BP 51

[BIC JET]

5000 miles since install. No off roading at all. Rear passenger BP 51 lower bolt came out. Any ideas on getting ar eplacement now that I am 80 miles away from the house?

 

[Itsky]

If you have the right size socket, and could get to a good hardware store, I’d pull out the other one, and try to find a similar metric bolt and washer. Or hit a toyota dealership although they probably don’t stock it.

or maybe offer someone in a sequoia or tundra some cash for theirs.

 

[TXCRSR]

Damn I hate to hear this is the second issue with your lift install. If I had one I’d head that way.

 

[kcjaz]

Is it front or rear? If front here is the part:

90105-16088 - Strut Bolt - 2008-2011 2013-2020 Toyota Land Cruiser | Boch Toyota South

2008-2011 2013-2020 Toyota Land Cruiser - Strut Bolt - 9010516088. Genuine Toyota® Parts & Accessories. Manufacturer Warranty. From the Dealership to your Door. Experts standing by.

toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com

If rear:

I can't find anything that tells me what the bolt size and thread actually is though. I'd pull the other side and check at a hardware store as suggested above.

 

[82SC]

Did you torque to spec or was it done at a shop?

I’m just curious as I’m about to install my rear struts and Project 200 videos suggest using locktite on that exact bolt. One video he uses red and the other he uses blue. And some users on this forum have said don’t use any.

I’m thinking after reading this I’m gonna use at least blue.
I think the thru bolts are less likely to rattle out. But these short bolts and nuts in the suspensions are more at risk….

 

[BIC JET]

Damn I hate to hear this is the second issue with your lift install. If I had one I’d head that way.

I am not quite ready to bash the group that installed it yet.....

 

[BIC JET]

Is it front or rear? If front here is the part:

90105-16088 - Strut Bolt - 2008-2011 2013-2020 Toyota Land Cruiser | Boch Toyota South

2008-2011 2013-2020 Toyota Land Cruiser - Strut Bolt - 9010516088. Genuine Toyota® Parts & Accessories. Manufacturer Warranty. From the Dealership to your Door. Experts standing by.

toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com

If rear:
View attachment 2706853

I can't find anything that tells me what the bolt size and thread actually is though. I'd pull the other side and check at a hardware store as suggested above.

I didn't do the install. A local outfit here in Dallas did it for me. It is the rear and the bottom bolt that goes all the way through the strut.

 

[BIC JET]

Here is a party pic.

 

[BIC JET]

Do you guys think it is the factory bolt that is reused or does OME/ARB send new ones with the kit? I can prolly get one overnighted to me for Saturday delivery if you think it is the original bolt. Anyone have a good contact at ARB/OME that I could reach out to tomorrow morning? After looking at it further, it is going into a factory threaded hole so I guess the factory bolt would be the one to use. Please advise if you know.

 

[82SC]

Yeah that’s the lower mounting pin and you can see how he’s putting the locktite on the bolt.
The front suspension has thru bolts that are like 8” that go thru the lower control arm with a nut at one end.
I’m putting on blue to be safe….

 

[bloc]

It would be the factory bolt. I’ll see if I can back one of mine out and measure it before I leave for work.

Make sure the shaft of that shock isn’t bent before you put it all together. The way it is riding inside the wheel it could have had some less-than-ideal forces applied. Also if there are ANY marks on the shaft they can lead to leaks later, and the installing shop needs to make that right.

The only reason to use thread locker is the bolt getting knocked loose from contact with rocks. The factory torque is more than enough to prevent backing out under normal use. The inherent forces on that bolt are actually reduced with suspension like BP51 due to the rod end design there, vs the molded bushing in the stock suspension. That said, no thread locker with my kings, they’ve hit rocks, still tight and in place. Maybe I should carry a spare..

 

[BIC JET]

Really appreciate the help, all the help from everyone. I am out of town, away from my lift, tools, etc. nearest dealership is 38 miles. Lexus and Toyota same part you think?

 

[bloc]

Bolt is M12x1.25, 25mm long total, with a 3.6mm washer so about 21mm thread exposed. Torque is 72ft-lb.

Yes Lexus and toyota same part. I wouldn’t count on a dealer having them though.. might need to go to a bolt warehouse.

There isn’t a lot of forward thrust on that connection so if you can get the eyelet over the post you could probably get it to stay put for road driving with some liberal heavy duty zip tie use pulling it back against the lower shock mount extension.

 

[bloc]

Something like this could help you get to the dealer without damaging things further.

Edit: one last thought. If you do this don’t tighten them up a whole lot. Want to give room for the end to flex around some but not snap the zip ties.

 

[Nola622]

It uses the factory bolt but recently OME started shipping BP-51s with a big thick washer behind the shock and a small washer in between the factory bolt and the shock. So you are potentially missing 2 OME washers as well as the Toyota bolt (depending on the date of BP51 manufacture and what hardware was shipped). If the washers weren't installed there would be play and that could have loosened the bolt. Here's a picture.

You'll be able to tell if they installed the washers correctly by checking how they did it on the other side rear lowers. I would check your rear shock top mounts as well since a lot of people install those wrong with two lipped washers facing towards each other and no extra washer to allow you to tighten down enough to keep it from squeaking. Did you ever have rear shock top mount squeak?

 

[residualboulders]

same thing happened on my FJ60 after installing OME suspension. I couldn't get it to stay tight for more than a day or two until I installed it with locktite. (not a lift issue of course) Bummer you're having the problem while out of town. I'm getting suspension kit installed this week - sounds like i'd better check these before a long trip or get some spare bolts just in case.

 

[BIC JET]

It uses the factory bolt but recently OME started shipping BP-51s with a big thick washer behind the shock and a small washer in between the factory bolt and the shock. So you are potentially missing 2 OME washers as well as the Toyota bolt (depending on the date of BP51 manufacture and what hardware was shipped). If the washers weren't installed there would be play and that could have loosened the bolt. Here's a picture.

You'll be able to tell if they installed the washers correctly by checking how they did it on the other side rear lowers. I would check your rear shock top mounts as well since a lot of people install those wrong with two lipped washers facing towards each other and no extra washer to allow you to tighten down enough to keep it from squeaking. Did you ever have rear shock top mount squeak?

View attachment 2707100

All the f'ing time on the squeak. Thanks for this.

 

[BIC JET]

Did you torque to spec or was it done at a shop?

I’m just curious as I’m about to install my rear struts and Project 200 videos suggest using locktite on that exact bolt. One video he uses red and the other he uses blue. And some users on this forum have said don’t use any.

I’m thinking after reading this I’m gonna use at least blue.
I think the thru bolts are less likely to rattle out. But these short bolts and nuts in the suspensions are more at risk….

I did not do the install, and I would never suggest anyone use them. The front UCA top bolt came loose as well, so overall they (installer) suck. My guess is that they did not torque it down to spec, I would only use blue if it were me.

 

[BIC JET]

BTW, if anyone knows of a good suspension shop in Dallas that truly knows what they are doing, please pass along the info.

 

[BIC JET]

Something like this could help you get to the dealer without damaging things further.

View attachment 2707075

Edit: one last thought. If you do this don’t tighten them up a whole lot. Want to give room for the end to flex around some but not snap the zip ties.

Thanks for this great idea, I had it towed on a flat bed.