Take a look at Specter Off Road's catalog. Lots of good diagrams til you get a manual.
Bringing a 40 Back to life-
- Thread starter sgtpeper
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #82
Where do I find that catalog?
MSAPERS: As mine was running before it was parked, it had the electric pump hooked up near the tank, and then fuel lines still went to the mechanical pump. Were they running in parallel? See the problem?
MSAPERS: As mine was running before it was parked, it had the electric pump hooked up near the tank, and then fuel lines still went to the mechanical pump. Were they running in parallel? See the problem?
The easiset way to tell is a bit redneck but here goes: Disconnect the line from the mechanical fuel pump and blow into it. Seriously. If you feel a lot of resistance and hear a bubbling sound at the tank then that's the line coming from the tank to the pump. However, if you feel no resistance/no bubbling sound then that line has been bypassed and there would be one running paralell.
- Thread starter
- #84
Well heres my way of telling - which metal line on the carb is the fuel inlet?
If I am correct, its the one that goes to the front of the carb toward the front of the car that is and is near the top of the carb. Right? That fuel inlet line still goes directly into the mechanical pump.
If I am correct, its the one that goes to the front of the carb toward the front of the car that is and is near the top of the carb. Right? That fuel inlet line still goes directly into the mechanical pump.
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2008
- Threads
- 40
- Messages
- 1,331
- Location
- Central Oregon
- Website
- www.oregoncruisers.com
ya thats the inlet...with it disconnected and the motor turning over the mech pump should pump if its good and hooked up to the tank.
If I were you I would scrap the electric pump, all old fuel filters, and shady fuel lines. Then get a new oem or ? mech pump. Plumb it with NEW filters one tank side and one carb side.
Never assume anything is right or works properly on an old rig. Lots of hands could of been into it doing who knows what to keep it going over the years.
If I were you I would scrap the electric pump, all old fuel filters, and shady fuel lines. Then get a new oem or ? mech pump. Plumb it with NEW filters one tank side and one carb side.
Never assume anything is right or works properly on an old rig. Lots of hands could of been into it doing who knows what to keep it going over the years.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,199
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
There is only one OEM filter. It is located in the engine bay, in the rubber hose from chassis hardline to fuel pump inlet.
They added an electric pusher pump to shove fuel through the worn mechanical pump.
As everyone has already said, ditch the elec pump, old rubber hoses, multiple parts store filters and junk air filter. Replace w/ OEM pump, FF and AF.
They added an electric pusher pump to shove fuel through the worn mechanical pump.
As everyone has already said, ditch the elec pump, old rubber hoses, multiple parts store filters and junk air filter. Replace w/ OEM pump, FF and AF.
- Thread starter
- #88
FF and AF?
What about using the aftermarket pump from CCOT? Anything wrong with using that pump?
You say it should be metal going to a filter going to the mechanical pump? Mine are all rubber but they appear to be OEM? The pictures of a 79 pump look like they should be rubber hoses connecting to the pump am I wrong?
What about using the aftermarket pump from CCOT? Anything wrong with using that pump?
You say it should be metal going to a filter going to the mechanical pump? Mine are all rubber but they appear to be OEM? The pictures of a 79 pump look like they should be rubber hoses connecting to the pump am I wrong?
So metal lines up to the engine bay along the frame, then rubber, filter, rubber, pump, rubber, metal, carb.
You can view to Specter catalog on line. If you order form them you'll get a hardcopy.
For most things I try to stay OEM.
I'm guessing the FF and AF are fuel and air filters.
You can view to Specter catalog on line. If you order form them you'll get a hardcopy.
For most things I try to stay OEM.
I'm guessing the FF and AF are fuel and air filters.
As for the CCOT pump. It might work just fine. The price is definitely right.
- Thread starter
- #91
Sounds good. I'm going to see if I can find a pump locally tomorrow - maybe at one of the local places in Denver you mentioned before.
Is there a trick to making the new fuel pump go in or is really as simple as unbolting the old one and bolting the new one?
Again, thanks for all the help guys!
Is there a trick to making the new fuel pump go in or is really as simple as unbolting the old one and bolting the new one?
Again, thanks for all the help guys!
- Thread starter
- #92
I was looking around a parts sites...
On toyotapartstore.com I found this -
Auto Parts and Accessories Catalog - Fuel Pump
Notice the first item that pops up looks almost exactly like the pump I took out of the truck...
Now I'm confused - is it supposed to be there?!?!!?
On toyotapartstore.com I found this -
Auto Parts and Accessories Catalog - Fuel Pump
Notice the first item that pops up looks almost exactly like the pump I took out of the truck...
Now I'm confused - is it supposed to be there?!?!!?
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,199
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
I am not going to dignify that question with an answer, since it has been aswered 4 times by 4 different people in one thread.
On that same parts site, they do list the OEM Kyosan Denkei FP.
Their pic:
- Thread starter
- #95
She runs!!!
The guys at Rocky Mountain Cruisers are great - I'm sure that gets said around here a lot but they were really a big help to me getting the truck running.
I put the new fuel pump in and it fired right up. Smoked like a b*tch for a bit but after some HEET that went away - and I filled the tank with fresh CO 91 octane heh.
Has a bit of lifter and valve noise, but I'm sure thats because it needs new oil - which I'll be doing tomorrow.
I moved it forward and the e-brake broke free nicely. I went forward and reverse and I can lock the brakes when I need to so I assume they are okay now.
Thanks to everyone on here who talked me through the problems
.
A few new questions:
1. What is the brake pedal supposed to feel like on a '79? Its VERY high and pretty stiff but does stop the car quite well.
2. Do they all have a rear heater that looks like a lil circular radiator in the cab?
***3. What should the temp gauge show when the truck is fully warmed up? I could barely get it to move above the C - maybe a few ticks above the cold and driving it would make it show totally cold.
4. This may be connected, but I had the heat on full and I only got what I'd say is moderately warm heat coming out - I checked the radiator fluid and its all full.
Thats about it for now - thanks again for the help!!
The guys at Rocky Mountain Cruisers are great - I'm sure that gets said around here a lot but they were really a big help to me getting the truck running.
I put the new fuel pump in and it fired right up. Smoked like a b*tch for a bit but after some HEET that went away - and I filled the tank with fresh CO 91 octane heh.
Has a bit of lifter and valve noise, but I'm sure thats because it needs new oil - which I'll be doing tomorrow.
I moved it forward and the e-brake broke free nicely. I went forward and reverse and I can lock the brakes when I need to so I assume they are okay now.
Thanks to everyone on here who talked me through the problems
.A few new questions:
1. What is the brake pedal supposed to feel like on a '79? Its VERY high and pretty stiff but does stop the car quite well.
2. Do they all have a rear heater that looks like a lil circular radiator in the cab?
***3. What should the temp gauge show when the truck is fully warmed up? I could barely get it to move above the C - maybe a few ticks above the cold and driving it would make it show totally cold.
4. This may be connected, but I had the heat on full and I only got what I'd say is moderately warm heat coming out - I checked the radiator fluid and its all full.
Thats about it for now - thanks again for the help!!
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2008
- Threads
- 40
- Messages
- 1,331
- Location
- Central Oregon
- Website
- www.oregoncruisers.com
1. Dont know what brakes should feel like on 79. It should have a booster.
If I were you I would not assume they work just cause they work.
Old rig, I would tear into the brakes and steering pronto before you drive much.
2. Yes rear heater is standard usually.
3&4. My temp gauge does not go very high either...but search on thermostat here and you will learn that a missing seal can cause the "never hot" syndrom you have. Odds are good that a PO may have missed that seal when replacing the thermostat.
If I were you I would not assume they work just cause they work.
Old rig, I would tear into the brakes and steering pronto before you drive much.
2. Yes rear heater is standard usually.
3&4. My temp gauge does not go very high either...but search on thermostat here and you will learn that a missing seal can cause the "never hot" syndrom you have. Odds are good that a PO may have missed that seal when replacing the thermostat.
Congrats on getting it running.
- Thread starter
- #99
I think I'm going to see if Rocky Mountain Cruisers can look it over and make sure its truly road worthy. I need to change the plugs still and make sure it will pass emissions argh.
When I first started driving it to get gas, you should have seen the smoke coming out of it haha - I seriously thought it was on fire but it was just coming out of the exhaust. Once I filled it and put HEET in the smoke went away and it started running a lot better. The catalytic converter smoked for about an hour as well but that too has gone away.
I did not realize this thing was going to be THIS rough for driving on regular streets haha! Top speed of 58mph eh? Wont see the highway too much
When I first started driving it to get gas, you should have seen the smoke coming out of it haha - I seriously thought it was on fire but it was just coming out of the exhaust. Once I filled it and put HEET in the smoke went away and it started running a lot better. The catalytic converter smoked for about an hour as well but that too has gone away.
I did not realize this thing was going to be THIS rough for driving on regular streets haha! Top speed of 58mph eh? Wont see the highway too much
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2008
- Threads
- 40
- Messages
- 1,331
- Location
- Central Oregon
- Website
- www.oregoncruisers.com
oya forgot that...sweet ya got it running! Do check out or have checked if you dont know how the brakes and steering. These 2 items can be in rough shape on an old 4x4. And are the last things you want failing on the road.
edit: Ya beat me! The initial going over is a great time to get to know your new cruiser...I would not let someone else get the satisfaction!
edit: Ya beat me! The initial going over is a great time to get to know your new cruiser...I would not let someone else get the satisfaction!
