Brake Guru's got one for you (1 Viewer)

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May 14, 2010
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Alright my mechanic friends... I got yet another brain buster for you.

So I just did the brakes on my LX470. However, we are having an issue with one of the 4 corners (right rear) overheating. And just to recap...we did LOADED calipers with new pads, brackets, and hardware included, all of the slide pins and everything were all lubed up like they should be. Along with new rotors, new parking brake shoes, and new stainless steel brake lines (instead of the original rubber hoses).

When we first finished the install, it drove fine. No noticeable problems, brakes actually worked better than we've ever seen them before. We did some hard stops, could smell the heat, but figured that was normal break-in and nothing much to worry about. But we took a laser gun that measures temp, shot each of the 4 rotors. The other 3 were totally fine and consistent with each other (roughly 120 degrees), but the right rear was showing over 200 degrees. We took the rotor to a shop and had it spun on a lathe, and it was VERY badly warped. So we pretty much figured that it was probably a defective caliper that was probably getting stuck, not releasing like it should, and dragging causing the excessive heat...which in turn probably caused the new rotor to warp. So we got a replacement caliper and another rotor. Put them on last night, drove it and did some more hard stops and then checked the temps, and they were all good and consistent with each other.

So horray! Problem solved we thought! But then after driving it today, just normal driving, no hard stops... and the rotor was showing 240 degrees! I'm out of ideas! Maybe the new brake line is defective and has an internal defect/restriction we can't see causing it to have problems with releasing hydraulic pressure? I put the old OE brake line on and originally was fixed but the problem is back But I don't know...I'm really just grasping at straws at this point! We ruled out the possibility of it being parking brake shoes dragging because of where on the rotor we are measuring the heat, plus the adjustment was set back a little too loose if anything, because there wasn't much tension when you pull the hand brake. Does anybody else have any ideas? What else it could possibly be?

I have since replaced the caliper with a newly refurbished Raybestos caliper and have gone thru 3 rotors so far. Part of the problem is likely the Napa rotors that are made in China as one or more have been not true out of the box. Although the other rear Napa rotor is just fine. This whole thing has been very frustrating and causing me to not be able to take the LX on a family vacation to the beach.

Any ideas friends?
 
Stop Tech
 
My suggestion was going to be some contamination in the system, possible the new line. But I did notice that you re-installed the old one.

Did you verify that the caliper pressure is actually going down to zero after brake release? I.e. press the brakes, and release. Then immediately open the bleed screw to see if there is residual pressure?

If you are suspicious about a restriction, I would disconnect the caliper and try to flush the line out that way. Collect in a clean container and inspect the flushed fluid. Any chance that contaminants got pushed back in the system when you originally replaced the caliper?

Also, I would ensure that the pads line up with the rotor when actuated and release parallel to the rotor. Maybe the mounts got bent and the side loading on the slider pins and/or piston prevents the release of brake clamping?
 
Thanks White lx,
I will do this and advise........

Any other ideas are welcome.

TIA

TLC Dan
 
Okay guy at work got a brand new 2500 Ram with a Commins. He had a similar problem the dealer gave up on it took a few months found the problem was a bent caliper bracket. He shimmied one side reinstalled and that fixed the problem. So he got a new bracket and he hasn't had the problem since. The shim was just a few thousandths thick could not tell by looking.
 
Well,
Nothing that has been suggested and tried has changed anything.

Thanks for all the suggestions and if anyone can think of anything please let me know........
 
I'll assume you did a normal bedding (seating) of your new pads & rotors!

Have you checked the disk (rotor) and axle hub runouts to make sure they're true.

You may need to check braking pressure at each rear caliper bleeder, to see if rear LH & RH are balanced. Could be LH is not actually working, working RH harder and overheating it. Or RH is over pressurized.

When using non OEM parts, well, it's a slippery slope.
 
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Stop Tech
I had issue with StopTech. They have swivel at flare nut that if not aligned prefect with flare will leak. Also they have a coating on male tip of flare inside nut. Once removed they can't be reused IMO. I send Shoptech's back and picked some up from Slee's, they didn't leak. But they like Shoptech don't have the factory banjos or front hose stays.

I later found a set I like much better, as they're identical to FACTORY BRAKE HOSES, except they're braided SS.

Scored a 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.
Brake Caliper guru's
Brake pipe Flare nut stuck, Installing SS Braided Brake lines
 
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Give the ABS controller a tap.
Just a thought since there is no longer a direct relationship between the brake pedal and the brakes.
 
Could be an issue with non-OEM parts.

Try swapping left side brake pads and rotor to right side and vise versa.
 
Pdxlc,
After my local mechanic couldn't figure out the problem i decided to try and swap the rear rotors left to right and the problem followed the rotor (should have headed nissanh's advice first before taking it to the mechanic). The Chinese rotor was not dissipating the heat and it just kept rising. I ended up buying 2 Toyota rotors and the problem was fixed. Keep in mind that the parking break will cause excessive heat to the rotor if making contact at all. I had to play with the adjustment several times and finally gave up. It has finally calmed down now that the shoes have worn down/in. When you check the temps with your infrared gun (assuming you are using one) check the rotor and the drum portion that the parking brake makes contact with. my drum portion was many times 50-75 degrees hotter but has finally gotten down to near similar temps. I think part of the problem is with the new parking brake shoes that i got from Rock Auto for $12. They were likely actually swelling slightly after they got warm thus heating up the rotor and causing noticeable drag after 10 miles or so....

Good luck

TLC Dan
 
I had issue with StopTech. They have swivel at flare nut that if not aligned prefect with flare will leak. Also they have a coating on male tip of flare inside nut. Once removed they can't be reused IMO. I send Shoptech's back and picked some up from Slee's, they didn't leak. But they like Shoptech don't have the factory banjos or front hose stays.

I later found a set I like much better, as they're identical to FACTORY BRAKE HOSES, except they're braided SS.

Scored a 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.
Brake Caliper guru's
Brake pipe Flare nut stuck, Installing SS Braided Brake lines

Read through but not 100% sure I see a confirmed recommendation? So SafeBrake is the way to go?
 
I recently did the rear rotors with OEM. Initially I had the park brake handle to stop just at 4 or 5 clicks. When I pulled the old rear rotors, I saw brake shoe rubbing marks on the rotor, so I loosen the park brake to apply at 10 clicks now. I also have those cheap park brake shoes. Must get OEM for those later.
 
Read through but not 100% sure I see a confirmed recommendation? So SafeBrake is the way to go?
YES, SafeBrake!

Although I've not yet installed them, they have the Fix Point for knuckle and Pin caliper lock in fronts and rear banjo is designed (based on shape) to fit in the horns. These are just like OEM design form what I can tell. The fix point for securing to knuckle, the Pin and the fitting horns are all to keep brake line banjo from moving, which I feel is best. What I can't say, is how well they fit or if they a difficult to keep from leaking.

Another member order, and I've not heard if he installed. But he made a mistake when order and bought the set for lifted rigs. I'm sure he would've been fine. He called the company and explained, they sent him a second set free (keeping 1st set also). Nice CS!

All question I emailed them, response timely and shipping was fast.

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