Builds Bought another 60 - Red, 1981, built for wheelin'... (1 Viewer)

[orion]

As the title says...I bought another 60. Knew it needed some work, but it's taking more than I expected just to get it running. Figured I'd post a build thread (of sorts), in case you all like watching me waste $$$ and time on another old Toyota.

The backstory: Met the owner in 2015 at "Mardi Krawl" - He's a good friend of one of my friends (Ray Towner). I immediately liked the truck, it had character. It was a bit rusty, but was SOA, on 37's, had a big ridiculous front bumper, and seemed to just go anywhere.

Saw it again in 2016 (this time it was sporting military 36" tires on 16.5 wheels), still thought it was awesome:

...

So, we have a long running group text, and late last year, Ray mentioned the truck was for sale. Piqued my interest, but it was in Pensacola...and the last thing I need is another project.

But then the stars aligned - Earlier this month, Ray was driving West to East across Florida, and stopping by my place for a night...and offered to drag this 60 to my driveway. Talked with the owner a little on the phone, struck a deal, and 3 days later -->

...I had a non-running FJ60 with 6 extra wheels and tires sitting in my driveway:

What's my plan for it?

I want to go wheel the hard stuff, and I can't bring myself to beat on my White FJ60 any harder - I like it too much. So a "turn key" wheeler seemed like a great idea.

I'll get it running, fix it up a little, take it wheelin' next month with the Louisana Land Krewsers...then ??????????????

(to be continued, below...)

 

[orion]

After I took possession of it, I started tinkering. Got it to start and idle in the driveway for a minute or so before the ignition died (has no spark).

Working on that now. But, while idling...I discovered that the manifold gasket was blown out, and the cat is broken at the flange. 2 huge exhaust leaks. Muffler is hitting the traction bar, too.

Electric fuel pump was wired straight to the coil as well. Already redid that wiring w/ a relay.

So to address the big stuff...I'm pulling the manifold, replacing the gasket, finishing off a desmog, deleting the EGR and air injection tube, deleting the cat, and moving the muffler forward where the cat used to be.

I've already checked the wiring on the ignitor (good), replaced the coil, replaced the cap (was the wrong one anyway), and rotor...still no spark. So I ordered a GM HEI ignitor and 1/4-watt / 1k Ohm resistor to try the "ignitor replacement for cheapskates". If that doesn't work, then it's got to be the coil pickup (signal generator) in the distributor.

Oh, and I put on a gear reduction starter (as I mentioned before, the other one was iffy...worked only 80% of the time):

(turns over WAY faster now, too)

...

Good thing is...it's really low mileage! -->

haha

...

So, that's where I'm at now.

Carb off, manifold half off...making progress, half an hour at a time!

- Brian

 

[cruisermatt]

When’s it getting an LS? Three 60’s now, you’re addicted !! where’s the wheeling next month?
Want to trade that passenger fender for another red one that’s more, eh, dented ?

 

[kirvesmies]

cool score dude, to make that front bumper look perfect, find a set of 44's n get em under that beast

 

[orion]

When’s it getting an LS? Three 60’s now, you’re addicted !! where’s the wheeling next month?
Want to trade that passenger fender for another red one that’s more, eh, dented ?

No LS on this one! I've always wanted a 2F powered rig...

Forgot to mention, it's locked F&R (Spartan lockers).

The fenders are probably worse than yours. Frame is solid, but the body has rust.

The wheeling I was talking about is Mardi Krawl (guess it's technically in April - 2nd through the 5th, IIRC).

...

Made no progress tonight...hopefully I'll get the manifold(s) off tomorrow.

- Brian

 

[Spike Strip]

That's a hella bumper!

If the bastids in Los Angeles cut me off, I could push them into oncoming traffic with it!!

 

[Bama4door]

@orion Nice score Brian, look forward to checking it out at Mardi Krawl.
With the exhaust manifold gasket replacement, are you going to have the manifold decked flat at a machine shop or just run a double gasket and go with it? My 60 has a bad ex manifold leak as well and trying to decide how to tackle it.

Look forward to more updates, good luck!

 

[orion]

^^^ I'm gonna pull the manifold, assess with a straight edge, and go from there.

Planning on a single FelPro gasket, and maybe some filing on the washers to get it to seal evenly (if necessary).

See you in April - Hopefully this truck makes it there, too!

- Brian

 

[GLTHFJ60]

 

[orion]

Well, got a few things done...

Worked only a half day on Friday, and I snuck in a few hours under the hood. Got the manifold off, separated it, built a "heat riser block off plate" and replaced the 2 gaskets on that part. Also set the heat riser "flapper" in the exhaust to direct the gasses out at all times (don't see a need for that contraption here in FL).

I also pulled the air pump off the motor to assess its condition - Turns out, it had already been "de-vaned"...so I just put it back on.

Once the manifold was in one piece again, I replaced the 3 studs for the exhaust and then straightened it the best I could with a flat block and 220 grit sandpaper. Worked surprisingly well!

The 2 exhaust ports (top left of the pic above) still sit a little under the flat edge (on the bottom of the flange, mainly), but I think it'll work out (fingers crossed).

As of right now, the manifold is back on...PS pump is back on...and the carb goes on tonight.

Here's a shot of the old gasket (pretty obvious why it was leaking / broken in 2), and some of the crap that's NOT going back under the hood -->

...

Once it starts and idles again...then I will address the brakes, and take it for a spin. I am SURE there's more surprises waiting for me, and time is running short (5 weekends left until Mardi Krawl - But a couple of those weekends are already booked full). Yikes.

- Brian

 

[cruisermatt]

What pump is on it? Worth looking into a Saginaw or CBR and a cooler.for what you’re going to use it for

 

[orion]

What pump is on it? Worth looking into a Saginaw or CBR and a cooler for what you’re going to use it for

Stock pump. And while I agree that an upgrade would be a good idea, this one is being fixed up as "only do what's necessary".

I mean, anything I touch, I'm gonna do "right"...but if it doesn't need attention, it's not getting touched.

To be honest, I overpaid for this thing. The idea was cheap fun, but that's already out the window! $20 here, $50 there...and it's still not running. Plus 2 of the 37" Irok's ($400 each) are nearly worn out, so I have a decision to make there.

In the great words of my younger brother: "It's just money, you'll make more..."

- Brian

 

[Bama4door]

Stock pump. And while I agree that an upgrade would be a good idea, this one is being fixed up as "only do what's necessary".

I mean, anything I touch, I'm gonna do "right"...but if it doesn't need attention, it's not getting touched.

To be honest, I overpaid for this thing. The idea was cheap fun, but that's already out the window! $20 here, $50 there...and it's still not running. Plus 2 of the 37" Irok's ($400 each) are nearly worn out, so I have a decision to make there.

In the great words of my younger brother: "It's just money, you'll make more..."

- Brian

I’ve got 2 brand new 36x13.5x16 Iroks sitting in my shed I’ll make you a heck of a deal on...can bring them to MardiKrawl

 

[orion]

^^^ If I had a set of 16" wheels, I might take you up on that...but I only have 15x10's, and 16.5x11's (with military 37's on 'em).

- Brian

 

[Bama4door]

^^^ If I had a set of 16" wheels, I might take you up on that...but I only have 15x10's, and 16.5x11's (with military 37's on 'em).

- Brian

Darn, well just let me know if you change your mind!

 

[orion]

So, an update...and I could use some help.

For the update - Got the carb on, hooked the throttle linkage back up, reconnected some vacuum lines, capped a few others. Enough to try and start it.

Before doing that, I pulled the distributor. Wanted to test the signal generator, and make sure the vacuum advance moved freely (had some rust on it). All that checked out, after a little work.

Also pulled the coil bracket to triple check / clean up the grounds (still using the stock igniter).

This morning before work, I dropped the distributor back in...and turned the key.

To my surprise, it fired right up!

Wouldn't idle, but I knew there was still a vacuum leak (the gas filter is broken at the top). Restarted it several times, sounds healthy (when blipping the throttle).

I was happy, figured the "no spark" issue was bad grounding.

...

And here's where I need some help...--> Tonight, I went out to sort the vacuum leaks and make it idle...but once again, NO SPARK!

??? - I hate intermittent issues.

So....most likely cause (my best guess) is no +12v to the coil and igniter (on an intermittent basis). But, why?

Any other things I should be looking at? Anyone had a similar issue?

- Brian

 

[orion]

Allright, to expand on my post from last night:

It has started and run twice, with lots of tinkering in between.

I have checked the FSM procedures for testing the coil (and replaced it as well). No spark.

I have checked the FSM procedures for the coil/igniter +12v trigger wire. That checks out.

The signal generator in the distributor creates a signal as it turns, so I believe it's good.

Igniter works (well, based on the fact that it runs occasionally - They are either "good" or "bad", from what I've read). I did also replace the igniter with a GM one (from the FAQ, "igniter replacement for cheapskates"). Still no spark.

...

This morning, I hooked up the voltmeter to see what the coil/igniter trigger wire was reading during cranking. Key on, I see +12.6v. During cranking, that wire drops to 10.5-10.6v.

So, would a 2 volt drop during cranking make it so the igniter or coil wouldn't fire?

Next test will be to use a relay and run them directly from the battery (and trigger the relay from the current +12v switched connection / tan wire)...see if that changes anything.

Any other thoughts from you guys???

- Brian

 

[cruisermatt]

Any other thoughts from you guys???

Sounds like it wants a fuel injected V8 to me

 

[orion]

^^^ I would agree!!! The more time I spend on it, the more I lean that direction!

...but it's not in the cards for this one, sadly. So I have to figure this out (dammit) .

...

Went home to eat lunch, and decided to whip up a quick relay/harness to supply the coil and igniter with switched +12v before heading back to my office.

Used a 40 amp relay and 12 gauge wire directly off the battery...still no spark.

I have noticed that when it "works" (the 2 times it has run), the tach jumps as I try to start it. When it's not getting any spark, the tach needle just sits there, dead.

Not sure if that means the igniter isn't getting a signal from the distributor (so no tach readout)....or does that mean the igniter is dead (so, no tach readout).

- Brian

 

[orion]

Update: Today, I decided to just clean up under the hood, check vacuum lines, bench bleed the master and flush/bleed the brake lines, and added 5 gallons of non-ethanol gas. Trying to get it ready to drive, once it idles.

Late this afternoon I decided to turn it over, just to see...and whaddayouknow...it started right up !?!?!???

Ran a little rough, so I adjusted the idle speed and checked the timing...better now. Still a little lumpy, but this is the first it's run and idled in probably 3 years.

Not sure why it has spark all of the sudden, but I'm looking at it as a step forward!

We'll see what happens when I hit the key tomorrow.

...

EDIT #1 (3/1/2020): Didn't think this was worth a bump, so here's an edit. Tried it this this afternoon (Sunday), NO spark once again.

Decided to pull the igniter and coil again, see if any of the igniter wires had a break. That all looked good, so I pulled all the screws out of the case, sanded every point where the aluminum case met the steel bracket (there was noticeable corrosion there), and put it back together.

Reinstalled, turned the key...and it's never fired off faster! So this is either another false-positive, or the igniter ground was the issue all along.

I'm skeptical, because I've checked continuity to ground on the igniter, AND I added a ground to the case last week (with no change). But maybe it wasn't enough 'good' contact, and now it is (?). Guess I'll know when I try again tomorrow after work.

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EDIT #2 (Wednesday 3/4/2020): Well, as I was afraid...this was another false positive. I was waiting on a muffler, and it came in / got installed last night. Turned the key to hear how it sounded...no "tach jump", no start. NO SPARK. Sigh.

Picked up a used igniter from a member here, hopefully it's good, and solves this issue once and for all...!

Thanks for following along...

- Brian