Also, I haven't heard anything good about the Eldorado calipers. The GM parking brake is designed for the pull of a foot lever, and the cruiser hand lever won't pull enough cable to fully engage the park brake.
Will a 4runner or T-100 master cylinder bolt into the existing setup too? Id like to do this swap myself but ive never delved into the brakes on this truck before. I got my master cylinder replaced a couple years ago, i wish i had told the guy i wanted to upgrade it (stupid)
Also, I haven't heard anything good about the Eldorado calipers. The GM parking brake is designed for the pull of a foot lever, and the cruiser hand lever won't pull enough cable to fully engage the park brake.
Also, I haven't heard anything good about the Eldorado calipers. The GM parking brake is designed for the pull of a foot lever, and the cruiser hand lever won't pull enough cable to fully engage the park brake.
True, but seeing as how I'm sure none of us really just give the ebrake handle a slow steady pull (I really reef on mine), I don't think it's an issue when you're just trying to keep the truck from moving. I'll find out more once I'm able to rig the cable on my truck. Hoping for next weekend (getting the brakes on this Saturday if all goes well).
Hey Spook, did you ever rig up that e-brake cable. I am not really happy with either the action or stopping power on mine. I really have to crank on it and it will still roll on a hill. I read something somewhere about grinding something off to help with, but to me it looks like the long spring to return the lever prevents the e-brake from going far enough to really engage.
I can't find where I ready that, but has anyone else done this that can provide good pocs or a good explanation on this. I need to get this done and with my limited wrench time, I need to be prepared.
Hey Spook, did you ever rig up that e-brake cable. I am not really happy with either the action or stopping power on mine. I really have to crank on it and it will still roll on a hill. I read something somewhere about grinding something off to help with, but to me it looks like the long spring to return the lever prevents the e-brake from going far enough to really engage.
I can't find where I ready that, but has anyone else done this that can provide good pocs or a good explanation on this. I need to get this done and with my limited wrench time, I need to be prepared.
I got it all rigged, but I don't like the way it's rigged now, so I'm gonna redo it with a Lokar kit. It's kind of hard to describe, but when I release the ebrake, one brake will completely release while the other maintains slight contact with the rotor, making it squeal at low speeds. I just got back from working swing shift, so I'll post up a bit more in depth tomorrow.
