Break Line Bending Experience??? (1 Viewer)

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I've bent lines for hydraulics on aircraft before, it's not that difficult to do but takes some skill. You have to be able to practice on some old lines to get the hang of it then just try to form it as you go. You'll need a bending tool and a flare tool with sleeves and backing nuts. There may be some help on line.
like here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6KRNRQzbRUo
 
here is a good tip....Get the basic pattern going with clothes hangers before bending up your line.
 
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For the coils down by the clutch slave cylinder I wrapped the pipe around my 46mm crankshaft socket.

Bending circles suck.

I totally suck at double flairing the ends as well.

You can get metric 3/16" brake line from most places that sell standard brake line.
 
Two hints that helped me replace all the lines on my truck. They are free and work quite well:

1. Fill the brake line or hydraulic line with sand. This keeps the line from collapsing when bending, and the sand comes right out when you're done. Blow it out with air to make sure.

2. Use a full 20 oz. or pop can to be your radius and bend the line around that, you can't go wrong!

:beer:
Brian
 
So far I have bent all my own Cruiser lines.

The two lines I have not been able to figure out how to make are the coiled lines on the firewall that allow the body to flex. My bender will not make circles. :crybaby: Time to upgrade bender? :D The coat hanger idea works very well as does using the old line as a perfect template.

Advanced Auto sells various length 3/16 brake line with 2 10mm x 1 ferrules. Up to 6' long. Using these pieces you can quickly make up replacement lines. Cut the line to length, slip the other ferrule on and double flare. You only have to make one flare per section and you have a perfect flare to use as a guide!

If you want to totally 'roll your own' you can buy the 10mm x 1 ferrules and 20' coils of 3/16 line at many places.

I'm using a double flare tool kit I got at Advance Auto. While not the Snap-On quality tool that Poser would use it makes a good flare.

Making good double flares take practice! Once you have your new line bent, use the old lines to practice making flares. Follow the directions. A tiny amount of oil on the forming head helps make smooth flares. :beer:
 
I think the early trucks have a, very hard to locate new, 9mm fitting.

For where you need long lines get the straight sections. I have no idea how one would straighten the coiled line to look right.
 
I did my latest project using AN fittings and standard line. You can get metric to AN adapters for the calipers. AN is way easier to work with and any speed shop has loads of fittings and flex lines to suit any application.
front axle.jpg
 
I used the kind that you dont need a bender to bend.. you can bend them by hand... you buy them in premade sizes so you have to deal with that... but you dont have to flare them.... bought at nappa
 
Heres the best tip for easy bending of brake lines...

Get a spring (tightly wound) with an ID just a hair bigger than the OD of the line. It needs to be about 8+ inches long. Slide the spring over your line, and bend the line holding the spring. Using this method prevents any binding whatsoever. You can find these spings at your local ACE, Home Depot etc...

this way you dont have to have fluid in the line, and you can do really tight turns... :cheers:
 
For those full 360* (or more) circles I used large diameter deep sockets or 2" or larger PVC pipe and carefully bent the tubing around them to get the needed circles. Works great.
 
I got a 25 foot roll of 3/16 tube from www.classictube.com part # C3, plus 16 ST8086 10mm x 1.0 fittings. Total with shipping $38.32!

These are much higher quality fittings than you will get with the premade tube at PepBoys or Advance. The tubing feels more substantial as well.

Then you need a double flare tool. and a set of 3/16 dies.

Even though I was a bit nervous about the process, I think I only bunged up one flare. The rest came out perfect and have run for 9 months on my FJ40 with not a single issue.

I would convert the old 9mm stuff to the later and more standard 10mm stuff. I don't think a source exists for the 9mm fittings unless your old ones can be reused.
 
blueticker17 said:
Thanks guys.
The rolled line, how the hell do you get it back straight or do you just recommend getting straight line to start with.
And is 10mm the correct size for a 1964 FJ45?
Click to expand...

Straighten the line out best you can, then clamp one end in a vise and use a pair of vise grips to pull the other. Put a little muslce into it and it'll get pretty straight. Straight enough to use efficiently.
 
My bender is by KD. Part KD 2189 Tubing Bender. It comes with with two discs, each with 2 different tube sizes. It's like a large scissor/plier thing that you place the tubing in and squeeze to get the bends you want. Works pretty well. The different size coils work well also.
 
Just make all you bends over a knee...it actually works very well. Back and forth motion while continually applying more pressure...and just keep working a tighter radius each pass.
 
Best advise I can give is to use braided lines from the front axle housing directly to the caliper, bypassing the brakeline junction at the top of the backing plate. Can't tell you how many times I've had to get into my front housing w/ greasy hands, drop the caliper or it falls & either crack the seal or break the line :mad:
 
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