Break problems advice. (1 Viewer)

[jonheld]

Front brake caliper, 2 each required:
View attachment 3724063
Pistons (if required, usually not); 4 each caliper required:
View attachment 3724069

Rear brake caliper, 2 each required:
View attachment 3724065

Pistons (1 each caliper required, usually not):
View attachment 3724066
and just for grins:
View attachment 3724070
This fits the LSBPV also. New valves come with a screw installed.

No bolts, screws or nuts required. You are not supposed to take the front caliper halves apart when you rebuild them, and the rear is one piece. If you need sliding pins for the rear:
47715-22010 @ $13.59 each (2 required, per caliper)
The front caliper pins come in the brake disc set.

If you remove the front caliper using the caliper mounting bolts (you are not supposed to do it that way), you should replace them when you remove them (if you're like me and follow the FSM recommendations for non-reusable parts). If, however, you follow the FSM and take the reaction arm off the caliper body, you do not have to install new bolts. If you replace them once, and keep the underside reasonably clean, they should last your lifetime.

So, rebuilding just the two rear calipers, less pistons, = $27.64, plus tax and shipping.

No way this is a wash with the price of just one caliper. A little more for the front, but same cost comparison.

All prices are courtesy of Ourisman Toyota of Richmond, VA.

Just a few corrections.
04479-60020 Front caliper overhaul kit (qty 1 does both sides)
04479-60030 Rear caliper overhaul kit (qty 1 does both sides)

I also noticed that Ourisman is selling rebuilt front calipers for $26, which is ridiculously cheap. Maybe a mistake?
47730-60060-84
47750-60060-84

Rear calipers are $61 without the mounting bracket.
47730-60070-84
47750-60070-84

 

[Malleus]

Unbelievable!

I'm buying some just because I can. Even with shipping the cores back, that's a smoking deal.

Thanks for checking my math

 

[jonheld]

Unbelievable!
View attachment 3724878
I'm buying some just because I can. Even with shipping the cores back, that's a smoking deal.

Thanks for checking my math

I know. I already have 3 sets of fronts and 2 sets of rears. Tempted to get some more for no apparent reason.

 

[lcrva]

TL;DR: Calipers fixed 90% of the problem.
I replaced all four calipers with remanufactured ones from O’Reilly’s, which solved 90% of my issue. The difference is dramatic! I can Stop now.

Unfortunately, the right rear caliper they gave me was defective and wouldn’t seal around the banjo bolt, so I still need to fix that wheel and am waiting on the replacement part.

The old calipers were in worse shape than I thought—the retaining clips for the rubber boots had disintegrated and weren’t doing their job anymore. Front pad wear was even, but some of the calipers must have been stuck. Now, the pedal is super sensitive, and more importantly, I can actually stop—so well that I’m giving everyone whiplash because I’m not used to it!

On the bright side, I went from getting 12 MPG to 15 MPG!!!!

I should also mention I did a half-ass job bleeding the brakes, so I might still see some improvement. Overall, I’m glad it worked, but something still feels off. I suspect the lines might be bulging somewhere I can’t see. For now, it’s good enough.

 

[lcrva]

TL;DR: Calipers fixed 90% of the problem.
I replaced all four calipers with remanufactured ones from O’Reilly’s, which solved 90% of my issue. The difference is dramatic! I can Stop now.

Unfortunately, the right rear caliper they gave me was defective and wouldn’t seal around the banjo bolt, so I still need to fix that wheel and am waiting on the replacement part.

The old calipers were in worse shape than I thought—the retaining clips for the rubber boots had disintegrated and weren’t doing their job anymore. Front pad wear was even, but some of the calipers must have been stuck. Now, the pedal is super sensitive, and more importantly, I can actually stop—so well that I’m giving everyone whiplash because I’m not used to it!

On the bright side, I went from getting 12 MPG to 15 MPG!!!!

I should also mention I did a half-ass job bleeding the brakes, so I might still see some improvement. Overall, I’m glad it worked, but something still feels off. I suspect the lines might be bulging somewhere I can’t see. For now, it’s good enough.

View attachment 3725850

View attachment 3725851

View attachment 3725852

View attachment 3725853

Update 2:
I got the 4th caliper on. Brakes are near perfect. All the strange pedal feel must have been that 4th on. One more good bleed and it will be perfect. Thanks for all the help.

 

[CharlieS]

I tried a few rounds of caliper rebuild from auto part stores and they all sucked bad. Very poor workmanship. Buy the toyota kits and rebuild your own. It is so much better that way.

 

[lcrva]

I tried a few rounds of caliper rebuild from auto part stores and they all sucked bad. Very poor workmanship. Buy the toyota kits and rebuild your own. It is so much better that way.

I heard some stories / reviews about some bad ones but these looked mint. One had an imperfection of the seat for the banjo bolt but other than that one, they look indistinguishable from a brand new set. Very happy with them.
* I think O’Reilly has a new supplier for remanufactured parts now.

 

[jonheld]

Update 2:
I got the 4th caliper on. Brakes are near perfect. All the strange pedal feel must have been that 4th on. One more good bleed and it will be perfect. Thanks for all the help.

Replace the 7 soft lines.

 

[lcrva]

Replace the 7 soft lines.

It’s on my list. They look original. Can I expect stuck bolts and much frustration? I am worried about breaking a fitting? I see some people recommend the stainless and some recommend against using stainless?

 

[jonheld]

It’s on my list. They look original. Can I expect stuck bolts and much frustration? I am worried about breaking a fitting? I see some people recommend the stainless and some recommend against using stainless?

IMO, stainless braided lines are a marketing gimmick. I use 100% OEM 80 Series brake parts. My truck stops, but I also maintain it.
Penetrating oil is your friend, along with proper tools for the job.
And replacing old brake lines should have been your first step, not the last.

 

[BTLSHP]

It’s on my list. They look original. Can I expect stuck bolts and much frustration? I am worried about breaking a fitting? I see some people recommend the stainless and some recommend against using stainless?

I bought all 7 lines, bolts and washers for just under $150 from Amayana in Japan. It took a couple of weeks, but they made the job pretty easy. There are little tabs on them that fit perfectly on the caliper. Paid a stupid amount to have them installed because it was part of the brake system NEVER doing that again.

 

[lcrva]

IMO, stainless braided lines are a marketing gimmick. I use 100% OEM 80 Series brake parts. My truck stops, but I also maintain it.
Penetrating oil is your friend, along with proper tools for the job.
And replacing old brake lines should have been your first step, not the

Well, I don’t have unlimited time on my hands so I have to try to actually fix the problem in the time allotted. I accomplished that goal with the new calipers and they work absolutely perfect now.

 

[lcrva]

Note for people doing this job:

For anyone working on this car’s brakes, you might come across posts suggesting that it’s nearly impossible to bleed them. From my experience, that’s not the case. I use a simple setup: a jar with a couple of inches of brake fluid and a clear tube, and I’ve been able to bleed the brakes by myself without any special tools. With two people, it’s even easier. I borrowed a vacuum bleeder, but that thing was more trouble than it was worth.

One of the first issues I noticed when First bench bleed the master cylinder is it seemed to continue to produce air bubbles so I replaced that. I’m wondering if all this trouble people are having bleeding the brakes is really just a master cylinder issue?

There’s also some talk about having to go through a sequence with the proportioning valve—right, left, right, left, and back to the valve—but I’ve never actually gotten any air out on that second round. It might be a good practice, but it doesn’t seem strictly necessary. As long as you’re bleeding the far brake line first, any air should come out just fine.

The only thing to note is that this car seems to need more pedal pumps to fully clear the air compared to other vehicles. But overall, using a basic method—just a jar and a 10mm wrench—you can bleed the brakes without any special power bleeders. After bleeding, the brakes on mine feel as good as my 2018 4Runner.

Also tested the ABS this morning and functioning well.

 

[Malleus]

I've found exactly one thing that will loosen rust around brake line fittings:

Takes about 10 minutes to get in there.

These are also very handy:

They're just the right size and length for brake line fittings; last line of defense before cutting a line. Useless for anything else.

All of the short hardlines between the soft lines on the front are available, and pretty cheap, as are the rest of the fittings in the front circuit. You'll never have another/better chance to replace them, and they are as old as the soft lines. The tubing doesn't age, but the fittings on them do; or, at least, the threads and hexes do.

 

[lumbee1]

My rear calipers were not fully retracting and grabbing the rotor. These were Napa remans and were replaced 8 to 10 years ago and replaced OEM. I was never impressed with the quality of them but they worked but better than my OEM. My dealership is running 25% off OEM parts so I picked up Toyota remans to replace the Napa calipers.

Final price is $147 with tax. Checking Rockauto, this seems to be a better deal and in the future I will rebuild these instead of replace.

My front calipers are Beck/Arney from RockAuto. They looked great out of the box and were installed 5 to 7 years ago. They are still functioning perfectly and I will rebuild them when the time comes.