Bolt on turbo kit

[LINUS]

@scottryana -

Any chance you maybe can edit you initial post as more of a FAQ / bullet-points type of thing above the original post/rolecall for buyers?

I attempted to wade through what's now 55+ pages for some basic info:

-Where's cost seeming to ballpark land / different configuaration kits/options
-What all 1FZ's are eligible (both or only OBD2)?
-Fuel octane minimums (lots of differences in different markets)/10% ethanol friendly?

I'm all in favor of turbos - but some bullet point FAQ's would really enable some easy decision making.

Just a suggestion, as much as I can appreciate getting a Joey/ @NLXTACY striptease / showing us his nipples - it's alot of discuss that I'm sure a reformat of the 1st post could save some repetitive Q's.

Please?

I sold my S/C kit, so I'm 100% 'in'.
It's gone, no parachute or joking around - If I force the manifold, it's with a snail.
Turbos > S/C's - provided we go into it 'eyes wide open'

Or am I too early & jumping to the 'moneyshot' when I should be happy like some here getting the @NLXTACY nipple-show / striptease?

Just asking as I like to make decisions - the road is nice but I like to 100% know my destination.

 

[scottryana]

Still a little early as there continues to be some questions about fabrication, etc. The other part that is in motion that might change things just a little is the 50 states emission compliant part. Joey has reached out to the group that has a lot of experience pushing them through so depending on what they come back with it might slightly change the final product. So don't want to put it out in writing until it is concrete.

Please?

I sold my S/C kit, so I'm 100% 'in'.
It's gone, no parachute or joking around - If I force the manifold, it's with a snail.
Turbos > S/C's - provided we go into it 'eyes wide open'

Or am I too early & jumping to the 'moneyshot' when I should be happy like some here getting the @NLXTACY nipple-show / striptease?

Just asking as I like to make decisions - the road is nice but I like to 100% know my destination.

 

[LINUS]

^^^ OK - that's reasonable.

I really just wondered as during the early 1/2 the thread I had my S/C kit yet - so no real 'skin in the game'.

Now it's a little different so I was hoping to chart my path forward & budget where $$ went - either towards the 80 or keep it in savings.

 

[FastCarGuy]

Would the nice pre-gapped turbo MR2 plug work Ryan? The one that CDan and I have been selling for years for the SC versions?

Or do you recommend something else? Supra plug?

I thought I had read on one of the turbo builds maybe @Heckraiser ? that this plug was recommended.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000GZA...olid=2OF84AR0NDW27&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

[scottryana]

You can use any plug in the NGK6-7-8/Denso20-22-24 range. It is not a make or break.

I thought I had read on one of the turbo builds maybe @Heckraiser ? that this plug was recommended.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000GZA...olid=2OF84AR0NDW27&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

[FastCarGuy]

Thanks Ryan

 

[Qball]

You can use any plug in the NGK6-7-8/Denso20-22-24 range. It is not a make or break.

So for NA engines we want hot plugs and FI engines we need cool plugs?

 

[scottryana]

There is a lot that goes into it. The engineers have to take compression, cylinder bore, fuel type, etc into play. But yes it is very common when you are taking an NA engine and making it FI that for moderate boost levels you get plugs that are 1 or 2 steps colder to make sure you wont have detonation issues because you’ll have more air in the same amount of space. An OEM plug is a heat range NGK5/Denso16

So for NA engines we want hot plugs and FI engines we need cool plugs?

 

[Qball]

There is a lot that goes into it. The engineers have to take compression, cylinder bore, fuel type, etc into play. But yes it is very common when you are taking an NA engine and making it FI that for moderate boost levels you get plugs that are 1 or 2 steps colder to make sure you wont have detonation issues because you’ll have more air in the same amount of space. An OEM plug is a heat range NGK5/Denso16

Thanks, now I am curious on which plug I’m running now. Might have to pop one out to see.

Edit: pretty sure I got the denso 16 iridium plug so I guess I'm good for a long while.

 

[landtank]

From my reading on the subject the material of the electrode is just as important as the heat range. While the harder materials last longer they don't cool as well. The cooling happens during the intake stroke and the more the transfer of heat from the electrode the better. Like in radiators copper is a great conductor of heat. I've been running NGK BKR7E-11 plugs for 2 years with out any problems in winter. They are 2 heat ranges cooler than stock and a whopping $1.98ea. You will need to change them out more frequently than Iridium plugs.

edit: fixed part number

 

[Mudder]

Even though I don't own an 80 I've started to really enjoy this thread. Lots of good info for going with FI on any engine IMO. I'm happy to see Wits End is making this kit!

 

[scottryana]

Sorry I am just responding to this. I can’t watch YouTube videos at work.

I just watched it and I need a little more lead in about what you’re asking? That NRE engine really has nothing to do with a 1FZ. He is running dual 2,000hp intercoolers with fresh cold water from the dyno. The CNC intake is $6,000. The exhaust was pretty common v-bands, but this turbo setup isn’t coming with a complete new exhaust because most people said they wanted the lowest price point.

The intercooler location will be between the turbo and throttle body above the valve cover and the heat exchanger will be passengers side grill in front of the A/C condenser.

I know we’re not building this, but it’s super clean and the exhaust removal was interesting. Where are you guys thinking to mount the intercooler?

 

[FastCarGuy]

From my reading on the subject the material of the electrode is just as important as the heat range. While the harder materials last longer they don't cool as well. The cooling happens during the intake stroke and the more the transfer of heat from the electrode the better. Like in radiators copper is a great conductor of heat. I've been running NGK BR7E-11 plugs for 2 years with out any problems in winter. They are 2 heat ranges cooler than stock and a whopping $1.98ea. You will need to change them out more frequently than Iridium plugs.

Rick, Can you check that number? I went on NGK's website and that number doesn't come up. Even tried NGK BK7E-11 and no results. Thanks

 

[landtank]

Sorry, BKR7E-11
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ngk-5791
NGK V-Power Spark Plugs BKR7E-11/5791

 

[FastCarGuy]

Sorry, BKR7E-11
NGK V-Power Spark Plugs BKR7E-11/5791

Thanks, I think the idea of copper cooling better has a lot of merit.

 

[ThomasMore66]

Did our thread die?

 

[NLXTACY]

Did our thread die?

Yes

 

[LCHardriver_02]

Did the effort die with it?

 

[NLXTACY]

Did the effort die with it?

Hell no

 

[LCHardriver_02]

Good... I've already gotten "wife approval". Just need $$.