Brake booster removal/install

[thuffman]

OK, removed master cylinder, disconnected booster from brake pedal, removed 4 nuts holding booster in place from inside cabin, but when I tried to get it out of the engine bay, the intake manifolds in the way. I search the archives and found others with the same issue but no one answered the question, "Does the manifold need to be removed to remove the brake booster?" Could someone whose done this repair please advise.

TIA

 

[super90]

While the FSM doesn't say so, the Haynes manual says to remove the clevis from the back of the brake booster inside the truck....

"...Locate the pushrod clevis connecting the booster to the brake pedal. It's accessible from inside the vehicle, under the dashboard.

Remove the clevis pin retaining clip with pliers.

Holding the clevis with pliers, loosen the locknut with a wrench. Note: It isn't necessary to remove the clevis, unless the new booster unit isn't equipped with one. Remove the clevis pin

Disconnect the hose from the brake booster. Be careful not to damege the hose when removing it from the booster fitting.

Remove the four nuts and washers holding the brake booster to the firewall

Slide the booster straight out from the firewall until the studs clear the holes."


I don't know if this helps or not, never done this job on this truck, but maybe this will provide some insight.

But for the love of God, don't start trying to remove the intake !!!!

Keep the Cruiser Faith,

R.

 

[super90]

Try this...

4x4Wire - Brake Booster Replacement

 

[thuffman]

Try this...

4x4Wire - Brake Booster Replacement

super90 thanx. In this removal process he indicates it's tight but he was able to "wiggle" it out without removing the intake manifold.

 

[super90]

You might want to remove the clevis from the pushrod on the back of the booster to gain some "wiggle room" coming out of the firewall.

 

[GPOCruiser]

I just did this about 2 months ago. I had searched everywhere trying to figure out how to remove it when I was taking one off my wrecked '93 with no luck on how to get it out. I ended up buying one from Napa for about $250 took it home and was determined to get it changed out. Unbolted the booster, master cylinder ( I left the brake lines attached and carefully moved it out of the way ), and clevis from the pedal then removed both motor mount bolts ( the single bolt under the main mount on both sides ) used an engine hoist to lift it up off the mounts a few inches had my father-in-law push the motor to the passenger side and with a little wiggling it came right out. The biggest pain was putting it back in as Napa rebuilt it and put the front cover on upside down ( the pushrod for the pedal is not centered in the 4 bolt pattern that goes in the firewall ) so my vacume hose is on the bottom rather than the top. No adjustments were needed on the master cylinder pushrod. I have gotten so much help and tricks on mud I am glad to give something back. Sorry for not putting this write-up out sooner, Ihave been pretty busy. Hope this helps you and many others, its's the least I can give back. BTW mine had about 250K miles on it when it gradually quit helping me stop this overengineered beast.

 

[Tapage]

Luck I do it in my HDJ-80 with no problems .. no really intereference with the intake in my 1HD-T ( no much contribution in this post .. )

 

[thuffman]

I just did this about 2 months ago. I had searched everywhere trying to figure out how to remove it when I was taking one off my wrecked '93 with no luck on how to get it out. I ended up buying one from Napa for about $250 took it home and was determined to get it changed out. Unbolted the booster, master cylinder ( I left the brake lines attached and carefully moved it out of the way ), and clevis from the pedal then removed both motor mount bolts ( the single bolt under the main mount on both sides ) used an engine hoist to lift it up off the mounts a few inches had my father-in-law push the motor to the passenger side and with a little wiggling it came right out. The biggest pain was putting it back in as Napa rebuilt it and put the front cover on upside down ( the pushrod for the pedal is not centered in the 4 bolt pattern that goes in the firewall ) so my vacume hose is on the bottom rather than the top. No adjustments were needed on the master cylinder pushrod. I have gotten so much help and tricks on mud I am glad to give something back. Sorry for not putting this write-up out sooner, Ihave been pretty busy. Hope this helps you and many others, its's the least I can give back. BTW mine had about 250K miles on it when it gradually quit helping me stop this overengineered beast.

Boy GPO I'm glad I read your post. I got my unit and couldn't figure out why I can't get the four bolts thru the firewalll. I suspect I'm having the same problem and need to remove and "flip" the unit where the check value is on the bottom. BTW I ordered mine from autopartswarehouse.com.

UPDATE. I was wrong. I didn't have the same problem as GPOCruiser. My unit was assembled properly

 

[thuffman]

Is there a trick getting it thru firewall?

I've attempted at least five times to get this thing thru the firewall without success. Is there some trick I'm missing? All the holes inside the engine line up but I can't get the 4 mounting screws thru so I can bolt the booster down. HELP!!

 

[GPOCruiser]

So did you get it installed, or are you still having problems? I also had to reuse the rubber grommet and check valve from my old booster, the rebuilt one was a little loose and the pedal didn't feel right. After I changed it to the tighter fitting origional the pedal felt alot better, it was leaking vacume pressure. The grommet just pulls out and is not attached to anything inside the booster.

 

[thuffman]

Can't get it thru the firewall

GPO, I did get it kinda installed. What I'm having a major problem with is getting the 4 bolts to line up thru the firewall. There appears to be a piece between the wall inside the engine and the one inside the compartment. Each time I get the screws of the booster thru the holes in the engine area I can never get them thru into the compartment. I've tried putting a large philips screw driver thru one hole to hold whatever is getting misaligned in place with no success. With the booster out, however, I can easily push the screwdriver thru each hole individually without problem. It's only when I attempt to install the booster "something" gets skewed - HELP!

 

[GPOCruiser]

I'm at work and didn't drive the cruiser so I can' see what might get in the way. You can look in the floorboard area to see what is misaligned inside once you get it in the holes. It may be the pedal assembly, if there are other bolts that hold the pedal assembly loosen them and wiggle it in, unless the assembly is welded in, but I beleive it is bolted in. I've had Toyotas since I was 16 and I'm 35 now and I never let anyone work on them but me. Good luck, I'll keep checking back and will look at the cruiser when I get home.

 

[thuffman]

GOT IT!

GPO, I did get it kinda installed. What I'm having a major problem with is getting the 4 bolts to line up thru the firewall. There appears to be a piece between the wall inside the engine and the one inside the compartment. Each time I get the screws of the booster thru the holes in the engine area I can never get them thru into the compartment. I've tried putting a large philips screw driver thru one hole to hold whatever is getting misaligned in place with no success. With the booster out, however, I can easily push the screwdriver thru each hole individually without problem. It's only when I attempt to install the booster "something" gets skewed - HELP!

I finally got the four bolts on the booster thru the firewall. The reason I was unsuccessful on the first attempt using the philips screwdriver is I had it in the wrong hole. What was happening is each time I "wiggled" the booster around the intake manifold, I would have the lower left bolt (closest to the manifold) inserted into the hole. The problem was the screwdriver was in the top right hole thru the firewall. This was NOT providing the alignment I needed to keep the brace located between the engine compartment and the floor board from moving. I would always end up on top of the brace not thru the brace hole which caused the whole unit to shift. Once I figured this out, I subsituted the screwdriver for an allen wrench and place it in the upper left hole, again, near the manifold. After negotiating the upper left bolt into position, I was able to get all four bolts thru. Now I'm dealing with alignment of the plate that holds the bracket for the brake pedal. More fun and games.

 

[scoop]

Try this...

4x4Wire - Brake Booster Replacement

Thanks with the help of your link i figured out my problem. I have to remove the master and make an adjustment. I must have to much play the pedel stops before I have full pressure on the pads. PS you are correct it will come out but it is a tight fit.

Thanks

 

[scoop]

Update: I adjusted the play in the rod about 10 times. The peddle kept bottoming out before I had full braking. I finnaly went so far the brakes were dragging and I still did not have full braking. I exchanged the booster for another one and brakes work perfectly. Be carful with rebuilt boosters. Hope I have not screwed up the new rotors I installed over the winter.

 

[AZ2ME]

First, thanks to all who've posted on this thread. You've provided invaluable info on the R/R of the brake booster.
And thanks to cdan for the parts.

Just wanted to add to the thread that I was able to remove and install the booster w/o moving the engine or removing the manifold. It was a tight fit, but only took about 5 minutes once the MC was out of the way.

 

[GEspo]

IMPORTANT!!! I attempted to remove my booster this am after reading this thread. READ THIS FIRST!!!! The part of the booster that comes through the firewall can be pushed into the booster to gain the necessary clearance, and is probably done from the inside while removing. When reinstalling first put the connecting rod through the firewall with the boot up against the firewall, then push.. it will compress the part in the boot into the booster to gain necessary clearance to push past the manifold.

 

[Ruggedly]

IMPORTANT!!! I attempted to remove my booster this am after reading this thread. READ THIS FIRST!!!! The part of the booster that comes through the firewall can be pushed into the booster to gain the necessary clearance, and is probably done from the inside while removing. When reinstalling first put the connecting rod through the firewall with the boot up against the firewall, then push.. it will compress the part in the boot into the booster to gain necessary clearance to push past the manifold.

How much compression can you expect? Can you clarify a bit? I'm running into the manifold while trying to remove mine and could use any clearance gains possible! Thanks!

 

[Bambusiero]

I just did this a week ago.
Attempting to short cut the job cost me even more time and hassle.
Commit to a complete brake fluid flush. Admit it - it's been too long anyway, right?

0) You need the 2 cheap thin paper gaskets on hand before starting.
1) Suck brake fluid out of the master cylinder.
2) Remove brake lines that tie the master cylinder in place. Both ends. Just get them entirely out of the way.
3) Remove master cylinder. Really easy now.
4) Remove booster. Really easy now.
5) Out on the bench - take some time and care to adjust the new booster's push-rod length, where it's all easy to see.
Include gasket thickness.
You don't need that special SST depth transfer tool.
Use the tail of a veneer caliper as depth gauge, along with straight edges and a calculator.
The adjustment was spot on when re-assembled. Saved time and hassle there.
6) Assemble - reverse sequence. Easy.
Did need to floor jack the engine a bit for booster to intake manifold clearance. Not hard to do.
Maybe it depends on exact booster size. May vary from different sources.
7) Flush system. LPSV bleeder is where I really saw a bunch of bubbles come out.

Tried to go with the advice of those who say you can carefully bend brake tubes enough to gain clearance to get the booster out.
Did not work for me.
All that did was bend the piss out of the tubes, which took a lot of really fussy work to get them to fit again, after eventually taking them all off anyway.

 

[davidp14]

I used a helper to gently pull the mc out of the way while I slid the booster in from the top. You can move it quite a bit without hurting the lines. No bleeding necessary.

As the poster above suggests you can push the clevis into the booster a little which helps too.

Took less than an hour total.

I consider this a two person job