Brake Booster Installation (1 Viewer)

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Jun 1, 2015
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Location
Athens, GA
Well, it's been one day of ownership, and I'm already getting my hands dirty! But don't think I'm complaining, because I'm not! This is exactly why I wanted to get an 80 series. After driving the cruiser home yesterday, I noticed the brake pedal was super firm and it was requiring me to literally stand on the brakes to get the truck to stop. After some research I came to the conclusion it was obviously the brake booster. I am not handy at all, but I'm really inclined to learn about everything mechanical I can at this point in my life, and fixing things is becoming more and more fun for me. So I called NAPA and they had a brake booster for me in stock by noon, for $200, which isn't a bad price in my opinion.

Tools used:
12 mm socket wrench

View media item 33719The old booster, with the master in front of it. This is held on by four nuts.

View media item 33720Closer look, with the nuts being removed and the master sliding off. I left all of the hoses connected to the master, which made it a little hard to get the booster out. It just requires a little more shimmying. Make sure you disconnect the vacuum hose connected to the booster.

View media item 33721Inside the truck, above the brake pedal, is the back of the booster, with four nuts. If you have big fingers, you can use a 10mm wrench to take the middle nut in this photo off, which holds a little black box. It makes it easier to get to the two nuts on the left side. I just left it on.

View media item 33722View of the back of the booster with the black box in place.

View media item 33723In the foreground of this photo on the right, is the bolt that slides through the pedal to keep it in place. You'll need to remove the gold pin and unhook the black spring. Then you're good to go. Rip that sucker out.

View media item 33724After finagling the booster out.

View media item 33725New vs. Old. I had to reuse the check valve and the pedal clip from the old unit.

View media item 33726The clip is still on the old unit in this photo.

View media item 33727Check valve installed on new unit.

View media item 33728Make sure you replicate the exact height of the nut on this bolt as the old unit. I chose to leave the clip off until I had the unit back in place, but it ended up being harder for me to screw the clip back on to the bolt when it was near the pedal. I would put the clip back on and secure it in the right place before you attempt to place the new booster in place.

View media item 33729After cramming that b*tch back in it's hole.

Done! Now I can brake with ease. Time for a damn beer!

Here's a photo of the truck:
View media item 33730
Cheers!

David
 
Hint, the best time to do the PHH is while the booster is out.

Maybe you can do it when you take it back out to paint it? The "official" color is Krylon Satin black.:hillbilly:
 
The PHH was already done by the PO. I know I should take it back out and paint it. I didn't have any and I just really needed brakes!
 
Nice share...
You really need to keep all your stuff in one spot, a build thread... you can use your original post and change the title.
Just saying.
 
Thanks, I'll start with this I suppose. Could a moderator change the title of the thread for me? Moonglow Build will work.
 
OK, I'm just here to help & give suggestions...
By no means am i telling you what to do. I can delete this out if you want... As you post more & more with mud, you will get more options with mud. Like attaching pics after 100 posts. Do you have a thread tools at top right yet? If so you can change your title that way. I would use your New owner saying hey thread since you got such a grand reception.
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I know this is an old thread but... Any tips on getting that mother scratcher out of there?
 
Ok, I have a tip for the next sorry sack that has to do this job. After removing the 4 nuts off the back side of the brake booster by the pedal, there is only one nut holding the whole pedal assembly in place. Just drop it and get it out of the way. None of the holes wanted to line up going back in and I fought it for a while before dropping the pedal assembly.
 
"after cramming that b*tch back in its hole"

lol that's funny, forgot I wrote that
 
Who's the sadistic Sonofab!+ch who suggested taking out the brake pedal?
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I needed to adjust the bracket on the booster that hooks to the pedal after installation was finished. I've given my sacrifice for the day to the Land Cruiser gods.
 
The cruiser gods demand blood sacrifice or they will take your head gasket.

I just did my booster. It was intermittently losing assist and couldn't hold vacuum more than a few seconds after shutoff. It wasn't hard once I resigned myself to removing the master and pulling the other hard line in the way. Surprisingly I didn't have any problem bleeding it.
 
How much did OEM cost you? If this on fails again I'll probably have to bite the bullet as well.
 
I got it on Partsouq for $365.

There are some places that specialize in rebuilds too. I wonder if getting the OEM unit rebuilt by a reputable outfit might not be the best solution.
 
So I read all the threads on how to remove a brake booster. I have a 1997 fj80 and just replaced my booster. Mine would not come out no matter how hard I tugged and pried. I could not get the booster to clear the manifold. But I came up with a solution. I disconnected the brake master (all hydraulics left attached and moved it forward- like others have suggested). Then I pulled the booster as far forward as possible where it became stuck/pinned in position. Next I took my sawzall with about a 12 inch blade and cut the back of the booster clean in half (cutting through the four rear mounting bolts and center shaft). Then I easily removed the two pieces. Placing the new booster was a snap. I placed the two bolts closest to the fender in the holes just a bit and pushed the booster in while rotating it towards the other two holes. I am unsure if others have tried this, but it worked quite well. I was surprised, but getting the new one in was much easier than I anticipated.
 
The booster is also adjustable on the master side. Make sure the brakes are not dragging or that you don't have too much free travel.
 
Replaced my booster today. Tried to do it without removing the master cylnder but was not happening. Easy enough with the master out of the way. Now if only my helper would come home so I can bleed the system :)
 

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