Brake flush experience

[slicky rick]

In a scale of 1 to 10 this is a 2.
Steps:
1. Remove old fluid by sucking out from reservoir.. i used a big syringe... get as much without going below minimum
2. Fill up with new brake fluid.. i used the new bosch brake fluid. Compatible with dot 3, 4 or 5
3. Turn on ignition. Start bleeding in front right. Turn wheel to left most.. you can access bleeder. Have another person to pump and hold brakes. Bleed brakes until fluid clear.
4. Bleed left front. Turn steering wheel right most and bleed accordingly
5. Always check level of brake fluid in reservoir to make sure dont go below min.
6. Move to the rear right. Make sure ignition is on. Crawl underneath to access bleeder valve.. have someone step on brakes. Do not pump, just step on brake pedal. Crack open bleeder and fluid will flow out continously. Close when fluid is clear.
7. Do to left rear wheel. Ignition on. Brake pedal depressed. Open bleeder. Close when fluid is clear.
Flush done!! 30 minutes tops.
Pedal feel actually improved!! Maybe bosch fluid better.

 

[paulunm]

I've always done furthest bleeder to nearest bleeder- to the reservoir. So pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front. Any reason you went the other way?

 

[TeCKis300]

I've always done furthest bleeder to nearest bleeder- to the reservoir. So pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front. Any reason you went the other way?

While that's probably true for old brake systems, the electric brake booster style system in the 200-series recommends starting with the front axle, passenger caliper.

 

[Cruisin911]

I've always done furthest bleeder to nearest bleeder- to the reservoir. So pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front. Any reason you went the other way?

I stand corrected....

 

[paulunm]

While that's probably true for old brake systems, the electric brake booster style system in the 200-series recommends starting with the front axle, passenger caliper.

View attachment 2623768

Wow interesting. Any idea if the brake booster system wouldn’t work with a pressure bleeder? I assume it won’t?

 

[TeCKis300]

Wow interesting. Any idea if the brake booster system wouldn’t work with a pressure bleeder? I assume it won’t?

I had the same question as I have a Motive Power Bleeder. The rear axle may not work because it seems to be electrically pumped? Rather than figure it out, I just had my daughter help to manually step on the brake per the repair manual.

Wonder if anyone else may know?

 

[paulunm]

I had the same question as I have a Motive Power Bleeder. The rear axle may not work because it seems to be electrically pumped? Rather than figure it out, I just had my daughter help to manually step on the brake per the repair manual.

Wonder if anyone else may know?

I’ve never bled anything without the Motive, so I’m nervous about getting air into the system using the brake method. (Total noob)

do you close the bleeder when the brake pedal is released?

 

[RT Cruiser]

I flushed the brake fluid the old school way by placing the drain hose from the bleed valve down into a container filled with old brake fluid. The end of the hose in the container was covered with about 2-3" of old fluid. Didn't use a bleeder or tool, but my foot and constantly filling the reservoir with new fluid. I did the valves in this order:

• Front right
• Front left
• Rear right
• Rear left

I used Prestone Dot 3 Synthetic.

 

[CharlieS]

In the past I was taught to flush the line furthest from the master cylinder first and move progressively toward the closest. Is that not how you do it on the cruiser? I have an adapter for the cruiser for my motive power bleeder but haven’t had a chance to use it yet.

 

[NYC570]

You guys don't flush the ABS system?

 

[slicky rick]

I too have the motive but decided to go with toyota recommended method. Its so simple anyway. There must be a reason why toyota suggested to start in front... i agree, all y other cars start at the farthest brake from the reservoir ,not for this case... no need to bleed abs, no repairs done nor was the reservoir level drained to allow air to come in... this is for the basic maintenance flush

 

[NYC570]

I too have the motive but decided to go with toyota recommended method. Its so simple anyway. There must be a reason why toyota suggested to start in front... i agree, all y other cars start at the farthest brake from the reservoir ,not for this case... no need to bleed abs, no repairs done nor was the reservoir level drained to allow air to come in... this is for the basic maintenance flush

But there's fluid in the ABS system. If you want a complete flush, ABS has to be flushed.

 

[bloc]

But there's fluid in the ABS system. If you want a complete flush, ABS has to be flushed.

And the accumulator bled.

I don’t see it on the above procedure but pressing the brakes repeatedly with the ignition off to depressurize the accumulator is somewhere in the FSM. This pushes any old fluid located inside it out to the reservoir where it can be pumped back up with fresh fluid if it’s available next time the ignition is switched on

In fact on 100-series you are supposed to bleed the accumulator before checking fluid level.. otherwise if you fill the res and it bleeds down for some reason when sitting for a while it’ll overflow the res

 

[bentonrover]

Interesting write up. Seems very simple. I always thought you needed the techstream for this. Now I know. Thanks

 

[RT Cruiser]

I don’t see it on the above procedure but pressing the brakes repeatedly with the ignition off to depressurize the accumulator is somewhere in the FSM. This pushes any old fluid located inside it out to the reservoir where it can be pumped back up with fresh fluid if it’s available next time the ignition is switched on

This is what I did. I used about 3 quarts. Not sure about getting every last drop of the old fluid but with the new Power Stop brakes and fresh fluid, the new braking was spot-on.

 

[gaijin]

And the accumulator bled.

I don’t see it on the above procedure but pressing the brakes repeatedly with the ignition off to depressurize the accumulator is somewhere in the FSM. This pushes any old fluid located inside it out to the reservoir where it can be pumped back up with fresh fluid if it’s available next time the ignition is switched on

In fact on 100-series you are supposed to bleed the accumulator before checking fluid level.. otherwise if you fill the res and it bleeds down for some reason when sitting for a while it’ll overflow the res

I think this is what you are referring to:

Now here's my stupid question:

If I just want to remove some old fluid from the reservoir and replace it with fresh fluid, what brake fluid should I use?

To be safe, I'm tempted to use the "SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT 3" fluid specified in the FSM - but could/should I use DOT 4 or even DOT 5 instead? OK to mix these newer variants with the older stuff?

Thanks for any thoughts.

 

[bloc]

I think this is what you are referring to:

View attachment 2624126

Now here's my stupid question:

If I just want to remove some old fluid from the reservoir and replace it with fresh fluid, what brake fluid should I use?

To be safe, I'm tempted to use the "SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT 3" fluid specified in the FSM - but could/should I use DOT 4 or even DOT 5 instead? OK to mix these newer variants with the older stuff?

Thanks for any thoughts.

Generally you can mix dot 3 & 4, but not 5.

Personally I don’t see any reason to go up from the OE dot 3 spec as long as you use quality fluid and bleed it often enough. If toyota anticipated temps in our braking system to be greater than what dot 3 can handle, they would have specified dot 4.

Plus, dot 3 is usually less hygroscopic than dot 4 so it theoretically can go longer between bleeds.

 

[gaijin]

Generally you can mix dot 3 & 4, but not 5.

Personally I don’t see any reason to go up from the OE dot 3 spec as long as you use quality fluid and bleed it often enough. If toyota anticipated temps in our braking system to be greater than what dot 3 can handle, they would have specified dot 4.

Plus, dot 3 is usually less hygroscopic than dot 4 so it theoretically can go longer between bleeds.

Makes perfect sense. Thank you!

 

[RatherBeRacing]

I just did mine too. Super easy. Put car car in high more and turn front wheels. I started in the back and flushed half a liter out with wife pressing brake pedal. Then I moved to front and did the old school method a few times.
Then I used Techstream for bleeding front and then rear. I'm not sure if techstream opens the ABS lines and the pump. I only had 1L of DOT3. I will do this again in a year or so.

+1 on using DOT3...I also thought it lasts longer compared to DOT4. Also keep in mind it's not just about the fluid but also additive package in the fluid. The higher performance the fluid the more often it needs to be flushed. 3 year old DOT3, was super clean with no air.

 

[slicky rick]

2016 reservoir says dot3 or dot4 fluid can be used