue of the lockers, so I don't know what my situation would be. I have noticed that people have mentioned a switch or a light on the dash related to this and I don't think I've ever noticed anything that looked like that.
 
So, would my t-case in my LX normally be locked.

No. In stock form, the electronic center differential lock is only activated when you put it into 4-low. If you add the CDL switch to the dashboard (the wiring is already there) then you can lock it in 4-high, too.

Also, if your transfer case sensors are bad, then you may never see the 'locked' indicator, even if you put it into 4-low.
 
So, for your mechanic to drive the vehicle, it must be in "LOW" in order to lock the CDL until the birfield is fixed.
There is more that can be done here, but to Keep It Simple..... Just do that.

You do NOT need "Nitro" birfs. Those are for off-roading. Look up RCV from Slee Off Road. They have a "stock replacement" version. That's what you need. Also, make sure they install stock Toyota seals (Don't get Marlin Crawler seals for your use) or get the rebuild kits from Cruiser Outfitters (@cruiseroutfit ) and/or Slee.

This is the time to do trunnion bearings, wheel bearings, seals, front axle rebuild, front brake rotors on the front end because he is going to have it torn down. May as well do BOTH sides and do it ONCE.

Make sure they follow the @Tools R Us wheel bearing setup and NOT the Factory Service Manual. (Do a search here or Tools will respond)

Make sure you have them install NEW studs and nuts in the bottom of the steering arms (also available from Slee and C.O. or from Toyota)

Also, make sure they remove the axle housing vent and hose, clean it and all the openings in it (including the fitting) when they put it back together or they will be doing it again for free in another 5000 miles.

You also need new gear oil in the center. You do NOT need synthetic.
You NEED Moly (such as Valvoline Palladium) in the birfields.
Wheel bearing grease can be NLGI#2. I used Lucas Red-N-Tacky 2. Your choice.

Make sure your mechanic can get access to 'Mud.

Yes, the vehicle will roll while in park since one birfield is broken. This is why the parking brake MUST work. This is the same, even if one wheel is on ice. The vehicle will move if ONE wheel loses traction.
 
No. In stock form, the electronic center differential lock is only activated when you put it into 4-low. If you add the CDL switch to the dashboard (the wiring is already there) then you can lock it in 4-high, too.

Also, if your transfer case sensors are bad, then you may never see the 'locked' indicator, even if you put it into 4-low.

Don't need a switch. Shift low range to lock the CDL, remove the Diff fuse and drive. To unlock simply replace the fuse.
 
... It will also not move anywhere under its own power unless the T-case is locked. ...

The '97 has a VC, so will drive unlocked. Depending the VC condition, should have some slipping.
 
subscribed. can't get better advice and i might need to do this soon.
 
So, for your mechanic to drive the vehicle, it must be in "LOW" in order to lock the CDL until the birfield is fixed.
There is more that can be done here, but to Keep It Simple..... Just do that.

You do NOT need "Nitro" birfs. Those are for off-roading. Look up RCV from Slee Off Road. They have a "stock replacement" version. That's what you need. Also, make sure they install stock Toyota seals (Don't get Marlin Crawler seals for your use) or get the rebuild kits from Cruiser Outfitters (@cruiseroutfit ) and/or Slee.

This is the time to do trunnion bearings, wheel bearings, seals, front axle rebuild, front brake rotors on the front end because he is going to have it torn down. May as well do BOTH sides and do it ONCE.

Make sure they follow the @Tools R Us wheel bearing setup and NOT the Factory Service Manual. (Do a search here or Tools will respond)

Make sure you have them install NEW studs and nuts in the bottom of the steering arms (also available from Slee and C.O. or from Toyota)

Also, make sure they remove the axle housing vent and hose, clean it and all the openings in it (including the fitting) when they put it back together or they will be doing it again for free in another 5000 miles.

You also need new gear oil in the center. You do NOT need synthetic.
You NEED Moly (such as Valvoline Palladium) in the birfields.
Wheel bearing grease can be NLGI#2. I used Lucas Red-N-Tacky 2. Your choice.

Make sure your mechanic can get access to 'Mud.

Yes, the vehicle will roll while in park since one birfield is broken. This is why the parking brake MUST work. This is the same, even if one wheel is on ice. The vehicle will move if ONE wheel loses traction.



Thanks very much for the detailed suggestions. I ordered birfs from justdifferentials.com. These are Nitros, but they are the OEM replacements, not the Chromoly birfs. I explicitly indicated to their rep that this is a highway vehicle. Also, got the knuckle replacement kit from them with the wheel bearings.
 
There are great guys at justdifferentials! Can't go wrong there!
 

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