BP-51 Adjustment Tips?

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Joined
Feb 4, 2018
Threads
6
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300
Location
Apple Valley, CA
I bought my 2014 used with a BP-51 suspension. The previous owner gave me heavier springs for when he (now I) add a rear bumper. For now, I just had some Trekboxx drawers installed, which is about an additional 250 pounds plus probably another 100 pounds of stuff in them, minus the rear seats. The rear now sits lower (wish I’d measured) and wallows a bit. At this point, I’m at C2 R7or8. I’m thinking I need to dial up the compression some to firm it up. Any suggestions based on the added weight? I’m not sure I should go to the heavier springs yet.

Also, anyone know of an expert shop in SoCal who can help me dial in this suspension based on my current weight?
 
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What are your current rear springs?

That’d help. The ones on on it have a tag that says 2721 and the stiffer ones in the box have a tag that says 722.
 
I think even the 2722s won't be enough spring with that heavy ass drawer setup and a rear bumper. But I'm no expert on the OME springs.

As for BP settings, C2 is low. Bring that up to C4 (at least) and see how that feels. R6 or R7 is pretty nice for my vehicle.
 
No bumper yet so I’ll wait to see what this does. I may just swap the 2722s on to lift the rear back up. It feels low.
 
What's the rest of your load look like? Anything on the roof? You may be in 2723 territory.
 
I’ve got a small Maggiolina RTT and an an aluminum boxed awning, probably 160-175 pounds spread evenly front to back, but those are only on about 25% of the time so I need flexibility.
 
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The 2722s leveled it out and made the rear nice and solid. I’m happy with it and it drives great, better than before on the 2721s without the added weight in the rear. I suspect when I load it up for trip it will overload the springs a little but I can live with that considering it is my daily driver. I’ll test that when I load up for Overland Expo in a few days.
 
Figured I’d put this somewhere maybe more people would see it instead of my little build thread.

I always check the nitrogen charge pressure on Icon, King, Fox, BP51s when new or coming back from rebuild. Doesn’t matter what company makes them, they are never all perfectly the same pressures. And I’ll tell you that I can amsolutly tell the difference with even a 10 psi difference from left to right shocks.

With new BP-51s in the rear, they are supposed to be set to 290 psi. One was at 330, and the other way at 255. Would of made for a very sway like ride.

Know that there is no such thing as cruiser lean anymore, it’s just bad suspension setups. But... if you have a weird ride, not so much as a lean, but a weird ride when bouncing down the highway, this could be the cause.
 
Figured I’d put this somewhere maybe more people would see it instead of my little build thread.

I always check the nitrogen charge pressure on Icon, King, Fox, BP51s when new or coming back from rebuild. Doesn’t matter what company makes them, they are never all perfectly the same pressures. And I’ll tell you that I can amsolutly tell the difference with even a 10 psi difference from left to right shocks.

With new BP-51s in the rear, they are supposed to be set to 290 psi. One was at 330, and the other way at 255. Would of made for a very sway like ride.

Know that there is no such thing as cruiser lean anymore, it’s just bad suspension setups. But... if you have a weird ride, not so much as a lean, but a weird ride when bouncing down the highway, this could be the cause.

Yeah I'd like to check mine. I just don't have the gear.

The lean is a thing when it comes to improperly leveling KDSS. As a test, I didn't crack my valves when I put my BPs on and it was leaning, hard. Cracked the valves and the suspension visibly (and audibly) corrected itself, it was kinda cool. Then let the axles hang, closed valves and put it on the ground, all gravy. But beyond KDSS, any lean is certainly suspension setup related.
 
Yeah I'd like to check mine. I just don't have the gear.

The lean is a thing when it comes to improperly leveling KDSS. As a test, I didn't crack my valves when I put my BPs on and it was leaning, hard. Cracked the valves and the suspension visibly (and audibly) corrected itself, it was kinda cool. Then let the axles hang, closed valves and put it on the ground, all gravy. But beyond KDSS, any lean is certainly suspension setup related.
We’re saying the same things, KDSS doesn’t make the truck lean when the set screws are loosened prior to suspension work, and then tightened after 20 minutes of sitting flat on tires.

I guess what I was getting at was that there is no lean* on a 200.

*when work is done to standard
 
FWIW I just had my BP’s installed at Slee and they set the compression at 4 up front and 2 in the rear (I’m on 2722’s - I’ve got gear in the back all the time) and rebound at 7 up front and 5 in the back; and said that they believe this to be the optimal setting for this set up.

I’m not convinced this is the right setting. On trail this is pretty good, but on road it makes it bounce around like a 90’s caddy. I’m taking compression all around the truck up 2 points, see how that does.
 
FWIW I just had my BP’s installed at Slee and they set the compression at 4 up front and 2 in the rear (I’m on 2722’s - I’ve got gear in the back all the time) and rebound at 7 up front and 5 in the back; and said that they believe this to be the optimal setting for this set up.

I’m not convinced this is the right setting. On trail this is pretty good, but on road it makes it bounce around like a 90’s caddy. I’m taking compression all around the truck up 2 points, see how that does.
If it helps mine left Slee's at F C1R6 R C1R4 if I remember right on my 2721s. I believe I told them I cared more about broken pavement/washboard compliance than handling or load. I don't have a bunch of SAR or travel gear in the back, just recovery gear and occasionally golf clubs or horse tack. I've figured out I like my compression around 2 (experimented with both 3 and 4), but I still haven't pegged what my changes in rebound are actually doing (in theory the more you crank it up the faster it rebounds from compression). FWIW the longest I ran a setting was at C2R10 and C2R8. C3R9 and C3R7 didn't last long and neither did C4R8 and C4R6. If i remember right the manual has some notes on recommendations if you're towing or hauling heavy gear.
 
Figured I’d put this somewhere maybe more people would see it instead of my little build thread.

I always check the nitrogen charge pressure on Icon, King, Fox, BP51s when new or coming back from rebuild. Doesn’t matter what company makes them, they are never all perfectly the same pressures. And I’ll tell you that I can amsolutly tell the difference with even a 10 psi difference from left to right shocks.

With new BP-51s in the rear, they are supposed to be set to 290 psi. One was at 330, and the other way at 255. Would of made for a very sway like ride.

Know that there is no such thing as cruiser lean anymore, it’s just bad suspension setups. But... if you have a weird ride, not so much as a lean, but a weird ride when bouncing down the highway, this could be the cause

Can you check the PSI in each corner after install? I just had mine installed. Leans a bit. Cruiser Outfitters tells me it's likely just the KDSS that needs to reset itself, so just drive it for a while and it will work itself out. Rides really nice, but sometimes feels a little squirelly, Can't tell if that is because the fronts are set up for bumper and winch and I don't have those yet or something else. Installer put them on without adjusting anything, Looks like I have about an inch of threads at the top of the front spring. One thing that sucks about living in the boonies is trying to find someone with experience with installing something like this. The shocks were set at C4 / R8-10 when installed. It rode very bouncy but they also had the new tires aired up too much. Aired them down and adjusted shocks to C1-R6ish. Rides nicer now in stock form, maybe a little too soft.
 
Can you check the PSI in each corner after install? I just had mine installed. Leans a bit. Cruiser Outfitters tells me it's likely just the KDSS that needs to reset itself, so just drive it for a while and it will work itself out. Rides really nice, but sometimes feels a little squirelly, Can't tell if that is because the fronts are set up for bumper and winch and I don't have those yet or something else. Installer put them on without adjusting anything, Looks like I have about an inch of threads at the top of the front spring. One thing that sucks about living in the boonies is trying to find someone with experience with installing something like this. The shocks were set at C4 / R8-10 when installed. It rode very bouncy but they also had the new tires aired up too much. Aired them down and adjusted shocks to C1-R6ish. Rides nicer now in stock form, maybe a little too soft.
Yes, internal pressure can be measured when in the truck.
 
Anyone find a good comfortable setting for handling the typical speed bumps and potholes of city/highway driving?
 
Anyone find a good comfortable setting for handling the typical speed bumps and potholes of city/highway driving?
Honestly I jumped my compression up to 9 and rebound at 7 in the front and 9 and 8 in the rear, and it’s been awesome for 95% of what I do.
 
Honestly I jumped my compression up to 9 and rebound at 7 in the front and 9 and 8 in the rear, and it’s been awesome for 95% of what I do.
Thanks. Does your 200 have added weight(bumpers,etc.)? I am new to Bp-51, so I thought the higher number makes the vehicle stiffer or do I have it backwards. If stiffer, I would think the vehicle would have a harsher ride over speed bumps and potholes.
 
Thanks. Does your 200 have added weight(bumpers,etc.)? I am new to Bp-51, so I thought the higher number makes the vehicle stiffer or do I have it backwards.
Yep, I have drawers, with a full load in the rear, budbuilt sliders, and an ARB Bullbar with a winch. A higher number increases dampening - so a higher compression number adds resistance to the “in” stroke and a higher rebound number adds resistance to the “out” stroke.
 
Anyone find a good comfortable setting for handling the typical speed bumps and potholes of city/highway driving?

Wish I had a good answer for you, but I don't. I have fiddled with these things so much it has basically driven me insane. I can't find a happy medium. One setting is great for the city (bad city streets here), but terrible for the highway (very wobbly). Set it to a comfortable interstate cruising adjustment and it will rattle my teeth out on a simple fire road. I honestly hate these shocks.
 
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