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Brake clunk when stopping

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by mendedback, Nov 6, 2003.

  1. mendedback

    mendedback

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    Have a 97 TLC with 117k in great running condition. When I apply the brake and stop the front end seems to have a "clunking" feel, not severe - but noticeable, when comming to a full stop.

    This does not happen when accelerating from a full stop. I think that it maybe the calipers/pads but not sure how to test this.

    Any comments/help appreciated!
     
  2. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

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    My 95 with 117,000 does the same thing. I also burn up pads on the DS front much quicker than the PS. I'm sure the caliper is sticking. Next brake job is going to include loaded calipers on both sides.
     
  3. Scamper

    Scamper

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    Mine does the same thing since new...don't think it's sticky calipers. I recall a thread on this a while back having to do with the tranny or some setting within--never got to it nor does it bother me that much.

    Tom
     
  4. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

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    No. I've got the AWD clunk too, always have. This one is different. It's a noticable binding clunk from the front, not so much the occasional thud from the drivetrain windup.
     
  5. LX450

    LX450

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    Me too, I have this annoying thump when coming to a stop on my LX 450 also. It's seems to be coming from the drive train or transmisson. I have posted this issue before and based on the responses, I beleive it may be the tranny kickdown cable needing adjustment.
     
  6. IdahoDoug

    IdahoDoug

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    You guys need to do a bit better job describing the clunk's timing. "When coming to a stop" pretty much describes the entire braking process. How about something like "It clunks when the vehicle has come to rest and the car settles back on its springs." or the like.

    Doug
     
  7. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

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    My clunk actually happens on restart or if I release the brakes after slowing nearly to a stop.
     
  8. IdahoDoug

    IdahoDoug

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    Todd,

    Sounds very much like the splines of your drive shafts are dry or have dried grease in them. The rear will bind slightly elongated as you come to rest with engine torque providing the force to keep them stuck. When you let off the brakes, the torque drops and the rear simultaneously drops. The sound is simply the splines coming unstuck. Try greasing them every week if he first grease job doesn't do it.

    Doug
     
  9. 97cruiser

    97cruiser

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    Doug, By puttin a shot of grease in there every week wouldn't we risk overfilling them thus creating hydraulic pressure and damaging a thrust bearing or some other part I know nothing about ? I only ask cuz I recently ( and still do ) have this problem with slight clunk . Per instructions from this board I greased all zerks and clunking was gone for a few days but soon returned. I would love to get under there and grease them again but fear overfilling them. The 1st time I put several shots in there and noticed the shaft moving with each shot and was informed by this board that that could be detrimental and to take off the driveshaft zerks off and drive on a rough road for a bit to get any excess grease out.
    Thnx ,Vince
     
  10. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

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    [quote author=IdahoDoug link=board=2;threadid=7211;start=msg60136#msg60136 date=1068179147]
    Todd,

    Sounds very much like the splines of your drive shafts are dry or have dried grease in them. The rear will bind slightly elongated as you come to rest with engine torque providing the force to keep them stuck. When you let off the brakes, the torque drops and the rear simultaneously drops. The sound is simply the splines coming unstuck. Try greasing them every week if he first grease job doesn't do it.

    Doug
    [/quote]

    I'll give it a shot, but I have kept the shafts pretty well maintained. My noise seems to come from the front left and I do have a pad that wears faster than the others up there.
     
  11. mendedback

    mendedback

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    [quote author=IdahoDoug link=board=2;threadid=7211;start=msg60136#msg60136 date=1068179147]
    Todd,

    Sounds very much like the splines of your drive shafts are dry or have dried grease in them. The rear will bind slightly elongated as you come to rest with engine torque providing the force to keep them stuck. When you let off the brakes, the torque drops and the rear simultaneously drops. The sound is simply the splines coming unstuck. Try greasing them every week if he first grease job doesn't do it.

    Doug
    [/quote]

    You nailed it! I greased the shaft (rear first) & test drove around the block... no more clunk! Breaking hard, soft, accelerating, etc. Nice to keep it simple. Was fearing the worst... tranny, breaks & assorted nightmares.

    Now I've also greased the front & I'll keep this regime up - I think that the shafts were not greased in the past few oil changes & dried up.

    Thanks all for the useful comments - I'll report if this doesn't solve the noise on extended driving. Next install ARB lockers & replace timing belt.
     
  12. sjcruiser

    sjcruiser

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    Mendedback,

    You have timing chain - not belts (or did you mean drive belts ?)

    cheers,
    Frank.
     
  13. IdahoDoug

    IdahoDoug

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    Vince,

    Over filling the shafts (especially the rear) is a very real concern. However, greasing them every week does not cause the condition that overfilling them will. When you grease them with a few squirts from a hand gun, driving even a short distance distributes the grease and the excess dribbles out the forward end of the splines. So, after driving a bit, you can grease them again because the quantity inside has been reduced.

    Your comment that yours moved almost from the first squirt brings up an important point. If the shaft has been neglected and the grease on the splines dries, even a small amount pumped in may tend to elongate the shaft. Movement of the shaft should in all cases be the time to stop. If, as you seem to have experienced, the first squirt or two moves the shaft - stop. Go for a drive that includes a few large SLOW bumps. Don't hammer over a curb or speedbump as you'll put tremendous force on things if the splines are not allowed to move.

    After a few of these cycles, the new grease should have gently gotten past the dried stuff and caused it to start coming loose. After I grease my driveshafts, I make it a point to drive it around the block to work things through just to avoid the possibility that my wife might leave the drive in a hurry and hit the bump at the end hard enough to do damage before the grease works its way through.


    Doug
     
  14. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    A drive shaft foot note.

    Q : What do you think could happen if you had the vehicle up on a hoist with the suspension un-loaded and you greased the slip yokes up real good?
     
  15. Wayne

    Wayne Bought by His blood, kept by His power

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    Applying the laws of hydraulics when the Cruiser is lowered to the ground........ :'( :'( you ain't gonna be happy :slap:

    Wayne S
     
  16. 97cruiser

    97cruiser

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    Doug, Thanks for the thorough response . I didn't realize from previous readings the mechanics of the driveshaft , now I do. Thannk you! Anyhow , I went out and gave all zerks 2 shots except the rear shaft (ran out of grease) and low and behold my slight clunk is gone . Does this mean anything to you ? Seeing how only the front driveshaft and u-joints got grease? I also noted that the front shaft did not elongate with the 2 shots this time. It had several last time before it elongated.

    Thnx , Vince
     
  17. IdahoDoug

    IdahoDoug

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    Actually, that's quite interesting Vince. I've always assumed the rear would be the biggest 'clunk' culprit. I've never just greased one or the other, so new data point for all. Might depend upon which axle has the largest diameter tire(s) (wear varies a bit even if all 4 bought together). Thanks.

    Doug
     
  18. cruiserman

    cruiserman

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    [quote author=Gumby link=board=2;threadid=7211;start=msg59995#msg59995 date=1068162813]
    Next brake job is going to include loaded calipers on both sides.
    [/quote]

    I hope you're getting jobber price on those. Cha-ching!
     
  19. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

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    110.44 each. Pricey, but not too bad considering what the general public pays to get their brakes worked on.
     
  20. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    >> You have timing chain - not belts <<

    And the timing chain should last until engine rebuild time. It does not require routine replacement or maintenance.

    -B-